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Hornbein (Thomas) Papers
MSS 0669
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Contributing Institution:
Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego
9500 Gilman Drive
La Jolla 92093-0175
Title: Thomas Hornbein Papers
Creator:
Hornbein, Thomas F., 1930-
Identifier/Call Number: MSS 0669
Physical Description:
24.4 Linear feet
(60 archives boxes and 1 card file box)
Physical Description:
.036 GB
of digital files
Date (inclusive): 1958-2003
Abstract: Papers of Thomas Hornbein, M.D., professor emeritus at the University of Washington and a prominent anesthesiologist, physiologist,
and mountaineer. The collection documents his scientific and exploratory achievements in the areas of high-altitude breathing
and the regulation of brain/acid balance, notably including materials from the American Mount Everest Expedition where Hornbein
and his climbing partner Willi Unsoeld reached the summit of Mount Everest via the West Ridge in 1963.
Languages:
English
.
Scope and Content of Collection
Papers of Thomas Hornbein, M.D., professor emeritus at the University of Washington and a prominent anesthesiologist, physiologist,
and mountaineer. The collection documents his scientific and exploratory achievements in the areas of high-altitude breathing
and the regulation of brain/acid balance, notably including materials from the American Mount Everest Expedition where Hornbein
and his climbing partner Willi Unsoeld reached the summit of Mount Everest via the West Ridge in 1963. Hornbein authored
Everest: The West Ridge (1965) and co-edited, with Robert Schoene,
High Altitude: An Exploration of Human Adaptation, and research files, manuscripts and drafts relating to these publications are in the collection. It also includes correspondence,
papers on other significant mountain expeditions in China and Pakistan, documentation of Hornbein's professional affiliations,
additional grant and research projects, and biographical materials. A modest portion of the collection relates to administrative
records during his chairmanship of the University of Washington, Department of Anesthesia and his commitment to resident education.
Arranged in fourteen series: 1) CORRESPONDENCE, 2) WRITINGS BY HORNBEIN, 3) AMERICAN MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION (1963), 4) OTHER
EXPEDITIONS, 5) LECTURES AND TALKS, 6) CONFERENCES AND SEMINARS, 7) SUBJECT FILES, 8) PROFESSIONAL AFFILIATIONS, 9) TEACHING
MATERIALS, 10) GRANT MATERIALS, 11) RESEARCH PROJECTS, 12) UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON - DEPARTMENT OF ANESTHESIA, 13) BIOGRAPHICAL
MATERIALS, and 14) AUDIOVISUAL MATERIALS.
Born in 1930 in St. Louis, Missouri, Thomas Hornbein developed an early interest in geology and mountain exploration. He
began his academic career as a geology major at the University of Colorado from (1948-1952) where he began teaching mountain
rescue and first aid courses, prompting an interest in medicine. He returned to his hometown in St. Louis, Missouri, to attend
medical school at Washington University School of Medicine (1952-1956) and then residency training and postdoctoral research
(1957-1961). He continued his interest in high altitude and physiology of breathing as a NIH-supported research fellow with
Dr. Albert Roos.
After holding an instructorship at Washington University, St. Louis, he served his military duty as a Lieutenant Commander
in the United States Navy stationed in San Diego Naval Hospital (1961-1963), during which time he requested an honorable discharge
to be a member of the American Mount Everest Expedition in 1963. With veteran mountaineer Willi Unsoeld, Hornbein reached
the summit of Mount Everest on May 22, 1963, to become the first climbers to ascend the mountain via the West Ridge and to
traverse down the other side. The team was presented with the National Geographic Society Hubbard Medal by President John
F. Kennedy in July 1963.
Upon returning from the Everest expedition, Hornbein assumed a position as Assistant Professor, joint appointment in the
Department of Anesthesiology and the Department of Physiology and Biophysics at the University of Washington in Seattle (1963).
His tenure at UW continued as Associate Professor (1967), Professor (1970-2002), Chairman of the Anesthesiology Department,
School of Medicine (1978-93), and Professor Emeritus (2002-present).
Dr. Hornbein's research has focused on the stimuli which prompt animals to breathe, particularly carotid body and central
chemosensors and the regulation of brain acid base balance. His studies have yielded over 100 journal articles and book chapters.
He also maintained editorial responsibilites for
High Altitude: An Exploration of Human Adaptation, co-edited with Robert Schoene, M.D., which included more than twenty contributing authors. His editorial responsibilities
have extended to the American Physiological Society, as an editor and book reviewer and to scholarly journals such as
Anesthesiology and the
Journal of Applied Physiology.
Dr. Hornbein's interest in expedition and mountaineering has led him to climbs in Karakoram in Pakistan and China. In addition
to his international expeditions, he has climbed Mount Rainier in Washington and Long's Peak in Colorado. The climb of Masherbrum
peak (1960) provided a unique experience for Hornbein, prompting him, with the support of the Maytag Company, to devise a
single-valved oxygen mask more effective for high altitude climbing. The concept mask was subsequently created for the Everest
climb in 1963.
Dr. Hornbein currently lives in Estes Park, Colorado and continues his interest in mountaineering and high altitude adaptation
medicine.
Publication rights are held by the creator of the collection.
Thomas Hornbein Papers, MSS 669. Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Library.
Acquired 2005.
COLLECTION STORED OFF-SITE. ALLOW ONE WEEK FOR RETRIEVAL OF MATERIALS.
Original sound and videorecordings in Series 14 are restricted. Viewing/listening copies may be available for researchers.
This collection has additional unprocessed materials not described in this finding aid. See the UC San Diego Library
catalog record to view the acquisition dates and extent of unprocessed additions.
Subjects and Indexing Terms
Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) -- Description and travel
Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) -- Discovery and exploration
Mountain sickness
Altitude, Influence of
Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) -- Environmental conditions
Hornbein, Thomas F., 1930- -- Archives
American Mount Everest Expedition (1963)