The ethno-geography of the Pomo and neighboring Indians


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Pomo.

The name Pomo, as the designation of a linguistic family,Gibbs (Schoolcraft, III, 112) gives Pomo as the name of a people living on the west branch of Russian river, but does not apply this or any other name to the Indians of the region as a whole. we owe to Stephen Powers.In his opening chapter on the Pomo, Powers says: "Under this name are included a great number of tribes or little bands—sometimes one in a valley, sometimes more—clustered in the region where the head-waters of the Eel and Russian rivers interlace, along the latter and around the estuaries of the coast. Below Calpella they do not call themselves Pomo, but their languages include them in this large family." (Tribes of Cal., p. 146.) He includes under the head of "true Pomo" also the people in the region about Cahto (ibid., p. 150) who have been shown by Professor P. E. Goddard to be of Athapascan stock (see note 97). He also includes the people in the Clear lake region except those about the lower end of Clear lake, namely, those about Lower and East lakes. He says: "In the Clear Lake Basin the Indians may be divided into two main bodies, those on the west side and those on the east side. On the west they are related in language slightly to the Pomo; on the east, equally slightly to the Patwin. . . . Big Valley and Kobb Valley were the principal abode of the western lacustrine tribes; Höschla Island and the narrow shore adjacent that of the eastern." It will be seen, therefore, that with the exception of including the people of Cahto and the few Wappo on the southern shore of Clear lake, and excluding the people living about East and Lower lakes, Powers' statements concerning the northern part of the territory occupied by the Pomo are approximately correct. The map accompanying his volume does not, however, follow the boundaries described in his text. Beginning on the coast at a point a short distance south of Ten-Mile river, the northern line of the Pomo area according to this map runs in a southeasterly direction in such a manner as to entirely omit any portion of the Eel river drainage from the Pomo area. Presumably in an endeavor to more nearly follow Powers' text, which not only includes certainly the people of Cahto valley among the Pomo, but also provisionally those living farther down the south fork of Eel river and along the coast about Usal creek, Powell in his map of the "Indian Linguistic families of America North of Mexico" shows two Pomo (Kulanapan) areas, a southern, substantially the same as that on the map accompanying Powers' volume, and a northern, much smaller and embracing the territory along the south fork of Eel river and about Usal creek, the two areas being separated by an unbroken Yuki territory stretching from the crest of the Coast range to the ocean. The work of Professor A. L. Kroeber shows that the Yuki held an area along the coast in this vicinity, but that it was not continuous with the main Yuki area in and about Round valley; and further, that Powell's Pomo (Kulanapan) area north of the Yuki is incorrect. Amer. Anthr., n. s., V, 729. However, as is outlined in the portion of this paper dealing with the Northeastern dialect, the Pomo did occupy a second area, but lying east instead of north of the main one. The word occurs in the Northern dialect of this stock with the general meaning of village, and as a rule follows the names of the various villages to form the complete place name, as canē'-kai pōmō, sweat-house-valley village.


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The word was also used as the name of one particular villageSee Pomo, p. 140. in Potter valley at the source of the east fork of Russian river, and is perpetuated in Pomo postoffice, situated only a short distance from the site of the old Indian village. When used with the signification of village in general, the word is perhaps a little more frequently pronounced pō'ma than pō'mō, as: canē'-kai pō'ma, sweat-house-valley village (this is also called by other informants canē'-kai pō'mō). However, neither pō'mō nor pō'ma can be asserted to be the only correct or standard pronunciation, for one is nearly as often used as the other. The first author to apply a name to any of the Indians forming part of this linguistic family was George Gibbs,Schoolcraft, III, 421. from whose Kulanapo Major J. W. Powell, following his principles of nomenclature, made the stock name Kulanapan.Indian Linguistic Families of America North of Mexico, 7th Ann. Rep., Bur. Amer. Ethn., 1885-86, p. 87. Kūla'napō, or more exactly kūLa'napō, was at the time of Gibbs' visit to the region the name given to one group of people living in Big valley on the southern shore of the main body of Clear lake. Neither Pomo nor Kulanapan, nor in fact any other name, is known to the Indians as a general name for themselves as a linguistic stock, since, as has already been pointed out, they recognize almost no linguistic or political affinities beyond immediately neighboring villages. Pomo is the term that has been most generally used by the whitesIn addition to Powers, who uses Pomo as the name of the stock and also as part of the names of his various divisions of it, as "Kula Kai Pomo, Ballo Kai Pomo," and so on, it has been used by Bancroft (Native Races, I, 362, 448, 449), Powell (Ind. Ling. Fam., p. 88), Kroeber (Univ. Cal. Publ., Am. Arch. Eth., II, 152 seq.), Mason (Aborig. Amer. Basketry, Rep. U. S. Nat. Mus. for 1902, p. 326 seq., 1904), Hudson (Overland Month., XXI, 561, XXX, 101), Purdy (Land of Sunshine, XV, 438), and others. In addition to its being the name commonly used in print it is also popularly used in speaking of this particular people, their customs, basketry, and so on. and is now in common use in both scientific and popular literature, and it seems advisable to retain it.

The territory of the Pomo is divided into two parts: a main area, situated between the ocean and the main Coast Range, and covering portions of Mendocino, Lake, and Sonoma counties; and a smaller, detached area, lying wholly within the drainage of the


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Sacramento river, and covering small portions of Colusa and Glenn counties.

Boundaries.The boundaries here given are those of the main Pomo area. For the boundaries of the isolated Northeastern area see the section devoted to the geography of this dialect.

Beginning on the coast at a point a short distance south of the southern end of Cleone beach, the boundary of the main Pomo area runs in an easterly direction, passes about three miles north of Sherwood station, and thence, crossing Outlet creek, runs to the top of the ridge separating the drainages of Outlet and Tomki creeks. North of this portion of the boundary lie the Coast Yuki, the Athapascan and a portion of the Yukian Huchnom areas. The boundary then runs in a general southeasterly direction along the ridge between Outlet and Tomki creeks to the western side of Potter valley. Here it takes again an easterly course and crosses the head of the valley to the ridge on the eastern side, along which it runs for a few miles; thence, turning in a northeasterly direction, it passes on the north side of Big Horse mountain; thence, turning in a southeasterly direction, it runs along the ridge separating the drainage of the Rice fork of South Eel river from that of Middle creek; thence along the high ridge east of Clear lake to Cache creek at a point about four miles from its source, the southern extremity of Lower lake, the southernmost arm of Clear lake. This portion of the boundary follows the general trend of the mountain ranges of the region, northwest and southeast, and separates the Pomo from Yuki and Wintun territory. From this point the line runs in a general west-southwesterly direction, following Cache creek, to the lake, and thence, for a distance of about eight miles, to a point on the summit of the range separating the drainage of Clear lake from that of Putah creek, near the headwaters of Cole creek. Here the line turns in a southerly direction and follows the range to Cobb mountain, where it again turns in a southwesterly direction, runs through the foot-hills to Russian river valley, and, crossing the river at a point about three miles up stream from the town of Geyserville, runs to the ridge between Dry creek and Russian river. Here it turns in a southeasterly


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direction, following this ridge, and recrosses the river at the great bend about five miles east of the town of Healdsburg; and thence, keeping the same direction, runs to a point between the headwaters of Santa Rosa and Sonoma creeks. East of this very irregular line are the territories of the northern Moquelumnan and the Yukian Wappo. From this point it runs in a general westerly direction along the water-shed which separates the drainage of Russian river from that of San Pablo bay, thus passing but a short distance north of the town of Cotati.The mountains in this part of the bay region are much lower than those farther north. The divide between the Russian river and San Pablo bay drainages is no more than a swell in the floor of a broad valley and is almost imperceptible as one passes over it. The line then runs through the low range on the western side of Santa Rosa valley to the headwaters of Salmon creek, which it follows down to the coast at a point about three miles north of Bodega Head. This portion of the boundary is all that can be considered as the true southern boundary of the Pomo area. The Southern and Western Moquelumnan areas adjoin the Pomo on the south. The western boundary is the shore-line of the ocean. All the territory included within the boundaries just outlined is Pomo, except the very small Clear Lake Wappo area which is entirely surrounded by Pomo territory.

To the north of this Pomo area are the Coast Yuki, Athapascan, Huchnom, and Yuki proper areas; on the east are the Southerly Wintun, the Northern Moquelumnan, and the Yukian Wappo areas; on the south the Southern and Western Moquelumnan areas; and on the west is the ocean.

Divisions.

The main Pomo area covers portions of the four natural divisions previously defined: the coast, the redwood belt, the valley, and the lake regions, each well marked off by the topography of the country. The particular portions of these four divisions occupied by the Pomo are as follows:

The coast division is chiefly confined to a very narrow strip of habitable land lying immediately adjacent to the shore-line


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of the ocean. This strip consists of a gently sloping shelf extending from the foothills to the shore-line, which, throughout almost its entire length, is formed by rocky cliffs. A dense redwood forest begins at the foothills and extends eastward; but the coastal shelf is only sparsely wooded, there being small groves of a species of pine, Pinus Muricata, where any timber appears. The food supply is essentially the same as that previously mentioned of the coast of the entire region. The open portions of this coast-shelf were formerly covered with native grasses and bulbous and seed plants, which furnished numerous vegetable foods; but the chief and most characteristic food of the people of this division was molluscs. Off the shore in many places are rocks which furnished molluscs of several sorts, especially mussels, and abalones, Haliotis. At the mouths of the many streams which empty into the ocean are sandy beaches which afforded favorable fishing places.

The valley division comprises: first, the entire drainage basin of Russian river, between eighty and ninety miles in length if measured in an air line, except a small area near Healdsburg and Geyserville on the lower course of the main stream and a still smaller area near Centerville at the source of the east fork, which were held respectively by the Wappo and the Huchnom or Tatu, both of Yuki stock; second, the upper drainage of Outlet creek, an affluent of South Eel river; and third, small valleys on Rancheria, Anderson, and Indian creeks, tributaries of Navarro river, as also numerous small valleys throughout the adjacent mountains. Within this area were many sparsely wooded valleys, both large and small, almost all of which were permanently inhabited. Here were to be found acorns, grass and other seeds, bulbs, and various other vegetable foods in abundance. The neighboring hills furnished game of all sorts, and at certain seasons there was an abundance of fish in the streams.

The lake region comprises the entire drainage basin of Clear lake except the southernmost extremity of Lower lake.According to current local terminology, four well marked divisions of Clear lake, separated one from another by straits, are known as Upper, Clear, East, and Lower lakes, and the name Clear lake is sometimes used of only one of these divisions, the largest and central, and sometimes, as by geographers, of the whole body. The Indians usually speak of the four separately. Clear lake is called by the people speaking the Eastern dialect, xa-bati'n, water (lake) big, and by those speaking the Southeastern dialect, xa-bīte'n, which is simply a dialectic variant of the Eastern name. The Northern Pomo generally speak of it as cō'-katū, east lake; but those of Scott's valley who owned its western shore usually called it xa'-matō, water big. Upper lake is quite universally called xa'-kaiyaū, lake head, this part of the lake being considered as the upper end and head of the entire body of water. East lake is called by the people of the Southeastern dialectic area e'lem-xawai. No name was obtained for Lower lake. On


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the shores of this large body of water were fertile, sparsely wooded areas producing an abundance of vegetable food, while the lake itself provided fish and water-birds, and the hills abounded in deer and other game animals. The village sites in this region were confined almost entirely to the immediate shores of the lake and to the islands in it.

In addition to these three inhabited areas, there is a fourth which was almost uninhabited except at certain seasons of the year, and then only to a very limited extent. This is the belt of dense redwood forest covering the coast mountains, and extending as an almost continuous forest from Mt. Tamalpais on the northern shore of San Francisco bay northward beyond the limits of the territory under consideration. This belt of timber, varying from a few miles in width at the mouth of Russian river to about twenty miles at Big river, forms a natural divide between the coast and valley regions. These redwood-covered mountains are quite steep, and in aboriginal times were traversable only with difficulty except along a few trails. There were many villages along the eastern border of the belt of timber and even some permanent villages in more favorable localities within it, as along Gualala river in the territory of the Southwestern Pomo. In a great measure, however, the whole belt was uninhabited except for camps in the small open valleys where hunting and food gathering parties remained for a short time at certain seasons.

While Pomo speaking six distinct dialects were distributed over these four topographical areas, it must be observed that the dialectic divisions did not at all conform to the topographical ones. The area of the Northern dialect extended over all four of the topographic divisions; the Central dialectic area included coast, redwood belt, and valley; the Southwestern area was confined


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to the redwood and coast divisions; the Southern area to the redwood and valley divisions; and the Eastern and Southeastern areas lay wholly within the lake region. On the other hand, the range of certain cultural features, which were directly dependent on physical environment, conformed very closely to the topographic divisions. The typical dwellings of the coast were conical in form and constructed of slabs of redwood bark; those in the valleys were usually rectangular or circular in ground plan with a frame of willow poles and thatch of grass; and those of the lake region were generally elliptical, with a pole frame and tule thatch. On the coast the chief means of travel by water was a raft of logs tied together with vines or other binding material; in the valleys no water travel was possible except on one or two lagoons; while in the lake region a serviceable canoe or balsa was made from the tule which is found there in great abundance. There are also certain slight differences in some of the other features of the material culture of the various parts of this region which serve to separate the divisions.

Sacramento Valley Pomo.

As this isolated area is occupied entirely by Pomo speaking the Northeastern dialect, the consideration of its boundaries and physical and other features will be taken up when discussing the Northeastern dialectic area.

Northern Dialect.

Boundaries.

Beginning on the coast at a point a short distance south of the southern end of Cleone beach, the boundary of the Northern Pomo area runs in an easterly direction, passes about three miles north of Sherwood station, and thence, crossing Outlet creek, runs to the top of the ridge separating the drainages of Outlet and Tomki creeks. From this point it runs in a southeasterly direction along this ridge to the western side of Potter valley on the headwaters of the east fork of Russian river. At this point it takes again an easterly course, crossing the head of the valley to the ridge on the eastern side, along which it runs


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for a few miles; thence, turning in a northeasterly direction, it passes on the north side of Big Horse mountain; thence, turning in a southeasterly direction, it runs for a short distance along the ridge separating the drainage of Rice fork of South Eel river from that of Middle creek. To this point the boundary of this dialect is also the inter-stock boundary and divides it from the Coast Yuki, Athapascan, Yukian Huchnom, and Yuki proper areas to the north. From here, taking a southerly course, the boundary passes along the ridge immediately west of Middle creek, passing but a short distance east of Tule lake; and thence along the ridge which lies west of Upper lake, the northernmost arm of Clear lake, to a point, known as Rocky point, on the western shore of the strait joining Upper lake with the main body of Clear lake. The people speaking the Northern dialect held possession of the shore of Clear lake from this point south nearly to the town of Lakeport, a distance of about five and one-half miles. From the town of Lakeport the line runs in a general southerly direction to the summit of the ridge south of the southern headwaters of Scott's creek, and thence a short distance in a westerly direction to the ridge separating the drainage of Clear lake from that of Russian river. This portion of the boundary separates the Northern and Eastern dialectic areas. From this point the boundary extends in a northwesterly direction along this ridge, passes over Red mountain, and thence probably to the ridge south of Mill creek, where it takes a westerly course down into Russian river valley.There is some doubt as to the exact position of the boundary in Ukiah valley. Some informants hold that the boundary runs across the valley as far south as Robertson creek, others that it follows down Robertson creek from the west, thence up Russian river to a point at or a little north of the confluence of Mill creek with it, where it turns eastward and runs to the summit of the range at the head of Mill creek and thence southward along this range. Others say that it runs directly across the valley at Doolan creek. Still others on the other hand hold that it crossed the valley north of the town of Ukiah, some placing it at Ackerman creek, while others place it even as far north as a point about half a mile north of the confluence of the east fork of Russian river with the main stream. In this connection it should be noted that all seem to agree that in the period shortly before the occupation of the country by the whites the region about Ukiah and northward was occupied by people speaking the Northern dialect. One informant from the yō'kaia rancheria (Central dialect) says that originally his people owned all the territory in Ukiah valley as far north as a point about half a mile north of the confluence of the east fork with the main branch of Russian river, or a distance of about five and a half miles north of the town of Ukiah. For some reason, which he did not know, the people of the Northern dialectic division had been allowed to occupy the portion of the valley about Ukiah and northward. When the informant was a small boy, probably about 1830 or 1835, there arose a difference between the Central yō'kaia and the kō'mlī, one of the Northern villages on the town site of Ukiah, which resulted in the yō'kaia driving the kō'mlī out. (The movements of these people are further detailed under the head of kō'mlī, p. 138.) An informant belonging to the Northern dialectic group says, on the other hand, that his people formerly held this valley down to about four miles south of Ukiah. A difference arose between them and the yō'kaia people which resulted in war and finally victory for the yō'kaia. Thereafter the people speaking the Northern dialect owned only to a line about two miles and a half south of Ukiah. Still other informants of the Eastern dialectic group as well as others of the Northern and Central groups place the boundary about at this point, and in view of the great diversity of opinion concerning it it seems best to place it provisionally as given on the accompanying map: as running across the valley along a line about two miles and a half south of Ukiah. It would seem that Powers also obtained information to the effect that the territory of the Central dialectic group extended into the northern part of Ukiah valley. In speaking of the "Yokaia," he says: "They occupied the fertile and picturesque valley of Russian river from a point a little below Calpello down to a point seven miles below Ukiah."—Tribes of Cal., p. 163. Still keeping its
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westerly course, it runs across the valley to the summit of the ridge on the west; thence, turning in a southeasterly direction, it follows the ridge to a point near the head of Feliz creek and about due east of Boonville. From here it runs for a very short distance in a southwesterly direction and then, turning due west, crosses Anderson valley about a mile and a half south of Boonville, and continuing in the same direction finally runs to the summit of the ridge immediately west of Rancheria creek. It then follows up this ridge, in a general northwesterly direction, to a point about opposite the confluence of the north fork of Navarro river with the main stream, where it turns in a northerly direction, crosses Navarro river only a short distance down stream from the confluence of the north fork with it, and runs to the ridge, known as Navarro ridge, which separates Navarro river from Salmon creek on the north. It then runs in a westerly direction down this ridge to the ocean. All of this portion of the boundary, which is very irregular, separates the Northern from the Central dialectic area. The western boundary of this dialectic area is the coast-line.

This very irregularly shaped area of the Northern dialect is contiguous on the north to the Coast Yuki, the Athapascan and


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the Yukian Huchnom areas. At the northeastern angle of the area, the territory of the Yuki proper adjoins it. On the east the territory of the Northern is adjacent to that of the Eastern Pomo, and on the south to that of the Central Pomo. On the west is the ocean. This is territorially the largest of the dialectic areas of the Pomo.

General Description.

All four of the physiographic divisions previously described, the coast, the redwood belt, the valley, and the lake region, are represented in the Northern dialectic area.

The whole coast territory of this dialectic area has an extent of about twenty miles, from Cleone beach, the northern limit of the dialect, to its southern boundary, the summit of the ridge separating Salmon creek from Navarro river. For the greater part of this distance a gently sloping shelf extends from the cliffs along the shore back to the timber line, a distance of from one-half to two miles. This coastal shelf is quite open, with here and there stretches of a species of pine, Pinus muricata, and other small trees and shrubs. Practically all the villages in this coast strip were near the shore.

The redwood belt stretches eastward from the coast, as a densely wooded area from ten to about twenty miles in width. There were, so far as can be ascertained, no permanent villages within this area, and it was traversable only with the greatest difficulty except along two or three trails.

The valley region in this Northern dialectic area is composed mainly of the territory drained by the upper course of Russian river, extending from a point probably about two and one-half miles south of the town of Ukiah, in Ukiah valley, northward to the sources of the river. This territory consists of several valleys separated from one another by canyons. From where the southern boundary of the dialect crosses the river, Ukiah valley extends up to the junction of the east fork of Russian river with the main stream. From this point up to the confluence of Cold creek with the east fork the valley is known as Coyote valley, and


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from the mouth of Cold creek up to the head of the east fork it is called Potter valley.Coyote valley, cō'dakai, does not begin exactly at the mouth of the east fork, but, for about a mile above, the stream flows in a canyon. The valley proper is about three miles in length, and narrows at Fort Brown into a canyon which extends up the river to the mouth of the small stream above Cold creek. The valley, called Potter valley, extending from this point northward almost to the headwaters of the east fork, is very fertile. The Indian name of this valley in general use is balō'-kai, oat valley, but djūhū'la-kai, and gūhū'la-xaxō, both signifying north valley, are used by the Northern and Eastern Pomo respectively, living to the southward and southeastward. At the extreme head of Potter valley is the only territory on the upper course of Russian river which was not occupied by the Pomo. This was the very small territory controlled by the Yukian Huchnom, also called Tatu, who had a single village at the extreme head of the valley. But, although the Pomo did not own this area or possess recognized rights upon it, the Huchnom nevertheless were on such friendly terms with them as in no way to restrict them in their use of it. It would seem that the Huchnom always affiliated with the Pomo rather than with the Yuki proper, to whom they are closely related linguistically, and that their general culture was nearer that of the Pomo than that of the Yuki.

The region from the town of Calpella up to the headwaters of the main stream is known as Redwood valley.Strictly speaking, Redwood valley is located as above stated. Locally, however, the term is made to include the narrow valley which extends from a short distance south of the confluence of Mill creek with Forsythe creek southward to the confluence of the two branches of the river at a point a short distance north of the town of Calpella; as also the very low flat-topped divide separating the two valleys thus formed on the branches of the river. On Forsythe creek is situated a small valley, called Walker valley, which name is also given to the postoffice and old stage station there. In addition to the valleys on Russian river, there are three others in this area: Little Lake valley,Little Lake or Willits valley, called by the Indians mto'm-kai or bito'm-kai, is situated on the headwaters of Outlet creek. It was first mentioned by Gibbs (Schoolcraft, III, 115), who says: "This valley, which the Indians called Betumki, or big plains, is eight or ten miles long and four or five wide." Later (p. 634) he spells the name "Betumke." Various other orthographies have been used by other writers. Powers (Tribes of Cal., p. 155) speaks of the people of this valley as "the Mi-toam' Kai Po-mo (Wooded Valley People)," which name is also used by Powell (op. cit., p. 88). Bancroft (Native Races, I, 362, 448) calls them "Matomey Ki Pomos" and "Betumkes," and Alley, Bowen and Company (op. cit., p. 167), upon the authority of the late Mr. A. E. Sherwood, use "Ma-tom-kai" as the name of the valley, translating it "big valley." The town of Willits is situated in the upper or southern end of the valley, and Little lake lies at the northern end. The valley itself is large and very fertile, and formerly supported a considerable Indian population. This valley should not be confused with that lying along what is now called Tomki creek, which is to the east. Tomki comes from the Pomo name for Little Lake valley, but has been applied by the whites to an entirely different valley and creek. located on Outlet creek, a


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tributary of South Eel river, Sherwood valley,Along its middle course Outlet creek is joined from the west by Curley Cow creek. This stream waters Sherwood valley, a fertile valley about three miles in length and from a quarter to a half mile in width. The old stage station at Sherwood is situated about half a mile from the lower or eastern end of the valley and about the same distance north of the present railway station at Sherwood. located on Curley Cow creek, a tributary of Outlet creek, and Anderson valley, on the headwaters of Navarro river.One of the headwaters of Navarro river is Anderson creek along which lies Anderson valley, which is about eight miles in length and varies in width up to a mile. It lies along the extreme eastern border of the redwood belt. Anderson valley is one of the extreme southern portions of the Northern dialectic area.

In the lake region the Pomo of the Northern dialect occupied a limited area, consisting of the valley about Tule lake,Tule lake, the Eastern Pomo name of which according to one informant is naū'axai, is a body of shallow water about two miles long by three-quarters of a mile wide, lying northwest of Upper lake, the northern arm of Clear lake, and connected with it by a creek navigable to a canoe for a short distance from the latter. This stream is a continuation of Scott's creek, which empties into Tule lake on its western margin. On the northern and western shores of Tule lake, and extending northwestward for about five miles along an affluent stream, is a narrow valley known as Bachelor valley. The name xaiya'ū xaxō, from xaiya'ū, head, and xaxō, valley, is the name given by the people speaking the Eastern Pomo dialect to the entire area about Upper and Tule lakes, though the name xaiya'ū or kaiya'ū has been incorrectly given by some informants as the name of a village in this vicinity, as it is also by Slocum, Bowen and Company, who, in their History of Napa and Lake Counties (Lake County, p. 34), give the following information on the authority of Augustine, a captain of one of the divisions of the people in Big valley at the southern end of the main body of Clear lake, from notes made in 1880 or 1881: "The Ki-ou tribe had their rancheria at the west end of Tule lake, and at the time of the coming of the white settlers they numbered one hundred and twenty. The name of their chief is (or was) Ba-cool-ah. . . . The tribe now numbers only about forty." Also (p. 37) a translation of the name is given, as follows: "Ki-ou, head of the Lake people." The Northern Pomo name of this locality is cīna'l-kai, which has the same signification as xaiya'u-xaxō, and a Wintun informant from Cache creek gave masū't as the name of Bachelor valley. To the east of Tule lake is a low divide through which Scott's creek flows to Upper lake. This divide formed the boundary between the Northern and Eastern dialectic areas, except at the point where the creek cuts through, at which point the territory of the Northern dialect extended into the valley of Upper lake, the old village of maiyī' marking its eastern limit. the greater part of the western shore of the main body of Clear lake, and Scott's valleyScott's valley, lying to the west of the low range of hills along the western shore of Clear lake, is a long narrow valley which extends from a point on Scott's creek about a mile southwest of the town of Lakeport to the southern end of Blue lakes and thence to Tule lake. The widest and most fertile part of the valley is its upper half. The people inhabiting this valley held possession of the low range separating it from Clear lake, and also of a section of the lake-shore from Rocky point, on the western shore of the channel connecting the main body of Clear lake with Upper lake, southward nearly to the town of Lakeport. At the extreme head of Scott's creek, and at a point about two miles north of Red mountain, is a small valley called Eight-mile valley. The portion of the lake-shore above mentioned and Eight-mile valley are always given by the Indians as part of the territory belonging to the Scott's valley people. Blue lakes above mentioned are three small, but very deep, lakes situated in a narrow steep-walled canyon extending northwestward from the main canyon of Scott's creek, and draining into that stream. The lowest of the three lakes is called by the whites Wambold's lake, and the upper two, which are connected by a comparatively broad channel, have received the name Twin lakes. The Indians, however, name each separately, as follows: Wambold's lake is called xa'-silīū or xala'-xatū, clam lake; the lower of the Twin lakes is called dilē'-xa, middle water, and the upper has received the name xa'-cīnal, water (lake) head, which is a term applied with equal propriety to the head of any lake, as Upper lake, which is regarded as the head of Clear lake. The canyon in which Blue lakes are situated is not spacious enough to have accommodated a very large population, but the abundance of fish and water birds in and about these lakes would naturally have attracted at least some Indians had it not been for the fear of a fabulous monster which inhabited them. Several myths are told about these lakes and their much dreaded monster. A summary of one of these follows: There was once a village near the junction of the outlet of Blue lakes with Scott's creek, Blue lakes being then only a spring. At this village lived a virgin who busied herself making a large and extraordinarily elaborate burden basket, but who kept her labor secret from all except her brother, who lived in an adjoining house. He assisted her by procuring quail plumes and woodpecker scalps, and by making shell beads to be used on the basket. When the basket was yet far from completion a male child was born to the virgin. She secretly hid him away, but her brother heard him cry, for he kept crying constantly, and finally came with bow and arrows to kill him, believing that he was not a human being. The brother finally found the child, whose name is given as Tsada't, but before he could destroy him, Tsada't spoke up and told him that he was not a human being and must not be killed. He then instructed the brother and sister to place him in the spring, first putting a red feathered basket on his head, a net about his body, a bead belt about his waist, strings of beads about his neck, and a feather belt about his head. Having done as Tsada't had directed, they were then told to return on the following day with the unfinished basket, some arrows and other articles, which were also to be placed in the water. Before dismissing them, however, Tsada't gave the brother a medicine song which would preserve them from destruction when visiting the spring, and told them that they must upon no condition look back when leaving the spring. Upon returning the next morning they found that the spring had enlarged and covered a considerable area. Tsada't had grown to be a huge monster, called Bagi'l, and lay always in the shallow water in plain view. The brother and sister followed the instructions given them and placed the basket and four arrows in the lakes. Madū'mda, the chief deity, came by the lakes next morning and told Bagi'l that to lie there in sight of passers-by would be unsafe for human beings, and then gave him songs which should serve to enlarge the lakes, saying that he must enlarge the lakes and then build a comfortable abode for himself back among the roots by the shore, and thus keep out of sight. Accordingly Bagi'l sang the songs and the water rose till it nearly reached the summit of the ridge on the north at the head of the canyon; but Madū'mda again appeared and this time stopped Bagi'l from increasing the water further. Bagi'l then sang and deepened the lakes, made them very deep, and the water settled to its present level. People were then instructed never to go near the lakes and never to eat any fish or game from them. Thereafter when it became necessary to pass near these lakes the Indians avoided looking toward the lakes for fear that either the basket or Bagi'l might rise to the surface of the water and thus cause serious illness. The same practice is followed by the older people at present. Notwithstanding the presence of this monster and the dread of the vicinity, it is considered to be a most excellent medicine (charm) if a person is able to swim across one of these lakes, which is a possible feat provided he knows the proper songs. Should he fail, however, death is the certain result. In connection with this Indian account it is interesting to note the recent finding by Professor R. S. Holway (Science n. s. XXVI, 382, 1907) of a former connection of the waters of Blue lakes and Scott's creek with those of Russian river. According to Professor Holway these waters formerly drained into Russian river by way of Cold creek but were in comparatively recent prehistoric time diverted to the Clear lake drainage by a landslide which formed the ridge mentioned in the myth and which now stands about one hundred and sixty feet above the lovel of the lakes themselves. lying along Scott's creek.


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The food supply of the various parts of this dialectic area is typical of the entire region under consideration, and, as has been previously stated, is about as follows: The coast people speaking this dialect depended chiefly upon the ocean for their food supply, fish and molluscs forming two of the most important articles of food. The vegetable food came from the seeds, roots and bulbs of the grasses and flowering and bulbous plants of the coastal shelf and from the oaks of the adjacent mountains. The chief food of the people in the valley region was the acorn, while other vegetable foods were provided by the wild grasses and bulbous plants. Game was abundant in the mountains, and fish were plentiful in the streams at certain seasons of the year. The


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food supply of the people of the lake region was similar to that of the valley people, except that to it was added the constant supply of fish and water birds found at the lakes.

Coast Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

In the coast region of the Northern dialectic area there are but three sites that are at present inhabited by Indians: one at the town of Fort Bragg, another at Noyo, and the third at Little River.

Fort Bragg, just outside the northwestern limit of the town of Fort Bragg and about half a mile from the shore-line of the


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ocean. There were formerly five houses here and perhaps twenty people, most of whom came from the old villages in Little Lake and Sherwood valleys. During 1903, however, the majority of these people moved to the site of the old Noyo mill, leaving but two families at the Fort Bragg village. The inhabitants of this village as well as those of the other two along the coast above mentioned have made this vicinity their home almost constantly since the discontinuance of the Mendocino reservation in 1867.

Noyo, on the site of the old saw-mill on the north bank of Noyo river near its mouth. These people have only occupied this place since 1903, having come here from Fort Bragg. There are here about fifteen persons.

Little River, on a low ridge just south of Little river, about fourteen miles south of Fort Bragg. This village contains two houses and about six inhabitants who came originally from Sherwood and Little Lake valleys.

Old Village Sites.The original inhabitants of this portion of the coast region have almost entirely disappeared and it has been possible to obtain accurate information concerning only the more important and well known of the old village sites.

kadī'ū, on the north bank of Noyo riverThe Indian name of Noyo river was tce'mli-bida, while nō'yō-bida is the name which was applied to Pudding creek, north of Fort Bragg. The late Mr. A. E. Sherwood mentions the same names, applying them to the same streams. He says: "`Noy-o' was the name applied by the Indians to what is now known as Pudding creek, just north of Fort Bragg, while `Chem-ne-be-dah' was the name of the stream now called Noyo river." Alley, Bowen and Company, op. cit., p. 168. and close to the cliffs at the shore-line. This site is only a short distance from the southern limit of the old Mendocino reservation and is very near the site of the headquarters of the reservation. Captain H. L. Ford, who was the first agent at and virtually established the Mendocino reservation, says that at the time of his arrival in 1856 there were two or three hundred Indians who claimed this vicinity as their home; "they were called Chebal-na-Poma, Chedil-na-Poma, and Camebell-Poma."Mendocino War, op. cit., p. 15. He does not state just where these people lived, but it is probable that these are the names of three different villages on or near the land covered by


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the reservation which extended from Hare river south of Fort Bragg northward to a small stream about a mile north of Tenmile river, a total distance of about eleven miles.

tca'dam or tcatam, on top of the ridge just south of Caspar creek and at a distance of about a mile from the shore-line. This name was also applied to Caspar creek.

dītc!ō'lel, at a point about a quarter of a mile west of the Pine Grove brewery, which is located about a mile and a half south of the town of Caspar. At or very near this village site there is an old shell-heap about three feet in thickness which covers an area of about eight hundred square feet. This heap is located about four hundred yards back from the shore-line and is composed of the shells of the various edible molluscs which are found so abundantly along this part of the coast, as also a certain amount of such other kitchen refuse as is usually found in such mounds.

bu'ldam, from bul, the name of a certain large flat rock off shore near the mouth of Big river where mussels and other molluscs were formerly abundant, and dam, trail (a trail from the interior came to the coast at the mouth of Big river),According to the late Mr. A. E. Sherwood (Alley, Bowen and Company, op. cit., p. 168), "Big river was called Bool-dam, on account of the blow-holes around the bay at its mouth." Powers (Tribes of Cal., p. 155) and Powell (op. cit., p. 88) spell the name "bul-dam." at a point about three-quarters of a mile back from the shore-line, and in the edge of the redwood forest on the ridge just north of Big river. Some Indians say that this village was located at the sand flat at the northern end of the Big river bridge, which is also correct, so far as can be learned from white sources. According to the statements made by one of the earliest white settlers on this section of the coast, he having arrived here in 1854, there were Indians living at the site in the edge of the redwoods, as above located, at that date. So far as can be determined, this site was almost continuously inhabited up to 1866, when the Indians moved down to the sand flats at the north end of the Big river bridge at the request of Colonel Lightner, who at that time acquired title to the land upon which the old village of bu'ldam was situated. They remained at this new site only about two years. The name bu'ldam was applied to Big river itself as


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well as to the old village above mentioned. There was a trail leading from this point up the river and over the mountains to Walker and Little Lake valleys, and thence to the other interior valleys. This was one of a very few trails connecting the coast with the interior and it would seem that it was more used than most of the others. Big river has a good sand beach at its mouth and tide-water extends for about four miles up the river, both of which circumstances, together with the abundant supply of molluscs along the rocky shore-line in the vicinity, made this a desirable site for a permanent village.

kala'ili, on what is known as the "old" Stevens property just northeast of the present blacksmith shop in the town of Little River. According to Indian informants, this is the site of an old village which was inhabited permanently before the coming of white settlers. Since the coming of white settlers this place was resorted to, particularly during the winter, for the purposes of fishing and gathering molluscs, but it seems not to have been permanently inhabited during more recent times. The same is true of another site which is located just to the south of this and on the banks of the river itself. The present mill pond covers this site. Off shore in this vicinity there are "mussel rocks" of considerable extent and at present the Indians from the interior valleys frequently camp here during the summer and gather quantities of mussels and other molluscs for food. According to some informants, the chief trail leading from Ukiah valley to the coast ended at Little River, and was one of the earliest routes through the mountains.

kaba'tōda, on the top of the high, narrow ridge separating Albion river from Salmon creek, and indefinitely located at a distance of one or two miles from the ocean.

Old Camp Sites.

gaiyeti'l, near the cliffs at the shore-line about three-quarters of a mile north of the mouth of Pudding creek.

kabē'tsitū, at a point about one hundred yards south of gaiyeti'l, above located.

nō'yō, on the north bank of Pudding creek near its mouth. The creek itself was called nō'yō-bida by the Indians, but after


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the coming of the whites the name was transferred to the larger stream south of Fort Bragg which now bears the name of Noyo river. The Indian name of Noyo river is tce'mli-bida.

ya'kale, from ya, wind, and kale', tree (this name is derived from some trees which, like many of the trees in exposed places immediately along this part of the coast, have their tops bent far to one side and partly killed by the hard winds so common to this region), near the foot of what is known as Bald hill, and at a point about a mile north of Pudding creek and a mile and a half back from the shore-line of the ocean.

djo'mō, from ājom, a species of pine, and mō, hole, a short distance back from the cliff which rises abruptly from the south bank of Pudding creek. It is but a short distance also from the cliff which forms the shore-line of the ocean at this point.

tō'ldam, from tōl, hollow, and dam, trail, at the edge of the redwood forest about a mile from the ocean up the ridge between Noyo river and Hare river, called by the Indians nō'-bida, dust creek.

Sites Not Mentioned by Indians.

There are several shell-heaps along this section of the coast which mark the sites, usually, of camps where the Indians of former times assembled at certain seasons of the year for the purpose of gathering, eating, and drying molluscs and sea-weed. One of these shell-heaps is situated near the cliffs just west of the present Indian village at the northwestern limits of the town of Fort Bragg. Extending for several hundred yards along the cliffs are to be found scattered deposits of shells and camp debris usually not more than two feet in thickness in the deepest part. It is not known just when these deposits were formed, but it seems probable from their present condition that they were made during the time of the Mendocino reservation, of which this land formed a part. At a point about a mile and a half north of Big river, and about five hundred yards from the cliffs along the shore-line, are the remains of another shell-heap which bears evidence of a large deposit, but the cultivation of the field in which it is located has so obliterated the original limits that it is impossible to form any exact idea as to its former dimensions.


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Valley Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

Asylum Rancheria, Guidiville, or Mushtown, about one-half mile south of the Mendocino State Hospital, and about three miles south-southeast of the town of Ukiah, on a tract of five acres owned by the Indians themselves. This village consists of ten houses and about thirty inhabitants, of whom the majority came originally from the old villages in the northern part of Ukiah valley, but some from Redwood, Coyote and Potter valleys. There is here a school maintained under the auspices of the Roman Catholic church.

Pinoleville, near the foot-hills on the south bank of Ackerman creek and about a mile and a half northwest of the town of Ukiah. This village is located on a tract of one hundred and fifty acres of land belonging to the Indians and comprises thirty houses and about one hundred and ten inhabitants. These people are mostly from the old villages in Potter valley, some having moved here within very recent years. A school is maintained at this village under the auspices of the Methodist Episcopal church.

Coyote Valley Rancheria, on the east bank of the east fork of Russian river at a point about two and a half miles from its confluence with the main stream. This village is located on land belonging to the Indians themselves and consists of six houses and about thirty inhabitants, who are mostly from the old villages in Redwood valley. There are a few from Potter valley and two or three individuals from the Clear lake region.

Potter Valley Rancheria, on the western side of Potter valley at a point about a mile south of the town of Centerville. This village is situated on the south bank of a small creek and consists of eleven houses and about fifty inhabitants. Here are to be found individuals from nearly all the former villages of this valley, including the Yukian Huchnom whose village was in the northern extremity of the valley. The inhabitants of the Potter Valley Rancheria are but a remnant of the very numerous former population of the valley. Some of the elder informants say they can remember a time when all the old villages in the valley as well as the two in the hills to the east were simultaneously inhabited,


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a fact which would give this region a very large population. There is at this village a school maintained by the Methodist Episcopal church.

Redwood Valley Rancheria, in Redwood valley on the eastern edge of the mesa lying west of the main branch of Russian river. It is about three miles north of the town of Calpella and contains four houses and about twelve inhabitants.

Sherwood Valley Rancheria, at the lower or eastern end of Sherwood valley in the extreme northern part of this dialectic area. It is situated on the northern bank of the creek and consists of eight houses and about thirty-five inhabitants. About a mile and a half south of this village there is a family of six individuals, who should be included in the enumeration as they belong properly to this village. This would make the total population about forty.See note 167, concerning early estimates of the population of this region.

There is no regular modern village in Anderson valley, but there are two families of Indians living there, one on the ranch of Mr. Thomas Rawles at a point about a mile west-southwest of Boonville, and the other just across the creek to the west of the town. There are in these two families about eight people all told.

Old Village Sites.

ka'tilī, about two miles and a quarter southeast of the town of Ukiah and about half a mile east of Russian river. The residence of the superintendent of the Mendocino State Hospital, situated on the north bank of Mill creek and only a short distance from the stream, now stands on this site. As before stated, there is some doubt as to who owned the territory in this immediate vicinity, and it is claimed by some informants that the people who occupied this village spoke the Northern dialect; others say they spoke the Central dialect, and still others say that the language used by them was a mixture of the two, due to the fact, so they say, that the people of this village affiliated and intermarried with those of the Northern and Central villages near by. One informant stated that this village was the temporary home of the people formerly living at the old village of


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kō'mlī on the town site of Ukiah after the war between them and the people of the yō'kaia village of cō'kadjal. He also stated that this site was known by the name of kō'mlī at that time.

smē'wakapda, from smē'wa, wolf, ka, water ?, and pda, creek, at the junction of the two branches of Mill creek at a point about a mile east of the Mendocino State Hospital. According to one informant there was a village here, the inhabitants of which spoke entirely the Central dialect, but according to others there was no village here, this name being that of Mill creek as a whole. The name given is in the Central dialect.

tcīdōtē'ya, near a spring about four hundred yards southeast of the court-house square in the town of Ukiah. The residence of Mr. B. B. Fox now stands on this site.

kō'mlī, from kōm, soda spring, and lī, there, or kūbū' kbūl-kēya in the Central dialect, just north of the limits of the town of Ukiah and half a mile north of the court-house square. At this place there is a mesa half a mile or more wide extending from the river bottom to the foot-hills. On the slope from the edge of this mesa to the river bottom is a large spring which the Indians say was in former times noted for the excellence of its water and its constant flow. The village was located just west of this spring, from which the inhabitants obtained their water supply. This village seems to have been one of the more important villages in this valley and is often mentioned by the old Indians. At a time not very much antedating the arrival of white settlers in the valley, and within the memory of living individuals, the original inhabitants of this village vacated it and moved to Scott's valley, where they lived with the Scott's valley people until scattered by the coming of the whites. Informants agree that there was a migration of the people of this village and that it was due to trouble between them and their neighbors, some saying that the trouble was between them and their neighbors on the north and others that the yō'kaia to the south were concerned. One informant from the yō'kaia rancheria (Central dialect) says that originally his own people held possession of all the territory in Ukiah valley north to a point about half a mile north of the confluence of the east fork of Russian river with the main stream, but for some reason people speaking the


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Northern dialect were allowed to settle in this part of the valley and established the village of kō'mlī. When the informant was a boy, probably about 1830 or 1835, there arose a difference between the people of kō'mlī and the Central village of cō'kadjal concerning the hunting and fishing rights in the northern part of the valley, and Kalanō'ī, the captain of the village of cō'kadjal, led a party against his northern neighbors and drove them from the valley. They went across the mountains to Scott's valley just west of Clear lake, and there took refuge with their friends, and the captain of the village in Scott's valley finally purchased from the people of cō'kadjal freedom from molestation of the refugees. This informant says, somewhat inconsistently, also that before finally going to Scott's valley these people first moved to ka'tilī, which he called kō'mlī, where they remained for a year or two. They then went to Eight-mile valley, a short distance northeast of Red mountain, where they established the village of kō'mlī, remaining here a little longer than at ka'tilī, and finally went on down into Scott's valley, where they remained permanently. Another, and more probable account, is that given by a very old woman whose former home was in Potter valley. According to this informant, the difficulty between the people of kō'mlī and those of cō'kadjal arose at a considerably earlier date than that above mentioned and was due to the fact that there was living at kō'mlī a powerful doctor, sīkū'tsha by name, to whose poison the death of a yō'kaia man was attributed. Some of the yō'kaia from cō'kadjal attempted to kill sīkū'tsha, but he was able to escape and get over to friends at Upper lake. There was no regular war made by the yō'kaia people upon those of kō'mlī, but the people of kō'mlī preferred to leave their village and avoid trouble, so they went over to Upper lake by way of Coyote valley, Blue lakes, and Bachelor valley, and eventually found their way to Scott's valley. To explain the presence of a camp called kō'mlī in Eight-mile valley, as above mentioned, is the fact that there is here a large soda spring from which it is but natural that the valley and the camp should take their name.

kabēgi'lnal, on the north bank of Sulphur creek, called xa-tō't-bida, water-rotten-creek, at its confluence with Russian river at a point about a mile northeast of the town of Ukiah.


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cō'katcal, near the south bank of Hensley creek at a point about three-quarters of a mile west of its confluence with Russian river. This site lies just west of the county road and is about two miles north of the town of Ukiah.

cima'kaū or cima'kawī, at the east end of the bridge across the main branch of Russian river at a point a short distance up stream from the confluence of the east fork with it.

catca'mkaū, tca'mkawī, or bō'maa, on the north bank of the east fork of Russian river at a point about two and a half miles up stream from its confluence with the main stream. This site is located about an eighth of a mile down stream from the site where Cleveland's flour mill formerly stood. From all that can be learned this was formerly a very large village, and the principal one in Coyote valley.

matū'kū, on the south bank of Cold creek, called matū'kū-bida, at a point about a mile up stream from its confluence with the east fork of Russian river. This site is located about two hundred yards south of the ranch house on the Hopper sheep ranch.

tsaka'mō, from tsaka', smoke or native tobacco, and mō, hole, near the northern end of the bridge across Cold creek on the road leading from Fort Brown to Centerville in Potter valley. While this particular part of the country is, on the whole, by no means so desirable for habitation as the larger valleys above and below, it appears that this village was a large and important one in former times. It is mentioned in connection with catca'mkaū in the myths of the region. According to one of these myths the village of matū'kū, about a mile up Cold creek, was called tsaka'mō.

katca'bida, from katca', arrow-head or obsidian, and bida', creek, in the extreme southern end of Potter valley and on the east bank of the east fork of Russian river. There is also a village one name of which is katca'bida in the extreme northern end of Redwood valley on the main stream of Russian river.

kala'lpicūl, on what is known as the John Mawhinney ranch at a point about a mile south of the post office of Pomo.

pō'mō, on the east bank of Russian river at a point a short distance south of the post office at Pomo, in the southern end of Potter valley. The present Potter valley flour mill stands on


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this site. This village bears the same name as the linguistic familySee Pomo, p. 118. to which its people belong. The first mention of a village by the name of Pomo is that found in Gibbs' Journal.Schoolcraft, III, 112. He gives Pomo as the name of one of the peoples treated with by Colonel McKee, and in speaking of their language he says: "The Ma-su-ta-kea and Pomo, living farther up the west branch of the river, use the same as the Shanel-kaya of the east branch." Thus he located the village in or about Redwood valley. However, no village of this name has been found in this valley and it seems probable that the location given by him is due to incorrect information gained in the hurried journey through the region. McKeeMinutes kept by John McKee, secretary of the expedition from Sonoma, through northern California, Senate Ex. Doc., Spec. Sess., 32d Cong., 1853, Doc. 4, p. 144. speaks of "the Pomas," which undoubtedly refers to the people of this same village. PowersOverland Monthly, IX, 504. speaks of the "Pome Pomos," and HittellHistory of California, I, 730. mentions the "Pone Pomos." To these various spellings might also be added Powers' "Poam Pomo,"Tribes of California, p. 156. which he gives upon the authority of a white informant as the equivalent in scope of the "Ballo-Kai Pomo"; at the same time stating that he was unable to get a verification of the term among the Indians. It has, however, been taken up by other writers and used as a name for the Potter valley people as a whole, and is entitled to mention also on that account.

kalē'sīma, kale'lsema, or xale'sema, on the east bank of Russian river at a point about a mile east-northeast of the present Potter Valley rancheria.

se'dam, on the east bank of Russian river just east of the town of Centerville. This is the site of one of the largest of the old villages in Potter valley. Captain FordRept. Comm. Ind. Aff., 1856, p. 257. may have referred either to the people of this village or to those of cane'l when he said: "The Salan Pomas are a tribe of Indians inhabiting a valley called Potter's Valley."

cane'l, or see'l, on the east bank of Russian river at a point


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about a mile north of the town of Centerville. It was located on the ranch of Mr. George Bush, formerly owned by Mr. William Potter, for whom Potter valley was named. This was one of the most important villages in Potter valley and is said by some informants to have contained the largest population of any.According to one informant, the collective name bō'tel was applied to the village of cane'l and the camps nō'badō, sū'būtcemal and tūlimhō' collectively. According to another informant, see'l was on the west side of the river and a village entirely separate from cane'l. According to this informant also there was still another village called a'mdala just north of see'l. Corroborations of these statements were, however, not obtained. One of the villages near Hopland in the Central dialectic area is also called cane'l. The first mention of the Potter valley cane'l was by GibbsOp. cit., p. 109. in his record of "the tribes present" at a council with Colonel McKee on the southern shore of Clear lake. Among others he mentions "the Shanel-kaya and Bedah-marek, living in a valley situated to the north of it (i.e., Clear lake), and on the east fork of Russian river." The "Bedah-marek" here referred to were also mentioned by McKeeSenate Ex. Doc., Spec. Sess., 32nd Cong., 1853, Doc. 4, p. 136. as "Me-dama-rec." The name has as yet not been found as the name of a village, or of any division. BancroftNative Races, I, 452. also mentions the first of these names upon the authority of Gibbs. The people of cane'l or of sedam may be the ones referred to by Captain FordRept. Comm. Ind. Aff., 1856, p. 257. as "Salan Pomas."

ya'mō, ya'ma, or ya'mū, at the foot of the mountains at the northern end of Potter valley. This site is very near the northern boundary of the main Pomo area, being situated at the base of a small mountain called ya'-danō, wind-mountain, over which the boundary line between the Pomo and Yukian Huchnom runs.

mōtī'tca, mūtī'tca, or mitī'tca, near the foot-hills on the western side of Potter valley, and at a point about two and a half miles northwest of the town of Centerville.

tsi'mpal, near the foot-hills on the western side of the northern end of Potter valley. According to one informant, there was


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no village at this place, but the name was given to a mountain at which flint of different colors was obtained.

sō'tca, or bata' 'ka, in the foot-hills on the western side of Potter valley, and near its northern extremity. It was but a short distance northwest of tsi'mpal. According to one informant these two names, sō'tca and bata' 'ka, were applied to two different places about four hundred yards apart, the latter of which only was inhabited.

canē'kai, from canē', sweat-house, and kai, valley, in a small valley of approximately circular form near the summit of Buckner mountain. It was located about six miles east of the town of Centerville in Potter valley. Buckner creek heads on the north side of this mountain and one of the tributaries of Middle creek heads on the south. According to some informants the name sweat-house valley was given to this valley because of its likeness to the pit of a sudatory. The people of the "Cha-net-kai tribe" referred to by McKeeSenate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 136. are probably the same as those of this village.

tcō'mtcadīla, on the mesa just south of the town of Calpella, and at a distance of about two miles up the main stream of Russian river from the confluence of the east fork with it.See note 167, concerning early estimates of the population of this region. The people of this village, called "Choam Cha-di-la Po-mo," are referred to by PowersOp. cit., p. 155. and, probably upon his authority, by Powell,Op. cit., p. 88. and BancroftNative Races, I, 362, 448.. Powers translates the name "Pitch Pine People." The captain of this village at the time of the arrival of white settlers in the region was kalpe'la. His name was given to his people, and was applied by the whites in a general way to all of the Indians living in Redwood valley. It has been used with this broad significance by some early writers. The name still survives in Calpella, a town at the lower end of Redwood valley. The late Mr. A. E. Sherwood is authority for the statement that "Cal-pa-lau" signifies "mussel or shell-fish bearer."Hist. of Mendocino, op. cit., p. 167.


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masū't, masū', or cīyō'l, the last of which names signifies shady, on the western affluent of Russian river at a point about three miles northwest of the town of Calpella. Some informants claim that this site is located on the west bank and some that it is on the east bank of this stream, and from all that can be learned it seems that both statements are correct, for it appears that both banks of this stream were inhabited at different times. The more recently occupied site was on the west bank, or rather in what is now the western part of the stream bed, as the river has shifted toward the west and has washed nearly all of this site away. Upon abandoning this site these people went to tcō'mtcadīla just south of Calpella. The people of this village are probably the ones referred to by GibbsSchoolcraft, III, 112. as "Masu-ta-kaya," one of the "bands" which made a treaty with Colonel McKee at the Feliz ranch near Hopland. The same people were also mentioned by McKeeSenate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 144. as "Maj-su-ta-ki-as."

kabēla'l, or kati'l, on the mesa west of the main branch of Russian river, and at a point about three and one-half miles north of the town of Calpella. This village was located near the ranch house on the Berry Wright ranch. The name kati'l seems to have been given to this site at the time when the former inhabitants of Walker valley settled here after the coming of white settlers.

katca'bida, from katca', obsidian or arrow-head, and bida, creek, or da'picū, at the southern foot of Redwood mountain (capa'lawel) at the extreme head of Redwood valley. One of the villages in Potter valley on the east fork of Russian river was also called katca'bida. In his list of the various "bands" of the Pomo, Powers says: "In Redwood cañon, the Da-pi-shul Pomo (dapishul means `high sun'; that is, a cold place because of the depth of the cañon)."Tribes of California, p. 155. The reference may be to this village.

ka'tcake, on the southwest bank of Mill creek at a point about two and one-half miles up stream from its confluence with Forsythe creek.

kō'bida, or kaba'tbadō, from kaba't, madroña, and badō', flat,


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on the east bank of Forsythe creek at a point a short distance south of the former stage station in Walker valley. According to one informant this was the last village occupied in this valley, the people being taken from here to the Round Valley reservation.

bita'danek, from bita', bear, and dane'k, throw out, on the southwest bank of Forsythe creek at a point about two miles up stream from the former stage station in Walker valley.

caba'kana, from caba', hazel, and kana, ?, at the extreme head of Forsythe creek. According to one informant who formerly lived in this valley, this site was the first one in this vicinity inhabited. From here the people moved to bita'danek, and then to kō'bida, from where they were taken to the Round Valley reservation. The information concerning the succession of occupation of these sites may be correct, but it is unlikely that the first site occupied is definitely known to individuals now living.

tanakō'm, from tana', hand, and kōm, bog, at a point in the mountains about four and one-half miles south-southeast of the town of Willits, which is situated in the southern end of Little Lake valley on Outlet creek.

kacaida'mal, on the headwaters of Outlet creek at a point about six miles southeast of the town of Willits.

ko'tsīyū, in the mountains at a point probably about two and one-half miles south of the town of Willits.

behē'pata, from behe, pepperwood nuts, and patan, to pound or grind, at a point probably about two miles and a quarter southeast of the town of Willits and about the same distance north of the old village of tanakō'm. This site was very indefinitely located by informants.

kabēca'l, at a point about a mile south-southeast of the town of Willits, and near the foot-hills on the western side of the valley. This village was located on the ranch now owned by Mr. Martin Baechtel.

kataka'l, from kata', hollow, and kal, mussel, at a point about half a mile south of the town of Willits.

mītō'ma, or cīi'ncilmal, from cīi'n, grape vine, cilin, hanging up, and mal, year, on the top of a knoll in the southwestern part of the town of Willits. This knoll rises from the general level


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in such a manner as to stand apart from the adjacent foot-hills to the west of it and forms a prominent point.

tsamō'mda, in the edge of the redwood belt at a point about three miles west of the town of Willits.In speaking of Little Lake valley, to which he gives the name "Betumki," Gibbs, in Schoolcraft, III, 116, says: "The names of the bands in this valley were the Naboh, Chow-e-shak, Chau-te-uh, Ba-kow-a, and Sa-mun-da. One or two others were said to be absent. The numbers given by those who came in amounted in all to 127 men, 147 women, and 106 children. The total, including those absent, probably does not exceed 450 to 475." Chau-te-uh, Ba-kow-a, and Sa-mun-da are probably cōtsiyū, baka'ū (which is also called baka'ūha), and tsamō'mda respectively, as located on the accompanying map. M'Kee (Senate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 146) records the same names with a slightly different orthography, as follows: "Nah-toh, Chow-e-chak, Shor-te-u, Ba-cow-a, and Sa-mun-da."

hōdūdū'kawe, from hodūdūdū', milk snake, and kawe', to build, indefinitely located at a point about four and a half miles east-southeast of the town of Willits.

cō'tsīū, from cō, east, and tsī'ū, corner, in the hills at a point about four miles east of the town of Willits. This site is located on a small affluent of Outlet creek.In speaking of Little Lake valley, to which he gives the name "Betumki," Gibbs, in Schoolcraft, III, 116, says: "The names of the bands in this valley were the Naboh, Chow-e-shak, Chau-te-uh, Ba-kow-a, and Sa-mun-da. One or two others were said to be absent. The numbers given by those who came in amounted in all to 127 men, 147 women, and 106 children. The total, including those absent, probably does not exceed 450 to 475." Chau-te-uh, Ba-kow-a, and Sa-mun-da are probably cōtsiyū, baka'ū (which is also called baka'ūha), and tsamō'mda respectively, as located on the accompanying map. M'Kee (Senate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 146) records the same names with a slightly different orthography, as follows: "Nah-toh, Chow-e-chak, Shor-te-u, Ba-cow-a, and Sa-mun-da."

tsaka', near the site of the Northwestern Redwood Company's saw-mill at a point about two miles northwest of the town of Willits.

yamī', on the southern shore of Little lake.

kabē'yō, from kabē', rock, and yō, under, indefinitely located at a point probably about three miles and a half northeast of Willits.

baka'ū or baka'ūha, from baka'ū, dam, and ha, mouth, on the northern shore of Little lake.In speaking of Little Lake valley, to which he gives the name "Betumki," Gibbs, in Schoolcraft, III, 116, says: "The names of the bands in this valley were the Naboh, Chow-e-shak, Chau-te-uh, Ba-kow-a, and Sa-mun-da. One or two others were said to be absent. The numbers given by those who came in amounted in all to 127 men, 147 women, and 106 children. The total, including those absent, probably does not exceed 450 to 475." Chau-te-uh, Ba-kow-a, and Sa-mun-da are probably cōtsiyū, baka'ū (which is also called baka'ūha), and tsamō'mda respectively, as located on the accompanying map. M'Kee (Senate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 146) records the same names with a slightly different orthography, as follows: "Nah-toh, Chow-e-chak, Shor-te-u, Ba-cow-a, and Sa-mun-da."

cakō'kai, from cakō', willow, and kai, valley, in the field just south of what is known as Rowe's station, an old stage station, at a point about three and a half miles southeast of Sherwood station.

kūla'kai, from kūla, probably the yellow water-lily, Nymphaea polysepala, and kai, valley, at a point about two miles south of Sherwood station, and on the southwestern shore of the small wet-weather lake on the Russell ranch.None of the early writers give the names of any of the villages in or about Sherwood valley. Powers (Tribes of Cal., p. 155) in giving the names of what he calls "bands" of the Pomo mentions "the Ku-la Kai Po-mo" and says: "kula is the name of a kind of fruit, like little pump-kins, growing in water, as the Indians describe it." This is undoubtedly the fruit of the yellow water-lily above mentioned. The Northern and Eastern dialectic names of this plant are kūla' and kūLa' respectively. However, it seems as probable that Powers' kula really signifies north, which is djūhū'la, gūhū'la, tcū'la and tūhū'l in the various Pomo dialects. At present the valley is called by some of the people to the south djūhū'lakai or north valley. Its name is given by the late Mr. A. E. Sherwood (Alley, Bowen and Company, op. cit., p. 167) as "Che-hul-i-kai signifying north valley." Following Powers, Powell (op. cit., p. 88) also uses "Kula Kai Pomo" as the name for the people of this valley. Powers (ibid) further says that the Sherwood valley people are called "Shi-bal-ni Pomo (Neighbor People)" by the people of Cahto valley. In corroboration of this name it should be mentioned that a large hill which projects some distance into the valley from its southwestern side is called caba'l-danō by the Indians now living in Sherwood valley. The former residence of Mr. A. E. Sherwood is at the foot of this hill. The name, spelled "Shebalne," is also used by Bancroft (Native Races, I, 362, 448).


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kabē'danō, from kabē', rock, and danō', mountain, at the ranch house on the Russell ranch on the northeastern shore of the small wet-weather lake about two miles south-southeast of Sherwood station.

tī'kai, from tī, string, and kai, valley, on the ridge just west of Outlet creek at a point about three miles east-southeast of Sherwood station.

būta'ka, bear, at a point about two and a half miles east of Sherwood station.

cane'mka, from cane', sweat-house, and mûka', scorched, near the west bank of Outlet creek at a point about two miles north-east of Sherwood station. This site was rather indefinitely located but it is probably on the north bank of Curley Cow creek, the small stream which flows through Sherwood valley proper.

so'satca, from so'sa, red ant, and tca, house, on the north bank of Curley Cow creek at a point about half a mile down stream from the present Sherwood valley village.

tsi'kinīdanō, from tsi'kinī, owl, and danō', mountain, at the Sherwood valley creamery about a mile and a quarter east of Sherwood station.

bō'camkūtci, from bō'cam, a sort of seed, and kū'tci, moss, at a point about half a mile east-northeast of Sherwood station, and near where the Sherwood Inn now stands.

ma'tcata, from ma, ground, and tcata', between, at a point about half a mile northeast of Sherwood station. There is now a single Indian family living on this site, but there are plainly


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visible here a number of old pits which mark the sites of sweathouses.

kabō'tsīū, from kabō', clover, and tsī'ū, corner, at a point about half a mile northwest of Sherwood station.

kaa'ika, from kaa'i, crow, and ka, water, at a point about three-quarters of a mile southeast of Sherwood station. According to other informants this site is located a short distance north of the residence of Mr. Louis Billodeaux in Sherwood valley proper, which would place it somewhere in the vicinity of the old village of bikeka'.

tanaci'l, from tana', hand, and cil, hang down, immediately south-southwest of Sherwood station.

behe'mkalūm, from behe', pepperwood, and kalū'm, gone, at a point about a mile and a half southwest of Sherwood station.

matō', big, just southwest of the residence of the late Mr. A. E. Sherwood, about a mile and a half west-northwest of Sherwood station. According to information obtained from Mr. Sherwood in 1903 there was at this site at the time of his arrival in 1853 a village of seventy-five or more inhabitants. This village remained for many years, and the pit of the old dance-house is at present plainly visible.

kama'dōkai, from ka, water, madō', cold, and kai, valley, at the residence of Mr. Louis Billodeaux, on the north side of Sherwood valley proper and at a point about a mile and a half north-west of Sherwood station. According to information obtained from the late Mr. A. E. Sherwood, who moved to Sherwood valley in 1853, there is a very large deep spring, called ka'madō, a short distance east of the old village of matō'.

bikeka', from bike', ground squirrel, and ka, water, in the hills north of Sherwood valley at a point about a quarter of a mile north of the residence of Mr. Louis Billodeaux and about a mile and three-quarters north-northwest of Sherwood station. According to some informants there was a village called kaa'ika in this immediate vicinity.

ka'ikitsil, from kai, valley, and kitsi'l, end, at the head of Sherwood valley proper, and about two and three-quarters miles northwest of Sherwood station.

kabē'dile, from kabē, rock, and dile', between or among, in the


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mountains at the extreme head of Sherwood valley and about three and one-half miles northwest of Sherwood station.

tca'ida, at a point about two and one-half miles north of the confluence of the north fork of Navarro river with the main stream, and about a mile northwest of the bridge across the north fork on the road from Boonville to Navarro.

tcū'lgo, from tcūhū'l or tcū'la, north, and gago', valley on the north bank of the north fork of Navarro river at a point about three miles from its confluence with the main stream. This site is but a short distance east of the bridge across the north fork on the road from Boonville to Navarro.

hū'da, on the north bank of the north fork of Navarro river at a point about three-quarters of a mile up stream from the site of the old village of tcū'lgo above mentioned.

djō'mī, at a point about a mile and a quarter northwest of Christine. This site is just east of a very small pond which was miraculously created by Coyote because the old Frog woman who had possession of the spring about one hundred yards north of this place would give him no water. This happened after the destruction of the surface of the earth by fire.

ka'tūūlī, from ka, water, tūū'l, old, and lī, place, on a small flat about fifty yards south of the store at Christine. This was formerly an important village, some of the larger ceremonials being held here.

kabē'djal, from kabē', rock, and dja, house, near the northeast bank of Navarro river at a point about two and one-half miles down stream from the confluence of Indian creek with it. This site is just up stream from the point where the road from Boonville to Greenwood crosses Navarro river, and takes its name from a large rock, the form of which resembles a house. One end of the wagon bridge rests upon this rock. Under the rock there was a large hole and pool of water which was noted as a good fishing place in the salmon season.

ta'bate, from ta, sand, and bate, big, near the northeast bank of Navarro river on the Irish brothers' ranch, at a point about two miles west of Philo. This name was used also as the name of the whole valley about Philo, while Navarro river, or at least the part along which this valley lies, is called ta'bate-bida by


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the people living in this vicinity. Navarro river is also called nōba'da-bida, from nō, ashes, ba, tail, da, on, and bida, creek or river, which is the source of the present name, Navarro. Upon the authority of Mr. A. E. Sherwood, Alley, Bowen and CompanyOp. cit., p. 168. give "Taa-bo-tah" as the name of Anderson valley, and Gibbs mentions "Tabahtea"See note 192. as the name of a people living in this region.

cō'mda, on the east bank of Indian creek at a point about a half mile south-southeast of Philo and a mile northwest of the confluence of Indian creek with Navarro river.

nō'pik, from nō, ashes, and pik, mellow, at the site of the old Anderson valley flour mill. By one informant this is said to have been occupied so long ago that there is no record of the people who lived here.

cū'naūbasatnapotai, from cūnaū, pretty (?), basa't, forks, napo'tai, old village, just back on the slope of the foot-hills east of Anderson creek at a point about three miles down stream from Boonville.

kabē'ela, from kabē', rock, and e'la, to throw and miss, on the north bank of Anderson creek at a point about two and one-half miles down stream from the town of Boonville.

le'mkolil, on the northeast bank of Anderson creek at a point about a mile down stream from Boonville. According to one informant the people of this village together with all those living farther down stream were called pda'-tēya, signifying creek those people, while those in the villages farther up stream were called danō'-kēya, signifying mountains there, both of which terms he gave in the Central dialect. He said further that the whole valley itself was called pda'-tēya-ma, or land of the pda'-tēya, and that the name applied to the people of Anderson valley as a whole was pda'tēya.

bū'lawil, near the south bank of Anderson creek at a point about a mile and a quarter southeast of the town of Boonville. The barn on the property of Mrs. Jane Burger stands on this site.

[kale'msūpda], Central dialect name, from kale', tree, msū,


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burned (?), and pda, creek, on the north bank of Anderson creek at a point about two miles and a half east-southeast of the town of Boonville. It appears that as a village this was a small place, there being only a few people who made this their permanent home, but others came here for short periods, particularly during the fishing and food gathering seasons.

Uninhabited Modern Village Sites.

cīyō'l, shady, on the north bank of Ackerman creek at its confluence with Russian river. One of the hop fields on the Bartlett ranch now covers this site. According to one informant also this village was located on the east bank of Russian river on the Howard ranch almost directly opposite the site as above given.

cō'dakai, in the southwestern end of Coyote valley at a point about a mile and a half up the east fork of Russian river from its confluence with the main stream. This village was occupied by the Yukian Huchnom for about five years after they left mūlha'l in Redwood valley.See mūlha'l; also note 296. It was not, however, exclusively a Huchnom village, as there were Pomo here also. The names given to Coyote valley by the Northern and Eastern Pomo respectively are cō'dakai and tca'mkawī. PowersOp. cit., p. 155. in speaking of what he calls "many little bands in diverse valleys" gives as one of them "the Sho-do-Kai Pomo" and locates them in Coyote valley. PowellOp. cit., p. 89. gives the same, probably on the authority of Powers.

bakō'dō, at the head of the small canyon in which the present Potter Valley village is situated and at a point about a mile and a half west of it.

mūlha'l, a Huchnom village in Redwood valley at a point on the east bank of Russian river about four and one-half miles north of the town of Calpella.See mūlha'l; also note 296.

On the property belonging to Mrs. Susan Ornbaun about a mile north of the town of Boonville in Anderson valley is the site of an uninhabited modern village, the name of which could not be learned.


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bō'gagōwī, from bō, west, gagō, valley, and wī or ī, place, at a point about a mile and a half west of Boonville. This site has not been inhabited for twenty or twenty-five years.

Old Camp Sites.

sē'satil, on the McClure ranch north of the Mendocino State Hospital, and at a point about two miles southeast of the town of Ukiah and half a mile east of Russian river. There are differences of opinion concerning this site. Some informants claim that it was only a food gathering place, while others say that it was a camp, and still others that it was a village. It seems most probable, however, that it was a camp, although there may have been people living here permanently at some time.

ka"lem, just east of what is known as the Forks saloon at a point about a mile west of the confluence of the east fork of Russian river with the main stream. The camp called by one informant ca'malda and located in this immediate vicinity may have been this same site.

nō'badō,See note 129. in Potter valley on the east fork of Russian river at a point on the west bank of the river about a quarter of a mile west of the old village of cane'l. This camp was used by the people of cane'l.nō'badō and sū'būtcemal are situated so close together that it has been necessary to indicate the two on the map by a single symbol.

sū'būtcemal,See note 129. at a point about three hundred yards up stream from nō'badō. This was also a camp of the cane'l people.nō'badō and sū'būtcemal are situated so close together that it has been necessary to indicate the two on the map by a single symbol.

tūlimhō',See note 129. at a point about half a mile west of sū'būtcemal. This also was a camp of the cane'l people.

pō'danō, probably from pō, red, and danō, mountain, at a point about three and one-half miles west of the old stage station in Walker valley on Forsythe creek.

ta"skōl or tca"skōl, from tca, human being, and skōl, laughing (?), on the ridge west of Outlet creek at a point near the confluence of Curley Cow creek with it, and about two miles east-northeast of Sherwood station.

tcaha'wī, a camp for fishing on the northeastern bank of Navarro river at a point about a mile and a half up stream from Christine.


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ma'kalamī, probably from maka'la, rabbit, and mī, place, on the ridge west of Navarro river at a point probably about two miles west of the old village of ta'bate or four miles west of Philo.

kaci'mdalaū, on the John Gough place at a point about two miles southeast of Philo.

tsawa'takka, from tsawa'tak, a small species of frog, and ka, water, indefinitely located on the ridge between Anderson and Rancheria creeks at a point probably about a mile south of their junction.

tce'ckalel, on the ridge between Anderson and Rancheria creeks at a point about three miles and a quarter west of Boonville. This camp was chiefly for acorn gathering.

sa'latcada, on the ridge between Anderson and Rancheria creeks at a point about two miles and a quarter west of Boonville. This name is said to be derived from sa'la, redwood bark, and tca'da or dja'da, run away (?), the connection being with a localization of a myth which is common throughout the Pomo region. A summary of the myth is as follows: There were people living at lemkō'lil who ate the flesh of a monster and were transformed into deer. Of all the people living at lemkō'lil there were but two, a brother and a sister, who did not eat the flesh of the monster, and they alone remained human. These two went out to sa'latcada to gather acorns and finally lived there as husband and wife. Their children were called tale"hmō, and were wild people who ate flesh and other foods raw, and took up their abode on a mountain called kanō'-sama, mountain-mahogany beneath or at the edge of, in the range of mountains immediately west of Rancheria creek. They never associated with the ordinary people of the region, but on the other hand they seem to have done no particular harm to them. They often set fire to the timber and brush in the surrounding mountains, and they made a practice of capturing any man who hunted deer at an improper time and giving him training which tended to correct his methods of hunting.

mapū'īka, from ma, ground, pū'ī, anything greasy, sweet, or otherwise pleasing to the taste, and ka, water, at Boonville.

kawī'namamī, from kawī'na, turtle, ma, ground, and mī, place, near the south bank of Anderson creek at a point about two miles east-southeast of Boonville. This was a food gathering camp.


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kca'kaleyō, from kca, white oak (?), kale', tree, and yō, under, near the northern head of Anderson creek at a point probably about five miles nearly due east of Boonville. This was a food gathering camp.

maca'l, on the western slope near the summit of the range separating the Russian river and Navarro river drainages at a point probably about four and a quarter miles east-northeast of Boonville. This site is located about two miles due east of the ranch house on the Singley ranch, which is on a small stream called Soda creek at a point about two miles northeast of Boonville.

mō'wībida, from mō. hole. wī, place, and bida', creek, just west of the summit of the range separating the Russian river and Navarro river drainages, and at a point about a mile east of the old camp at pō'taba.

pō'taba, near the head of the small creek called Soda creek, upon which the large Soda spring near the ranch house on the Singley ranch is located, and at a distance of about a mile and a half up stream from it.

ka'hōwali, from ka, water, hō, hot, and wa'li, at (?), near the summit of the range separating the Russian river and the Navarro river drainages, and at a point about a mile due west of the ranch house on what is known as the Metcalf ranch.

ka'tsami, from ka, water, and tsa'mi, a musty odor, at a point about a mile and three-quarters west-northwest of the old camp at pō'taba at the head of Soda creek northeast of Boonville.

ckī'tsil, an involuntary jerking motion, at a point about three miles northwest of the old camp at pō'taba at the head of Soda creek northeast of Boonville.

Sites Not Mentioned by Indians.

On the north bank of the south fork of Big river at the confluence of Dougarty creek with it is the site of what was probably an old village or camp. Before this land was tilled there was a small pit here which may have been that of a small sweat-house, and there are to be found even yet fragments of implements such as are common about old sites in this region.

At a point about a mile and a half up the south fork of Big river from the above mentioned site, and about four hundred yards northeast of the hotel at the summer resort known as


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Handley's, is a site which was probably inhabited only after the coming of the whites to this region, and then for only a few years.

Near the head of Indian creek in what is known as the Peachland school district is a site which was probably formerly inhabited, as there are many fragments of implements as well as other evidences of former occupation to be found here.

Lake Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

Scott's Valley Rancheria, about a mile northwest of the town of Lakeport, and on the west bank of Scott's creek. This village consists of five houses and about fifteen inhabitants, mostly former residents of Scott's valley, but with a few from other old villages.The notes as to population were made during the summer of 1903. At that time there were in addition to the houses mentioned the dilapidated remains of a native tule house. This is considered and called a village by the Indians, although the houses are not assembled at any one site but are scattered for three-quarters of a mile along the creek.

Old Village Sites.

maiyī', contagion (?), at the foot of the hills on the extreme western side of Upper Lake valley, and at a point a short distance north of Scott's creek, where it cuts through the divide between Tule lake and Upper Lake valley. This is the only point at which the territory occupied by people speaking the Northern dialect extended beyond the divide and into Upper Lake valley. This was a large village and the site seems to be one of the very old ones of this region. Many of the myths of the region mention maiyī' and some of the characters of the myths originate here. The residence of Mr. Sleeper stands just west of this site.

mama'mamaū, from mama', projecting, on a point projecting out into Tule lake from its northern shore near the outlet of the lake. This was probably never a very large village. It seems to have been occupied both before and since the coming of whites to this region.

xaro' or xaro'malūgal, from xaro', valley oak acorn black bread, malū', to bake, and gal, homeward, close to the shore at the head of a small bay extending northward from the northern part of Tule lake. This bay also bears the name xaro'.

hō'mtcatī, from hōm, nettle, and teatī', village, or kō'pbūtū,


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in the Eastern dialect, from kōp, nettle, and bū'tū, knoll, at a point about three-quarters of a mile north of Tule lake, and near the foot-hills on the eastern side of the valley. The village was situated on a small knoll which rises from the general level of the valley.

tsīya'kabēyō, on the creek tributary to Middle creek heading on the south side of Buckner mountain. This village was located about three miles south of the village of canē'kai, which was near the summit of Buckner mountain. Informants differ as to whether the inhabitants of this village were more intimately associated with the people of the Tule lake or the Potter valley region. This difference is, however, of very little importance, as the people of these two localities used the same language and were on friendly terms.

sama'kahna, on the west bank of Scott's creek at a point about three and one-half miles north-northwest of Lakeport.

sī'wakal, on the western slope and near the summit of the ridge west of Clear lake, and at a point about two miles north of Lakeport.

nōbo'ral, from nō, ashes, bor, mud, and hnal, on, on the west bank of Scott's creek at a point about two and one-half miles north-northwest of the town of Lakeport. The people of this village may be the ones referred to by GibbsSchoolcraft, III, 109. by the name of "Möal-kai," by McKeeSenate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 136. as "Moal-kai," and by Slocum, Bowen and CompanyOp. cit., Lake County, p. 35: "The Boil-ka-ya tribe lived in Scott's Valley, and their number was one hundred and eighty, which has dwindled down to forty. Che-boo-kas was their chief." Also (p. 37) a translation of the name is given, as follows: "Boil-ka-ya, a city built in the west." as "Boil-ka-ya."

ka'raka, from kar, a dry limb filled with woodpecker holes, and ka, water, on the eastern border of Scott's valley at a point about a mile and a half north-northwest of Lakeport. A portion or possibly all of the area covered by this site is on the ranch owned by Mr. J. F. Burger.

There is the site of a village, the name of which could not be recalled by the informant, on the west bank of Scott's creek at a point about a mile and a half northwest of the town of Lakeport. It is located on the ranch of Mr. M. C. Scudamore.


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kabe'l, or xabe'l in the Eastern dialect, probably from kabē' or xabē', rock, on the eastern slope of a prominent point, called Rocky point, which projects from the western shore of the channel connecting the main body of Clear lake with Upper lake, its northernmost arm. There may be some doubt as to whether this was in the strictest sense a village. One informant says that on the higher ground was the site of the winter camp and down by the shore-line was the site of the summer camp, thus considering the entire settlement as of the nature of a camp. Still other informants refer to the site as a camp, while some call it a village. However, it seems quite certain that whatever the status of the place in this respect was, it was at all times inhabited, and it has seemed best, therefore, to designate it as a village. It will be observed that the boundary line between the Northern and Eastern dialectic areas is made, on the map, to pass through this village, thus indicating that the place was a common ground for the people of both dialects. While the control of the place seems to have been left to the people of Scott's valley, there were no restrictions as to the rights of the Upper Lake people in this vicinity, and people from both Upper Lake and Scott's valley camped here and enjoyed equal rights in the adjacent waters of the lake. It would seem that this was a place of some considerable importance in former times, as it is often spoken of by the old Indians in relating the early history of this section, and is frequently referred to in the myths.

Old Camp Sites.

bō'tcawel, from bō, west, and tcawe'l, canyon, on the western shore of Tule lake at a point just north of where Scott's creek flows into it.According to one informant of the Eastern dialect bō'tcawel, or bō'kawel as it is called in the Eastern dialect, was not the name of any special site, but was applied to all of that part of the valley of Scott's creek which extends from Tule lake to Blue lakes. According to this informant also there was a village, called baka'sa, a little to the west of the site given here. The name given to the portion of Scott's creek from Blue lakes up to the vicinity of Lakeport is yīma'bidame, from yī, no (?), ma, land, and bida'me, creek, while the name of that part of the creek west of Lakeport is a'nūbidame, from a'nū signifying anything behind an object. It is said that this last name was given by the people of the Big valley region because of the fact that Scott's creek was located behind the range of hills west of Lakeport.


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yō'tōgagō, from yō, south, tō, toward, and gagō', valley, in a very small valley on the head of Scott's creek at a point about two miles and a half northeast of Red mountain.

kō'mlī, from kōm, soda spring, and lī, there, in a small valley known as Eight-mile valley situated at the head of Scott's creek and at a point about three miles north-northeast of Red mountain. It appears that there was a trail leading from Ukiah valley through the mountains to Scott's valley which passed through this small valley and near the soda spring on the south side of it from which it takes its name. So far as can be learned this camp was used chiefly as a resting place for parties traveling between Ukiah valley and the Clear lake region, and as a camp for those who went there to bathe in and drink the water from the spring which was known to have certain medicinal properties. According to one informant this camp was the temporary home of the people of the old village of kō'mlī on the town site of Ukiah when they were compelled to leave that place owing to differences which arose between themselves and the yō'kaia people in the southern end of Ukiah valley.See note 109, and kō'mlī, p. 138. The name "Cum-le-bah""The Cum-le-bah tribe was located in the upper end of Scott's valley, on the Deming place. Their number was ninety, but are now reduced to thirty. Du-goh was their chief." Op. cit., Lake County, p. 35. Also (p. 37) a translation of the name is given, as follows: "Cum-le-bah, a kind of mineral water." used by Slocum, Bowen and Company probably originated in kō'mlī.

kile'liō, from kile'l, a caved embankment, and yō, under, on the western shore of Clear lake at a point about half a mile south of Rocky point at the strait connecting Upper lake with the main body of Clear lake. It seems probable that this camp was not very much used or that it was a small camp.

kō'batap, from kō, belly, and bata'p, cut, also given as kō'batamk, on the western shore of Clear lake at a point about four miles north of Lakeport.

kaba'i, or xaba'i in the Eastern dialect, from kaba'i or xaba'i, wild onion, Allium unifolium, on the western shore of Clear lake at a point about two miles and a quarter north of Lakeport.

kale' cōkon, from kale', tree, and cōko'n, crooked, on the western shore of Clear lake at a point about a mile and three-quarters


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north of Lakeport. There seems to be some doubt as to whether this place was occupied as a camp or not, some informants maintaining that there never was a camp or village here, while others claim that this is a camp site.

katsa'mūgal, from katsa', grass, and mūga', seeds, on the western shore of Clear lake at a point about a mile and a quarter north of Lakeport.

kala'bida, from kala', clam, and bida', creek, on the western shore of Clear lake at a point about three-quarters of a mile north of Lakeport. This site is on the western shore of a small cove on the property of Mr. L. P. Burger. Another informant mentioned kūbī' as the name of a small inlet in this vicinity and said that there was a camp or village by the name of kūbī' located at the head of it. The name was, however, known to other informants only as that of an inlet, and it is possible that the site referred to by this informant as kūbī' is kala'bida.

Modern Camp Sites.

da'tsin, on a small creek called da'tsin-bida which empties into the main body of Clear lake at a point about a mile and a half south of Rocky point on the western shore of the strait connecting Upper lake with the main body of Clear lake. This camp, which is about half a mile back from the lake-shore, is used at present to a limited extent as a fishing camp.

Central Dialect.

Boundaries.

From a point on the coast about half way between Salmon creek and Navarro river the boundary of the Central dialectic area runs for a distance of about eight miles up the ridge, known as Navarro ridge, which separates Salmon creek from Navarro river. Here it turns in a general southerly direction, crosses Navarro river at a point just down stream from the confluence of the north fork with it, and then runs in a general southeasterly direction along the range of mountains just west of Navarro river to a point about two and a half miles east-northeast of Mountain view. From here it runs due east, crossing Rancheria creek and


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then Anderson valley, in which it passes about a mile and a half south of the town of Boonville, to a point near the head of Anderson creek. Here it turns in a northeasterly direction and runs for a short distance to a point near the head of Feliz creek and about due east of Boonville, where it turns in a northwesterly direction and runs along the ridge separating the Russian river and the Navarro river drainages to a point near the head of Robertson creek; thence, turning eastward, it crosses Ukiah valley and Russian river probably about two miles and a half south of the town of Ukiah.See note 109. Keeping this easterly direction the line passes up the ridge south of Mill creek to the divide separating the drainages of Russian river and Clear lake. The line to this point generally trends eastward, forms the northern boundary of this dialectic area, and separates it from that of the Northern dialect. Here, taking a general southeasterly course, the line follows the divide between Russian river and Clear lake to a point nearly due east of the town of Cloverdale, and separates the Central from the Northern and Eastern dialectic areas. It then runs in a westerly direction probably along the ridge just north of Sulphur creek, and crosses Russian river at a point about two miles and a half up stream from Cloverdale and about half a mile south of the line between Mendocino and Sonoma counties.According to one informant the line crosses the river at a certain very deep pool, called kaptcū'tōn, and the territory of the Central and Southern dialects was very exactly marked at the river by this pool. Thence it passes westward about two miles, turns in a northwesterly direction, and follows the ridge west of Russian river to a point a short distance south of McDonald. From here it runs in a general westerly direction, crossing the head of Dry creek and passing south of the head of Rancheria creek to the head of Rock Pile creek. Here it turns west-southwestward and runs along the ridge separating the north fork of Gualala river from Rock Pile creek to the confluence of the north fork with the main branch of Gualala river. This portion of the boundary runs in a general westerly direction, and separates the Central from the Southern dialectic area. From here the boundary follows Gualala river down to the ocean, and forms the boundary between the
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Central and the Southwestern areas.According to one informant this boundary terminates at the ocean at a point about half way between the mouth of Gualala river and Black point. This informant stated that the boundary was very definitely marked at this point by an old dead redwood tree. The western boundary is the coast-line.

This very irregularly shaped area is surrounded on three sides by Pomo territory, as follows: on the north by the Northern, on the east by the Northern and Eastern, and on the south by the Southern and Southwesterly dialectic areas. On the west is the ocean.

General Description.

The Central dialectic area extends over three of the natural divisions previously described: the coast, redwood, and valley regions. The portion of the coast region included within the limits of this dialectic area extends from the ridge separating Salmon creek from Navarro river southward to the mouth of Gualala river, a distance of about thirty miles. The northern part of this stretch of coast is a succession of high ridges with intervening deep, steep-walled canyons, in some of which flow streams of considerable size. Toward the south these ridges decrease in height until in the vicinity of Alder creek the cliffs give place to a sandy beach which extends to the mouth of Garcia river. This beach is backed by large sand dunes, and farther back by a stretch of gently sloping open country a mile or so in width, to the foot-hills. This is the largest beach on the entire Pomo coast. With Point Arena, immediately south of Garcia river, the cliffs begin again and continue down to the southern limit of the area at Gualala river. Throughout the entire length of this section of the coast there is a strip of open country from a quarter of a mile to a mile and a half in width bordering the shore.

Beyond this coast strip is the redwood belt extending eastward over comparatively high and rugged mountains for from five to fifteen miles. Owing to the dense forest which covers these mountains they were not permanently inhabited, and were traversable only with difficulty except along one or two trails.

The valley portion of the region covered by this dialectic area comprises the valley of Russian river from a point about two and


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a half miles north of the town of Cloverdale and a half mile south of the boundary line between Mendocino and Sonoma countiesSee note 160. up to a point about two miles and a half south of the town of Ukiah.See note 109. The southern part of this portion of Russian river valley is narrow and hardly more than a river bed between the hills on either side. About two miles south of the town of Hopland the valley widens to about a mile, and continues as a fertile river bottom, known as Hopland or Sanel valley,This valley is called by the people of the Northern Pomo dialectic area cō'kōwama, and by those of the Eastern area cōkōwa'iīna-xaxō. for about five miles. It again narrows for a distance of about three miles, forming Knight's valley, and then widens once more to form Ukiah valley, which extends beyond the northern boundary of the dialect. Rancheria valley, a small valley situated along the upper course of Rancheria creek, one of the headwaters of Navarro river, is also included in this dialectic area.

As has been noted, each of the several regions of the Pomo territory had its typical food supply. The chief food of the coast people was derived from the ocean, molluscs, particularly mussels, being very abundant, while the seeds and roots of the wild grasses and flowering plants of the open coast country, and the oaks and other trees of the adjacent mountains, provided vegetable foods. The people in the valleys derived their chief supply of vegetable food from the acorn, adding also the seeds of various grasses and flowering plants, and certain edible bulbs and corms. Various kinds of game were to be had in the mountains, and fish were plentiful at certain seasons in the streams.

Coast Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

pda'haū, from pda, river, and ha, mouth, about four miles up Garcia river from its mouth and about five miles northeast of the town of Point Arena. This village, which commonly goes by the name of the Manchester or the Garcia River rancheria, consists of fifteen houses and about sixty inhabitants,See note 167. among whom


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are Indians from the old villages on Gualala river as well as from the old village of kō'dalaū, on Brush creek at a point about two miles northeast of pda'haū. The Garcia river flows in this part of its course through a steep-walled canyon. The village is on the north side of the canyon and is located but a few hundred yards below the site of the former village of ītcē'tcē.The present village is located on land belonging to the Indians themselves, having been purchased and presented to them by the Northern California Indian Association. Up the hill, north of the present village, is the site of the former village that had been inhabited for twenty-five years or more, the Indians having abandoned it only in 1902. This same location was used before the coming of white settlers as a permanent village. It appears that during the occupation of this site as a village since the coming of the whites it was called, like the present village, pda'haū; but prior to that time, during its occupation as a permanent village prior to the coming of the whites, it bore the name ītcē'tcē. The old village near the mouth of Garcia river also bore the name pda'haū.

Old Village Sites.

dama'ldaū, at a point probably about half way between Greenwood and Elk creeks, and at a distance of about half a mile back from the ocean.

ka'ūca, on what is called Cliff ridge between Elk and Greenwood creeks, and at a point near the north bank of the former and about a mile and a half back from the shore-line of the ocean. Standing near this site is a large dead redwood tree which is mentioned in some of the myths of the region as the one which enabled katca'-tca, one of the mythical beings, to escape from danō'-tca, another being who was pursuing him. This tree alone was large and strong enough to withstand the force of danō'-tca, which had been able to break down all the other trees up which katca'-tca had endeavored to escape. According to another informant this site is located at a point several miles farther up this same ridge.

kasi'ltcimada, from kasi'l, redwood, tcima', to run up or extend up stream, and da, ?, on the north bank of Alder creek and just east of the point at which the county road crosses the creek. This site is just south of the ranch house on what is known as the Luther Redemeyer ranch.

kō'dalaū, in the hills at a point about three and one-half miles from the ocean and near the north bank of Brush creek. This


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was evidently quite a large village and was one of the permanent homes of the people who made camps along the shore-line and among the hills at tcīdō'batē, bō'cadīlaū, cī'hōbō and other points. According to another informant this site is located at a point about a mile up the same ridge from the place above mentioned.

na'kōca, on the north bank of Brush creek at a point about five and a half miles east of the town of Manchester.

ītcē'tcē, said to signify anything which bounces as it is pulled along, on the north bank of Garcia river and just up the hill from the present village of pda'haū. This site, it would appear, was once permanently inhabited as a village, being later, possibly only during the earliest white occupation of the country, occupied as a camp. About twenty-five years ago the Indians established their modern village at this site and occupied it until 1902, when they abandoned it to move a few hundred yards down the hill toward the river onto the land purchased for them by the Northern California Indian Association.

pda'haū, from pda, river, and ha, mouth, near the north bank of Garcia river at the north end of the wagon bridge which crosses the river just north of Flumeville, almost due north of Point Arena. The Indian name of the present Garcia river rancheria, which is located about three miles up stream from this site, is also pda'haū.

djē'comī, just south of the cemetery which is situated about three-quarters of a mile north-northwest of the town of Point Arena.

ma'canena, from ma, ground, cane', sweat-house, and na or wina', on top of, on the northwest bank of the north fork of Gualala river at a point about seven miles from its confluence with the main stream.

katsa'iwanī, near the opposite bank of the north fork of Gualala river from ma'canena, and on the north bank of a small stream which flows into it.

la'tcûpda, on the north bank of the small stream mentioned in connection with katsa'iwanī, but at a point about a mile and a half up stream from that place. This site appears to have been the most important of the old sites on the head of the north fork of Gualala river and gave its name to the entire vicinity, the other


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villages in the neighborhood not being continuously inhabited as was the case with this one. However, the other sites must be regarded as permanent old villages for the Indians say that they were never abandoned for so long but that houses remained there constantly. la'tcûpda was located just north of what is known as Rock Pile, a prominent rocky mountain frequently mentioned in the myths of this region. There seems to be some doubt as to the exact location of la'tcûpda and kūbahmō'ī which lies in the Southern dialectic area. According to some informants these two villages were on opposite sides of the mountain, Rock Pile, above mentioned, which would bring kūbahmō'ī a number of miles farther up Rock Pile creek than is indicated below. From the most reliable information obtainable, however, the locations given for these two sites seem to be the correct ones.

īwī'kbēdabaū, from īwī', coyote, kabē', rock, and daba'ū, to split with the hand, on the opposite side of the small creek above mentioned from la'tcûpda. The Indians say that this name is given to this site because of the presence of a bluish rock which stands about two feet out of the ground and has an area three or four feet square. This rock is filled with small shallow cuppings and long narrow scratches or gashes, all of which are said to have been made by coyote. The rock is described as similar to certain rocks in the vicinity of the old villages of mū'yamūya and bō'dōnō in Russian river valley, which are said by the Indians of that vicinity to be medicine rocks and to have formerly been used as cures for sterility.

ma'tasama, from ma, ground, ta or tas, red, and sa'ma, near (?), on the northwest bank of the north fork of Gualala river at a point about a mile northeast of the old village of ma'canena.

tca'msūmlī, from tca, house, msū, said to signify charred or half burned, and lī, there, on the ridge separating the headwaters of Garcia river from those of the north fork of Gualala river and at a point probably about two miles and a half from the old village of la'tcûpda.

kle'tel, from kale', tree, and ite'l, to peel off, in the mountains between Garcia river and the headwaters of the north fork of Gualala river at a point probably about three miles and a half northwest of the old village of la'tcûpda.


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Old Camp Sites.

bō'cadīlaū, from bō, west, and ca'dīlaū, projecting point, on a projecting point of land at the shore-line just north of the town of Greenwood. This camp was at the southern end of the wagon bridge between Greenwood and Cuffey's Cove, about three-quarters of a mile to the north.

tcīdō'bate, at what is known as Bridgeport on the coast about two miles and a quarter south from the mouth of Elk creek.

cane'ūca, from cane', sweat-house, and wica', a small ridge, rather indefinitely located as being on the north bank of Gualala river at a point probably about twelve or thirteen miles up stream from its mouth.

īwī'yokca, from īwī', coyote, yō, down or south, and kca, gulch, rather indefinitely located as being on the north bank of Garcia river at a point about three miles up stream from cane'ūca. This site is probably the same as that mentioned by some of the whites of the vicinity, they having found stone implements and other evidences of former habitation at this place.

bahe'myō, from bahe'm, pepperwood, and yō, under, on the north bank of Garcia river on what is known as the Campbell ranch. This site is said to have been located on the immediate bank of the river and was probably not over a mile distant from īwī'yokca.

kaiye' 'lem, from kaiye' manzanita, and īle'm, between hills, near the south bank of Garcia river at a point probably about two miles up stream from bahe'myō.

kawa'tcam, from kawa', bark, and tcam, to fall across, near the north bank of Garcia river at a point probably about four miles up stream from kaiye' 'lem.

kacī'lcego, from kaci'l or kasi'l, redwood, and cego', ?, at Mountain View. The present hotel at Mountain View is located exactly upon this site. The Indian name is given because of the fact that there was formerly a small clump of redwoods near the spring at which the Indians always camped.

cī'hōbō, at a point in the mountains about ten miles a little north of east of the mouth of Garcia river and about one mile west of Mountain View. This camp was used by parties gathering


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acorns and other vegetable foods while the camps along the shore-line were for the purposes of gathering molluscs and sea-weeds, and for hunting sea-lions and other game along the shore.

ka'dalaū, from ka, water, dala'ū, to run down, in the bottom of the small gulch just south of the store in the small town known as Fish Rock, which is located on the coast at a point about three and a half miles northwest of Gualala. It would appear that this camp was only used by fishing parties and even then only rarely. The Indians claim that there were no regular camps between this point and the town of Point Arena to the north, though there were certain places along this stretch of coast where they occasionally camped for fishing or sea hunting.

ka'mli, anything thrown across, at a point about a quarter of a mile north of Bowen's Landing and about a mile and three-quarters northwest of the town of Gualala. This site is probably the same as that referred to by certain white informants of this vicinity who have found here various evidences of aboriginal occupation.

īwī' 'tcal, from īwī, coyote, and tca, house, near the ocean at a point about a mile northwest of the town of Gualala.

sō'wī, from sō, clover, and wī, place, near the north bank of the north fork of Gualala river at a point about a mile and a half up stream from its confluence with the main stream.

tse'ki, said to signify low in the center, on the ridge immediately south of the north fork of Gualala river and at a point about two miles east of its confluence with the main stream.

kasa'sam, in the mountains between the north fork of Gualala river and Rock Pile creek and at a point about five miles east of the confluence of the north fork with the main stream of Gualala river. The Indians say that this camp was particularly used as a stopping place for those returning heavily laden from the coast to la'tûcpda. They were usually easily able to make the trip from la'tcûpda to the coast in a single day, but some found it too fatiguing to return with a basketful of fish or molluscs in a single day and would therefore spend the night at kasa'sam.


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Valley Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

Hopland Rancheria, at a point about a mile nearly due north of the town of Hopland. This village is located on land belonging to Mr. A. W. Foster, and is on the first rise of the foot-hills east of Russian river. It consists of sixteen houses and about one hundred inhabitants, among whom are to be found not only people from the old villages in this immediate vicinity, but also some from those in Ukiah valley and some from those along the river south of Hopland. A school is here maintained under the auspices of the Roman Catholic church.In Alley, Bowen and Company's History of Mendocino County, California, published in 1880, the following is said (page 173) of the Indian population at that time: "At the present time there is quite a village a few miles north of Sanel, the remnant of the Sanels, numbering perhaps one hundred and fifty. The village consists of some twenty thatched, dome-like huts, and in the center of it is located the inevitable sweat-house. South of Ukiah, about five miles, there are two or three small villages containing in all, perhaps, two hundred. Near Calpella there are, perhaps, fifty; east of Ukiah there are about one hundred. At Cahto there is a village of about seventy-five; at Sherwood valley there are about seventy-five. Near Point Arena there is a village of probably one hundred; and at the mouth of Big river there is a rancheria of about one hundred. There are others scattered over the county but these are the main villages."

yō'kaia, from yō, south, ka'ia, valley, Beatty Rancheria, or Cox Rancheria, about six miles south-southeast of the town of Ukiah, and in the foot-hills on the eastern side of the valley. Before the coming of the whites the people of this village lived chiefly at cō'kadjal, a short distance northwest of this site. After their return from the Mendocino reservation they lived at various places in this vicinity, chiefly on the western side of the valley, and moved to their present village only upon acquiring title to a tract of 145 acres of land extending from the east bank of Russian river back into the hills on the eastern side of the valley. The village which in 1903 consisted of nineteen houses and about eighty inhabitants, among whom were some from Hopland valley and some from the coast region of this dialectic area, has decreased until it contains not over fifty inhabitants at present.See note 167. There is here a large dance-house, which is, however, entirely modern, being octagonal in form, built of ordinary lumber, and


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entirely above ground. This building has not been used for dances for several years, but serves as a place of assemblage when occasion demands. In addition to the houses mentioned, there are a hop kiln and six barns. These people have on their land along the river a field of fourteen acres of hops, besides a field of grain, from both of which they derive a considerable revenue. There is a school at this village maintained under the auspices of the Roman Catholic church. During the summer months many of the inhabitants of this village move to the summer camp on the river near their hop field, while others move to the hop fields of various ranchers in the valley. The name yō'kaia, referring to the people of the southern part of Ukiah valley and more particularly those of the old village of cō'kadjal, has been used by various early writers. GibbsSchoolcraft, III, 112, 113, 421. mentions the "Yukai" as a "band" living in what is now called Ukiah valley. PowersTribes of California, p. 163. gives "Yo-kai-a" as the name of the people occupying Ukiah valley "from a point a little below Calpella down to about seven miles below Ukiah,"See note 109. and derives the name from "yo, down, below or lower, and kaia, valley." The late Mr. A. E. SherwoodHistory of Mendocino, op. cit., p. 167. gives the name "yo-kai-ah," with the translation of "deep valley." Also, various other orthographies have been used, as "Ukiah, or Yokai,"Bancroft, Native Races, I, 362, 449. "Ukiah,"Capt. Ford, Rept. Com. Ind. Aff. 1856, p. 257. "Yokaya,"Powell, op cit., p. 89. "Ya-ki-a,"M'Kee, Senate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 144. and "Yokia."V. K. Chesnut, Plants used by the Indians of Mendocino County, California, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Division of Botany, Contributions from U. S. National Herbarium, VII, no. 3, p. 303 seq. PurdyOp. cit., Land of Sunshine, XV, 444. uses "Yokaia Pomo" with the translation of "South Valley People." Some confusion has arisen from the inconsistency of the alphabets employed by these various authors, particularly because of the likeness of some of these spellings of yō'kaia to those of Yuki, which name has been even more variously and inconsistently rendered. The name,
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now spelled Ukiah, is applied to the county seat of Mendocino county, and to the valley in which that town is situated. The first use of it other than as a purely Indian word is found in the name Yokaya Rancho.The orthography above given is that used by Alley Bowen and Company (op. cit., p. 211), while Brackenridge uses Yokayo (Map of Mendocino County, op. cit.). This rancho was an old Mexican grant of eight square leagues of land extending along Russian river for a distance of eighteen miles from a point about four miles north of Hopland to near the head of Redwood valley north of Calpella.

kabē'k!al, from kabē', rock, and k!al, to rub, at the foot-hills on the opposite side of the valley from the yō'kaia rancheria, and at a point about five and a half miles south of the town of Ukiah. This site takes its name from a white rock, supposed to possess medicinal qualities, which stands a short distance west of it. There is here at present but a single house and five people. There is another house, in which six Indians live, on the flat east of this one and near the river. These people all belong to the yō'kaia rancheria and have lived at this place continuously only for about two years. Previous to this they usually spent only part of the year here.

Yorkville Rancheria, near the west bank of Rancheria creek at a point about a mile and a half northwest of the town of Yorkville. This village consists of only two houses and about ten inhabitants, and is situated on a tract of land belonging to the Indians themselves. This tract, containing forty acres, a considerable part of which is covered with redwood timber, was purchased by the Indians some years ago at a cost of six hundred dollars.

Old Village Sites.

kolo'kō, near Echo at a point on Russian river about two miles north of the southern boundary of the Central dialectic area. There are two places here which were formerly inhabited, though at different times: one just north of the railroad station at Echo, and the other just east, across the river.

ce'pda, on both banks of Wise creek at the railroad station of Cummiskey.

kca'kaleyō, on the east bank of Russian river at a point about three quarters of a mile northeast of Cummiskey.


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found it at the time of his visit to the region. He saysIbid., p. 172. also, "Besides the Senel, there live in the vicinity the So-ko'-wa, the La'-ma, and the Si'-a-ko, very small tribes or villages." GibbsSchoolcraft, III, 112. mentions "the Sah-ne'ls" in his record of the Indians who entered into a treaty with Colonel M'Kee. And again, in speaking of their language, he says, "the Sah-ne'ls, as also the Boch-he'af, Ubak-he'a, Tabah-te'a, and Moi-ya, living between them and the coast speak the same." M'KeeSenate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 144. calls them "the Sai-nals." Powell,Ind. Ling. Fam., p. 89. probably following Powers, spells the name "Senel," as do also Alley, Bowen and Company.History of Mendocino County, p. 167. BancroftHist. Cal., I, 362, 450, 452. gives the name of the Indians the same as that of the present town: "The Sanels, Socoas, Lamas, and Seacos lived in the vicinity of the village of Sanel," and Mr. Carl PurdyPomo Indian Baskets and Their Makers, Land of Sunshine Magazine, XV, 442. mentions them as the "Sanelos." The name is also found in "Rancho de Senel."The Rancho de Senel was an old Mexican land grant obtained by Fernando Feliz in 1844. It comprised four square leagues, covering Hopland or Sanel valley and the adjacent hills. Feliz, who was the first settler in this valley, built his adobe house only a short distance from the Indian village of cane'l.—History of Mendocino County, op. cit., p. 212, and N. B. Brackenridge's Official Map of Mendocino County, 1887. Besides the village of cane'l here under consideration there is another village of that name in Potter valley on the east fork of Russian river.

cō'samak, in what is called McDowell valley near the head of McDowell creek, and at a point about a mile and three-quarters northeast of Sanel or Old Hopland. It appears that this village has not been inhabited for many years and there are stories to the effect that many years ago the people of this village, which was at that time a very large one, were all taken by a contagious disease. This is also the village mentioned in one of the myths of the region which says that the people here at one time were miraculously changed to birds which flew away, the village never again being occupied.

kawī'mō, from kawī', anything small, and mō, hole, at a point


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of Russian river at a point about a mile and a half up stream from the confluence of McNab creek with it. There is considerable doubt as to whether this site was ever inhabited by the present Indians, but it is given by some as an ordinary village. By others, however, it is given as the site of a village occupied by the mythical people only. According to one informant mū'yamūya was a great ugly-looking hairy man-like being nine or ten feet in height, who lived alone near a spring called kapa'sil, spring brush, in the brush at a point about a quarter of a mile south of the old village of lē'ma. As any one passed by he would always make fun of them and invite them to gamble. No one ever paid any attention to his bantering, but passed on and as his back was turned mū'yamūya would run up and steal whatever the person was carrying and make off with it. On account of his strength and size the people were afraid to attack him at such times, but they eventually gave a big dance and feast to which he was invited, and there they endeavored to kill him. He warned them repeatedly that if he were killed some great calamity would befall them, but said that if they wished to dispose of him they must dress him up in a certain very rich costume and throw him into a big pool in the river at the foot of the cliff just north of the village of mū'yamūya. They, however, paid no attention to his warning and proceeded to pinion him and allow the women to pound him to pieces with pestles. They then threw the mangled remains away and rejoiced that they were at last rid of this vicious tormentor. But no sooner had they returned to the village than he also appeared, the pieces of his body having come together and reunited. At other times he was known to have been attacked by grizzly bears while hunting and to have been chewed into bits by them and still to have survived. Finally after the people of this village had endeavored a number of times to kill mū'yamūya they determined to again try mashing him. They accordingly caught him and took him to the top of the cliff just north of the village and mashed his body completely, this time not overlooking any parts and particularly the great toe of his right foot. Under the nail of mū'yamūya's great toe on the right foot there was a small hard kernel which when cut open and examined was found to enclose his heart. It was the overlooking
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of this heart that had formerly baffled their attempts to kill him. This time, however, they cut out the heart and rolled the fragments of the body over the cliff into the pool below, also rolling large boulders after them. The boulders may now be seen at the foot of this cliff. The people then celebrated the occasion with a great dance, at the end of which all were transformed into birds which flew away, and the village has never since been inhabited.

A hundred yards or so west of this site is a bluish stonew which protrudes from the ground but a few inches. The surface of this is filled with small cuppings and scratches or gashes where the rock has been scraped and pulverized as a medicine for the cure of sterility. Other rocks of the same kind are located near the old village of bō'dōnō.

ta'tem, from ta', sand, and īte'm, a small open place, on what is known as the Smith ranch now owned by Mr. Charles Yates on the east bank of Russian river at a point about two miles north-northwest of Largo and about seven and a half miles south-southeast of Ukiah. This village derived its name from the sandy flat upon which it was situated. In former times the river ran farther to the east and near this site, so that the site itself was overflowed every year and covered with sand. The river has shifted its course so that at the present time it runs about a quarter of a mile west of the old site. At times of such high water the people of this village moved to a place but a short distance east of the village which was high enough to be dry, returning again to the sandy flat as soon as the water subsided. This was one of the largest of the old villages in Ukiah valley and was situated at the extreme southern end of the valley. From all that can be learned this village was nearly as large as cō'kadjal

tca'kca, from tca, house, and kca, canyon, just northwest of the present yō'kaia village and at a point about a quarter of a mile east of Russian river. The ranch house on the "old" Beatty ranch, now owned by Mr. H. H. Van Nader, stands on this site. It appears that this was originally only a temporary village, being occupied now and then for short periods of time, but that later, probably after the arrival of white settlers, it was occupied for a term of years.


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cane'milam, from cane', sweat-house, and mila'm, burned or otherwise totally destroyed, at the house on Dr. King's ranch just east of Russian river and at a point about five miles south-southeast of Ukiah.

cō'kadjal, just north of the ranch house on the Rhodes ranch at a point about four miles and a half south-southeast of Ukiah. There was formerly a small pond at this place which was situated just west of the hop kiln and the ranch house, and it was on the east or northeast shore of this pond that the village was located. This was the largest of the yō'kaia villages and the largest village in the southern part of Ukiah valley. It appears that this village and ta'tem were the only two in this immediate vicinity which might properly be called permanent villages, although there were various others which were more or less continuously inhabited, but the people of the other villages seemed to consider these two as their real homes and it was here, particularly at cō'kadjal, that large gatherings for ceremonial and other purposes were held.

After what is known as the Bloody Island massacre at Clear Lake in 1850, when a detachment of troops under Captain Lyons visited that region to avenge the so-called Stone and Kelsey massacre and succeeded in killing a large number of Indians who had taken refuge on Bloody Island, the detachment of troops crossed the divide into Russian river valley and killed many Indians there. Among the other places visited was cō'kadjal, where, upon being met with a slight show of resistance, they killed, according to information obtained from Indians who escaped, about seventy-five.

canē'nēū, from cane', sweat-house, and nē'u, to place, on the south bank of Robertson creek at a point about three-quarters of a mile from its confluence with Russian river. The ranch house on the ranch now owned by Mr. Isaac Burk stands on this site. It appears that this was one of the smaller villages and was possibly not continuously occupied in aboriginal times. However, after the coming of white settlers the people of cō'kadjal occupied this site continuously for several years.

bō'kca, from bō, west, and kca, canyon, on the south bank of Robertson creek at a point about a mile and three-quarters from


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its confluence with Russian river. This is near the bridge across Robertson creek at the Wilcox ranch.

bō'dōnō, from bō, west, and dōnō' or danō', mountain, just southeast of the county road at the point where it passes the ranch house on the Elledge ranch, and at a point about four and a half miles southwest of the confluence of Robertson creek with Russian river and about a mile south of the creek. This village is well back in the mountains and it appears that while it is was permanently inhabited in so far that there were a few people living here at all times, it perhaps should not be classed as one of the regular and permanent old villages. It was used by the people of cō'kadjal and the other villages in the valley as a food gathering and a hunting camp, they going here regularly at certain seasons of the year; and in this way it may be considered as much a camp as a village in the strict sense of the term. A few hundred yards northwest of this site are two bluish rocks which project a short distance from the surface of the ground. The surfaces of these are covered with cuppings and furrows or gashes where the rock has been ground and scraped into a powder to be used as a cure for sterility. Another rock of this same sort is situated near the old village of mū'yamūya.

dakō'lkabe, probably from dakō', pestle, and kabe', rock, near the east bank of Rancheria creek at a point about two and a quarter miles south-southeast of the town of Boonville. According to one informant the people of this village owned the adjoining land for about a mile north of the village or about to the summit of the ridge between Rancheria and Anderson creeks, which would place the boundary between the Central and Northern dialectic areas about as given on the accompanying map. This site is claimed to be a village by most informants, but there are those who state that the place was never inhabited and who know it only as a conspicuous pile of rocks.

sa"nōlyō, near the east bank of Rancheria creek at a point about five miles down the stream from Yorkville.

kō'thwī, near the east bank of Rancheria creek at a point about three miles down stream from Yorkville.

cta'la, in a small valley southwest of Rancheria creek and at a point about three and a half miles northwest of Yorkville and a mile west-southwest of kō'thwī.


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la'te, on the west bank of Rancheria creek at a point about a mile nearly due west of Yorkville.Powers in his tribes of California (p. 172) gives the Indians of Anderson and Rancheria valleys as united politically. Under the head of "Koma'cho" he says: "These Indians live in Rancheria and Anderson valleys, and are a branch of the great Pomo family, though more nearly related to the Senel than the Pomo proper. Their name is derived from their present chief, whose authority extends over both valleys." It is very unusual to find the authority of a single individual extending farther than his own immediate village, and, in view of the fact that, according to present information, these two valleys were inhabited by people speaking different dialects, kōma'tcō being really applied to the people in Anderson valley in the Northern dialectic area, it seems probable that Powers' statements on the subject do not give the condition in aboriginal times. It sometimes happens that the whites consider the authority of an individual Indian to extend much farther than it really does, and it is probable that the leader or captain referred to here was treated by the whites as having authority over the people inhabiting both of these valleys, and from this he may have come to be considered so by the Indians themselves, at least in so far as their dealings with the whites were concerned. Powell (op. cit., p. 88) and Bancroft (History of California, I, 362, 449) mention the same people, the former using Powers' spelling of the name, and the latter changing it to "Comacho." Gibbs (Schoolcraft, III, 112) mentions four "tribes," the "Boch-he'af, Ubak-he'a, Tabah-te'a and Moiya," who, he says, lived between the Senel valley and the coast. Tabah-te'a is evidently the village of ta'bate near Philo in Anderson valley. Boch-he'af is probably bō'kēya, a name applied by the people of the Russian river valley to those living in Rancheria valley.

kala'icōlem, at a point about a mile and a quarter south-southwest of Yorkville.

kaiye'lle, at a point about three-quarters of a mile north of Whitehall.

nōtce'tīyō, at Whitehall.

mabō'tōn, indefinitely located at a point probably a mile and a half a little south of east of Whitehall.

la'li, indefinitely located at a point near the head of Rancheria creek and probably about two miles southwest of Whitehall.

Uninhabited Modern Village Sites.

katca'yō, from katca', flint, and yō, under, near the west bank of Russian river at a point about six and a half miles south of Ukiah. This village is located at the foot-hills on the Higgins ranch. Just up the hill from this site there is an outcropping of flint of various colors and it was here that much of the flint used for drill points and in the manufacture of various other implements was obtained. It is this outcropping of flint that is referred to in the village name. According to some informants this


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village was inhabited to a limited extent before the coming of white settlers, but from the most reliable information obtainable it appears that its occupation dates only as far back as the coming of settlers to the valley.

kala'lnōkca, from kala'l-nō, white willow, and kca, canyon, on the small creek called kala'lnōkca-pda which runs from the west into Russian river on the Higgins ranch about six miles south of Ukiah. This site is located a short distance north of the creek at a point about a mile from the river. The village, the greater part of which was situated on the north bank of the stream, was occupied for about ten or fifteen years soon after the coming of white settlers to this region, and has not been inhabited for twenty-five or thirty years.

būki'snal, from bū, Indian potatoes, kis, heart burn, and nal, forest, at a point about half a mile northeast of the hop kiln on the H. H. Van Nader ranch and but a short distance north-northeast of the present yō'kaia rancheria. This site was inhabited for only a short time, but the name was always applied to this vicinity, which was used as a hunting ground in aboriginal times.

bana'kaiyaū, at the house on what is known as the Howell "home" ranch at a point about half a mile east of Russian river and about four miles south-southeast of Ukiah.

Old Camp Sites.

batcō'adanō, from batcō'a, angelica, and danō', mountain, indefinitely located at a point about a mile and a half southwest of Echo.

cabū'tūkkawī, indefinitely located at a point about two miles west-northwest of Echo and about a mile and three-quarters southwest of Cummiskey.

cete'kō, at McDonald.

cīyō'tōn, from cīyō', shade or shadow, and tōn, ?, at a point about a mile north of McDonald.

a'kūle, in the hills at a point about two miles northeast of Echo.

cīyō'ksītī, at a point about two miles east-southeast of Fountain.


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sū'lmō, from sūl, California condor, Cathartes Californianus, and mō, hole, at a point about a hundred yards northwest of cīyōksītī. These two sites are so close together that it has been necessary to indicate them on the map by a single symbol.

ta'tī, at a point about a mile and three-quarters due east of Fountain. This camp bears the same name as a camp on Feliz creek west of Hopland.

bō'pda'wī, from bō, west, pda, creek, and wī, place, on Feliz creek at a point about a mile up stream from Hopland. This camp was located on both sides of the creek.

tca'mna, from tcam, live oak (?) and nal, forest, at a point about two miles up Feliz creek from Hopland.

ta'tī, at a point about three miles and a half up Feliz creek from Hopland. This camp bears the same name as a camp in the hills east of Fountain.

kō'dakatc, arched or bowed up, at a point about four miles up Feliz creek from Hopland.

kabē'bot, from kabē, rock, and bot, scattered around in small pieces (?), in the hills north of Feliz creek at a point probably about half a mile north of the creek and three miles west of Hopland. Some informants give this as a regular camp used in hunting, but others say that this place and vicinity were occupied by a mythical people who stole children and spoiled the luck of hunters, and there are myths which relate instances of both.

bō'cema, near the north bank of McNab creek at a point about a mile and a quarter from its confluence with Russian river.

bō'tcematc, from bō, west and tce'matc, narrow valley (?) at a point about three miles and a quarter up McNab creek from Russian river and about a mile and a quarter up the creek from the old village of lē'ma.

tcīmōna'l, from tcīm, the plant Carex barbarae, and nal, forest, at a point about a mile north of Largo and on the east bank of Russian river. This was a camp used chiefly by the people of cīē'go and derives its name from the fact that the Carex grew very abundantly and to an unusual height here.

dū'mī, near the confluence of Dry creek with Russian river at a point about six and a half miles south of Ukiah, and about a mile south-southwest of the present yō'kaia rancheria. The location


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given on the accompanying map is on the north bank of this creek, and on the Horst Brothers ranch, but according to other informants there was still another site on the south bank of the creek and about a quarter of a mile up stream. After the coming of the whites this site was occupied permanently for a short time by at least a few Indians.

tcacō'l, at a point just south of the confluence of Robertson creek with Russian river. This site is located just east of the railroad track on the Isaac Burk ranch and nearly due east of the ranch house.

cō'dōnō, from cō, east, and dōnō' or danō', mountain, at a point about a mile east of Russian river and about four miles southeast of Ukiah. This site is located at the foot of a rocky peak about a mile south of Mill creek.

kawī'aka, at a point about a quarter of a mile west of Russian river and about three miles south of Ukiah. This site is located on the first bench of land up from the river bottom and is just west of a small slough which runs through the Cox and Dutton ranches. Before the coming of white settlers to this region the river itself ran in this slough, which is at a distance of about a quarter of a mile west of the present course of the river. The ranch house on the Cox ranch is situated on this site.

camō'ka, near the south bank of Robertson creek at a point about three and a half miles up stream from Russian river. This camp seems to have been but little used and only an approximate location could be obtained for it.

tcīe'ūna, from tcī'eū, said to signify the highest point on a stream to which large fish, such as salmon, can ascend, and ūna', or wīna' on top of, at or near the ranch house on the Lucas ranch at a point about five miles up Robertson creek from its confluence with Russian river.

bōa'nō, from bō, west, and a'nū or a'nō, behind, in the mountains north of Robertson creek and at a point probably about four and a half miles west of Russian river and about two miles north of Robertson creek. This site was indefinitely located by informants.

yōma'caditc, from yō, south, ma, ground, and caditc, point; or yō'madīdī, at the Finney ranch on the eastern slope of the summit


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of the range separating the Russian river and the Navarro river drainages and at a point about five miles northeast of the town of Boonville. This site stands just south of the ranch house here.

maca'l, in the mountains southwest of Rancheria creek and at a point about two and three-quarters miles a little north of west of the town of Yorkville. There was a large open field here where grasses and other vegetable foods were fairly abundant. This was, however, a hunting camp as well as a food gathering camp.

batī'ûkalēwī, in the mountains at a point probably about four miles due west of Yorkville.

pō'lma, from pōl or pō, red, and ma, earth, near the west bank of Rancheria creek at a point about a mile southwest of Yorkville.

Modern Camp Sites.

yō'kaia, from yō, south, and ka'ia, valley, on the est bank of Russian river on the ranch of the yō'kaia Indians. The permanent village is located in the foot-hills on the eastern side of Ukiah valley. Many of the Indians occupy this camp during the summer months.

Eastern Dialect.

Boundaries.

From a point on the Pomo-Yuki interstock boundary a short distance southeast of Big Horse mountain, the boundary line of the Eastern dialectic area follows the interstock line which runs in a southeasterly direction along the ridge separating the drainage of the Rice fork of South Eel river from that of Middle creek, and thence along the ridge east of Clear lake to a point about due east of the old village of cī'gōm near Morrison's landing. This boundary follows the general trend of the mountains in this region and separates the Yuki and Wintun territories from that of the Eastern Pomo dialect. At this point the line takes a south-westerly course, coming to the lake shore at Bald mountain, kītcī'danō, where it turns in a southerly direction, passing into the


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lake and toward Mt. Kanaktai,Mt. Kanaktai is, perhaps, better known to the white inhabitants of the vicinity as Uncle Sam mountain, and it is so named on most maps. As nearly as can be learned the first name given to it by Americans was Mt. M'Kee, which was used by Gibbs (Schoolcraft, III, 109 seq.), and was evidently given to it in honor of Colonel Redick M'Kee, United States Indian Agent, who explored the region north of San Francisco bay in 1851 for the purpose of locating reservations for the Indians. The name Kanaktai is derived from the Southeastern Pomo dialect name for the mountain, which is kno'ktai, from kno, mountain, and xatai, woman. The mountain is said to have some connection with a mythical woman. In Slocum, Bowen and Company's History of Napa and Lake Counties (Lake County, p. 37), and on the California State Mining Bureau's "Mineral Map of Lake County" the spellings are "Konockti" and "Konochti" respectively. The people speaking the Eastern Pomo dialect call it caxa'lgūnal-danō, caxa'lgīnal-danō, and danō'-batin (mountain big), the first, however, being most commonly used. This name is also mentioned by Slocum, Bowen and Company (ibid.) with the spelling "Sha-hul-gu-nal-da-noo." The mountain is also occasionally called by the Eastern Pomo xūnū'-danō, or luck mountain, which name it derives from the fact that certain plants, the roots of which are very powerful charms, particularly in gambling, are most efficient when obtained from this mountain. Along with this belief goes another that the mountain, which is of volcanic origin, and upon which there are said to be no springs or other sources of water, is the abode of numerous strange animals and beings, some of which are so potent that the sight of them causes death. The Wintun on Cache creek give the mountain the name be'n-toL, signifying "big mountain," which, however, is not confined to this peak, but seems to be applied by the Wintun in its immediate vicinity to any prominent mountain. As an instance, St. John mountain at the head of Stony creek bears this name. The Moquelumnan of Coyote valley on Putah creek call it ûdi'-pawī, which also signifies "big mountain." finally coming to the northern boundary of the Clear Lake Wappo areaAs has been previously stated, there was in no part of the waters of Clear lake any exact dividing line between the portions belonging to the people occupying the adjacent lands, so that any line run through the lake as a boundary between adjacent areas is only approximate and should not be considered as marking off any limits to the fishing or hunting privileges of the peoples in the vicinity. Nominally however, the people inhabiting the shore in any particular part of the lake were recognized to have a certain special part of the adjacent waters which they in a way controlled but did not monopolize or restrict to their own exclusive uses. which it follows with its westerly trend to the southern shore of Clear lake at a point about a quarter of a mile west of the mouth of Kelsey creek. It here turns southward, passing from a quarter to a half mile west of Cole creek, and runs to a point about three and a half miles south-southeast of the town of Kelseyville where it turns eastward, crossing the head of Cole creek, and runs to the summit of the divide between the headwaters of Cole creek and the drainage of Lower lake, the southern arm of Clear lake. It then runs southward along this divide to a point near the head of Cole creek. This portion of the boundary separates the territory of the Eastern
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Pomo from those of the Southeastern Pomo and the Clear Lake Wappo. From the head of Cole creek the boundary takes a little more westerly course along this range of mountains, which connects Mt. Kanaktai with Mt. St. Helena, probably to Cobb mountain, and separates the Eastern Pomo from the Northern Moquelumnan area. The point at which the boundary leaves this range is not definitely known; but it passes in a northwesterly direction along the divide separating the drainage of Russian river from that of Clear lake to a point near the southern headwaters of Scott's creek, separating in this portion of its course the Eastern from the Southern and Central Pomo dialectic areas. From here it runs east for a short distance, then north to the shore of Clear lake at a point just north of the town of Lakeport. From this point up to the strait joining the main body of Clear lake with its northern arm the shore was owned by people speaking the Northern dialect. There seem, however, to have been no restrictions as to the use of any particular part of the lake itself by the people speaking either dialect: on the contrary, it seems rather to have been considered as common property and freely used by both. From Rocky point, on the western shore of this strait, the line runs in a general northerly direction along the low ridge which lies west of Upper Lake, crosses Scott's creek at its emergence into Upper Lake valley, and runs along the ridge separating the drainage of Middle creek from that to the north of Tule lake, and finally intersects the interstock line at the starting point, a short distance southeast of Big Horse mountain. The Northern dialectic area lies west of this portion of the boundary.

The territory occupied by the people speaking the Eastern dialect is roughly trapezoidal in form, and is surrounded partly by other Pomo territory and partly by territory belonging to other linguistic families. On the northeast lies Yuki and Wintun territory and on the east are the areas of the Southeastern Pomo, the Clear Lake Wappo, and the Northern Moquelumnan, while on the southwest and west the territory is adjoined by the Southern, Central, and Northern Pomo areas.


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General Description.

The Eastern dialectic area lies wholly within the lake region, which has been previously described, and is divided by the main body of Clear lake into two parts: the northern or Upper lakeUpper lake is a small body of water connected with the remainder of Clear lake by a narrow strait. It is called by all the people of the Eastern dialectic area xa'-xaiyaū, water (lake) head, it being considered the head of Clear lake. The name is applied also to all the surrounding country even as far west as Bachelor valley and Tule lake. Upper lake is also sometimes called xa-xo'rxa. division, comprising all the territory north of the main body of Clear lake; and the southern or Big valleyBig valley is called by the people in the Upper lake region, yō'-xag` ōi, or south valley, and by those of the Southeastern dialectic area, and also by the Wintun living on Cache creek, kala'mai. division, comprising all the territory south of the main body of Clear lake. About the shores of Upper lake, the northern arm of Clear lake, and for several miles up Middle creek there extends a fertile valley surrounded on three sides by high, sparsely wooded hills. On the southern shore of Clear lake there is a still larger and very fertile valley, called Big valley, from which the division takes its name. Immediately to the east of Big valley Mt. Kanaktai rises to a considerable height, but is on the whole very barren as compared with the lower hills to the south and west. The valley itself is watered by several small streams. The principal villages of the Eastern Pomo were near the lake shore in these two valleys, and thus as near as possible to the lake which was the chief source of food supply. The men took an abundance of fish with nets from their canoes and by means of weirs and traps set in the creeks, while water birds were always to be had and were especially plentiful at certain seasons of the year. The valleys and surrounding hills provided an abundance of acorns and other vegetable foods. On the whole the natural resources of the lake region seem to have been exceptional, and there was undoubtedly a large population here in former times.

Upper Lake Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

yō'būtūī, from yō, south, and būtū', knoll, near the west bank of Scott's creek at a point about two miles south-southwest of the


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town of Upper Lake. The present village, consisting of only a couple of houses with half a dozen inhabitants, stands on the site of a very old and once populous village. This old village is often mentioned in the myths of this region in connection with maiyī', another old site located a short distance to the north.Slocum, Bowen and Company, op. cit., Lake County, p. 35, say: "The Yo-voo-tu-ea were neighbors of the Ki-ous, and were just east of them, on the borders of Tule lake. Their former number was one hundred and fifty, which is now reduced to forty-five. Ja-ma-toe was their chief." Also (p. 37) a translation of the name is given, as follows: "Yo-voo-tu-ea, a small hill."

kabēmatō'lil, from kabē', rock and matō'lk, to scatter, on the west bank of Middle creek about two miles north of the town of Upper lake. This village, the largest of the villages of this dialect, consists of twenty-four houses and about one-hundred inhabitants, and is located on land belonging to the Indians themselves. Here are to be found inhabitants of nearly all the old villages of the Upper Lake division as well as a few individuals from the Big Valley division. In addition to the number of houses mentioned there are in all nineteen other buildings, mostly barns, as many of the Indians keep horses and poultry. There is a large dance-house built a few years ago on modern plans. It is octagonal in form, entirely above ground, and is built of ordinary lumber. A school is maintained here under the auspices of the Methodist Episcopal church.

Bank ranch, on the northeastern shore of Clear lake at a point about six miles southeast of the town of Upper Lake. This village consists of six houses and about twenty inhabitants.

Old Village Sites.

kabe'l, or xabe'l in the Eastern dialect, from kabē', rock. This site, which was mentioned when treating of the villages in the Northern dialectic area, lies on the eastern slope of a prominent point, called Rocky Point, which projects some distance from the western shore of the channel connecting the main body of Clear lake with its northern arm. There is some doubt as to whether this was in the strictest sense a village. One informant says that on the higher ground was the site of a winter camp, and down by the shore a summer camp, the entire settlement thus falling into the class of camps. Other informants also refer to the place as a


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camp-site, while some call it a village. At all events it seems quite certain that however the site may be classed, there were at all times a certain number of people living at it, and that for this reason it may be considered a village. The control of the place and surrounding territory seems to have been left to the Scott's valley people, who spoke the Northern dialect, and it may therefore be considered as having belonged to them. The Scott's valley people did not, however, exercise any exclusive jurisdiction over the place, the people of the Upper Lake region coming and going at will and enjoying fishing and hunting rights equally with the Scott's valley people. For this reason the settlement may be considered part of the Eastern as well as the Northern dialectic area. Indicative of this community of interest the boundary line between the Northern and Eastern dialectic areas has been drawn on the map through the village site itself. This was evidently a place of considerable importance in former times, as it is often spoken of by the old Indians in relating the early history of this section and is frequently referred to in myths.

yō'būtūi, from yō, south, and bū'tū, knoll, near the west bank of Scott's creek at a point about two miles south-southwest of the town of Upper Lake. This site, which is now occupied by the present small village of the same name, was once occupied by a large and populous village which is often mentioned in the myths of the region in connection with maiyī', another old site located a short distance to the north.

kūca'danōyō, from kūca', live oak, danō', mountain, and yō, under, on the south bank of Scott's creek at a point about a mile and a half southwest of the town of Upper Lake and about a quarter of a mile north of yō'būtūi.

xō'walek, in Upper Lake valley at a point a short distance west of Middle creek and about three-quarters of a mile northwest of the town of Upper Lake.Slocum, Bowen and Company, op. cit., Lake County, p. 35, say: "The Quoi-lak, or Hwoi-lak, tribe was located just north of the town of Upper Lake, and near the residence of Benjamin Dewell. They numbered one hundred and twenty, but have only fifty now. Da-mot was their chief." Also (p. 37) a translation of the name is given, as follows: "Hwoi-lak, a city of fire." One informant, a woman from the Upper Lake valley, says that da-mō't was the name of one of the captains of the old village of xo'walek.


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danō'xa, from danō', mountain, and xa, water, in the foot-hills about two miles northeast of the town of Upper Lake. This site is on the western slope of a hill overlooking the lake. Slocum, Bowen and Company undoubtedly refer to this village, the name of which they give as "Di-noo-ha-vah,""The Di-noo-ha-vah tribe were on the north side of the head of Clear lake, but farther east than the last named," referring to xō'wallek. "They numbered one hundred, and are now reduced to about forty. Goo-ke was their chief."—Op. cit., Lake County, p. 35. Also (p. 37) a translation of the name is given, as follows: "Di-noo-ha-vah, a city built in the cut (cañon) of a mountain." One informant, a woman from the Upper Lake valley, says that her uncle gūkī' was a captain of the old village of danō'xa. and it is probable that the same village is referred to by MasonProfessor Mason in giving the interpretations of Pomo basket designs, as furnished to the U. S. National Museum by Dr. J. W. Hudson, says, "Danokakea, Mountain Waters tribe," and speaks of them as "once living six miles north of Upper Lake, in the mountains on the headwaters of McClure creek, and a close affinity and neighbor of the Pomo of Potter Valley."—Abor. Amer. Basketry, op. cit., p. 328. It seems probable that this is the same village as danō'xa, although located some distance from that site as here given and spoken of as affiliated with the Potter valley people, which those of danō'xa were not. as "Danokakea."

danō'co, from danō' mountain, and cō, east, about half a mile east of danō'xa and on the eastern slope of the same hill.

dīwī'lem, from dīwī', coyote, and īle'm, flat (?), on a small knoll a quarter of a mile southeast of the town of Upper Lake. The present residence on the Rice Estate stands on this site.

behe'pal, from behe', pepperwood or California laurel, Umbellularia Californica, and pal, ?, at the foot of the hills on the eastern side of Upper Lake valley at a point about three-quarters of a mile east of the town of Upper Lake. The site is near the ranch house on what is known as the "old" George Bucknell ranch. This village, which is also occasionally called ga'behe, from ga, house, and behe', California laurel, was also occupied in more recent times, there being a large village here about thirtyfive years ago. This village was the scene of a great ceremony at about that time, the Indians from various parts of the region even as far west as the coast having gathered about the lake to await the end of the world. The ceremony was one introduced from the Sacramento valley region, several shamans from the vicinity of Grand Island having been brought over to conduct it. The series of ceremonies which was celebrated at this time extended more or less continuously over a period of about two


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years, the principal ones being held at xa'dalam on Kelsey creek in Big valley. At behe'pal a large dance-house of special form for the celebration of these ceremonies was built. It would appear that these beliefs and practices were the result of the ghostdance movement which influenced other Indians of northern California and Nevada in the early seventies.

badō'nnapōtī, badō'n, island, napō', village, tī, old, on the southern slope of BloodyBloody island receives its name from a battle, known as the Bloody island massacre, fought between the Indians of the Clear lake vicinity and troops in 1850. The Indians made a stand on this island, but were attacked by water, their retreat being cut off by land, with the result that a great number were killed. Although this is called an island it is not completely surrounded by water except during the rainy season, and is accessible by trails through the marshes on the north during the greater portion of the year. Gibbs (Schoolcraft, III, 109) refers to this island as "Battle island." or Upper Lake island, situated at the extreme northern end of Upper lake. The people of this village seem to have lived either here or at danō'xa as they chose. This and danō'xa were not, however, camps, but permanently established villages. This site is used at present by the Indians in the vicinity of Upper Lake as a fishing camp during certain seasons of the year.

cīwa', on the eastern shore of Upper Lake near its northern extremity. This site is almost due east of Upper Lake island. According to one informant the name cīwa' is not a word taken from the ordinary language, but is a name given to this site by Coyote when it was a village occupied by the race of bird people who inhabited the earth before the coming of the present Indians.

kakū'lkalewīcal, from kakū'l, white oak, kale', tree and wīca'l, ridge, or bō'tar, on the eastern shore of Upper lake at a point about a mile northeast of the strait joining Upper lake with the main body of Clear lake.

La'xpūtsūm, from Lax, opening or inlet, and pū'tsūm, point, on the eastern shore of Clear lake at the end of the point which projects from the east to separate Upper lake from the main body of Clear lake at the strait which joins the two. Along the shore of Clear lake in this vicinity there is at some little distance from the shore a line of tule. There was a narrow passage through this where canoes entered from the open water of the lake to the landing place on the shore adjacent to the village, and it was


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this passage or inlet through the tule which gave the village its name.

ha'līka, from ha'lī, the edible fleshy covering of the nut of the California laurel, Umbellularia Californica, on the northeastern shore of the main body of Clear lake and at a point about seven miles southeast of the town of Upper lake and half a mile southeast of the present Bank Ranch village.

cī'gōm, on the northeastern shore of Clear lake at a point near Morrison's Landing, and about two miles southeast of the present Bank Ranch village. GibbsSchoolcraft, III, 109. mentions the "She-kom" as one of the "tribes" living on the shores of Clear lake, as does also M'Kee,Senate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 136. who spells the name "Che-com." Slocum, Bowen and Company also mention these people as the "She-gum-ba tribe.""The She-gum-ba tribe lived across the lake from Lakeport, where Mr. Morrison now resides. They once numbered one hundred and sixty, but only about fifteen of them are left now. Leu-te-ra was their chief."—Op. cit., Lake County, p. 35. Also (p. 37) a translation of the name is given, as follows: "She-gum-ba, a city built across the lake."

taa'wīna, from ta or taa', sand, and wīna', upon, or taa'yaxa, on the southern slope of a small ridge called tsawa'lxabē, from tsawa'l, a species of fish, and xabē', rock, which is just north of what is known as Bald mountain, kitsī'danō. This site is about four and a half miles south-southeast of the present Bank Ranch village.

Old Camp Sites. All the camps about the shores of these lakes were primarily for the purpose of fishing, and seem not to have been occupied to any extent except during the special fishing season.

gala'iakalēyō, from gala'i, a kind of water bird, kalē', tree, and yō, under, on the western shore of Upper lake at a point about a mile north-northwest of the old village of kabe'l at Rocky point. This camp was used chiefly for fishing and hunting water birds.

pōli'tsūwi, on the western shore of Upper lake at a point about three and a half miles south-southwest of the town of Upper Lake.

mate'lnapōtī, from mate'l, spliced(?), napō', village, and tī, old, on the eastern shore of Upper lake at a point probably about three and three-quarters miles south-southeast of the town of Upper lake.


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Modern Camp Sites.

napō'cal, from napō', village, and ca, fish, or danō'bidaū, from danō', mountain, and bida'ū, low, on the Western shore of Upper lake at its northern extremity. The place is also called Fish-camp by both whites and Indians.

badō'nnapōtī, from badō'n, island, napō', village, and tī, old, on the southern slope of Bloody or Upper Lake island, situated at the extreme northern end of Upper lake. This present-day camp-site is also the site of a former village.See badō'nnapōtī, p. 189 and note 201.

Big Valley Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

Mission, on the lands of St. Turibius missionMission St. Turibius was founded by Rev. Luciano Osuna in 1870, in which year he secured 160 acres of land on the southern shore of Clear lake. Since 1887 the Franciscan Fathers have maintained their charge of the mission continuously. At present the buildings of the mission consist of a newly erected church, a residence for the missionaries, an old church, which was used as such for many years but is now used as a school building, and barns and other farm out-buildings. on the west bank of hī'tcbīdame or Kelsey creek, or about three miles north of the town of Kelseyville. This village has an Indian name, xa'-gacō-bagil, water pond long: but it is rarely used, the village being usually called, by both whites and Indians, "The Mission." It contains eleven houses and about sixty inhabitants, mostly from the old villages of Big valley. As some of the Indians keep horses, there are also four barns, making in all fifteen buildings, exclusive of course of the church and other mission buildings which stand at some distance from the Indian village itself.

Old Village Sites.

It appears that a very unusual grouping of villages into something bordering upon political unity formerly existed in Big valley. Within this valley there lived people speaking two distinct languages, the Pomo and the Yukian Wappo. The latter lived on the extreme eastern border and were but very few in number. These formed to a certain extent a distinct group politically. The remainder of the valley, however, although occupied by people speaking the same language, seems to have been


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divided into two distinct political groups, the kūLa'napō from kūLa', water-lily, and napō', village, and the kabē'napō from kabē', rock, and napō, village. The former held the territory from the vicinity of Lakeport around to Adobe creek, the latter that from Adobe creek eastward to the interstock boundary between the Eastern Pomo and the Clear Lake Wappo. There appears to have been a definitely recognized grouping of the villages included within each of these areas into the above named units, which grouping was, of course, not so much for governmental purposes as for the common interests of offense and defense. There appear to have been at times differences between the kūLa'napō and the kabē'napo which were settled by fighting, while at other times the two groups joined forces in some common cause. As an instance of this latter there is a story told concerning the diverting of the waters of Kelsey creek which, according to the Indians, formerly ran northwestward from the old village of bida'mīwīna instead of, as now, northeastward, and emptied into the lake at the little projecting point where the camp site of La'xpūtsūm is located. On the map there appears a small stream running into the lake at this point and the Indians say that a depression marking the connection between the head of this stream and Kelsey creek is plainly visible, showing where Kelsey creek formerly ran to the lake by this course. The Indians say that when Kelsey and Cole creeks emptied into the lake separately there were two species of fish, hītc and tcai, of which the former ran up Kelsey creek only and the latter up Cole creek only, and from these two species of fish the creeks take their names, hī'tcbīdame and tca'ibīdame, respectively. The people living on and to the east of Cole creek were able to obtain the hītc only from or by the permission of the kabē'napō in whose territory Kelsey creek ran, and they were very anxious to have these fish run up Cole creek as well as Kelsey creek, and therefore proposed to change the channel of one of the streams so that the two would flow together. This was opposed by the kabē'napō and the matter was agitated until an open war was the result. In this the Wappo were assisted by the Southeastern Pomo, at least those of the Southeastern Pomo who were near neighbors, and the kabē'napō were assisted by the kūLa'napō. The matter was, however, not
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settled until there came a very high water in the creeks in the winter, at which time a few of the people from the Wappo village of dala'danō went over with digging sticks to Kelsey creek and there dug through the eastern bank at a very low point which connected by a natural depression in the floor of the valley with Cole creek, thus starting the water of Kelsey creek to flow in that direction. With this start it soon dug for itself a large channel and has since flowed into Cole creek at a point about a quarter of a mile from its mouth. The purpose of the Wappo was accomplished by this, for now both kinds of fish run up both streams. This is said to have occurred 90 years or more ago. On the other hand it is possible that the story is a mythical account of cause for an observed effect, namely, the fact that these two streams do now flow into each other near their mouth. Be this as it may, the story indicates that at times when there was a common cause in which to engage, the kūLa'napō and the kab'ē'napō did join forces, but on most occasions they seem to have kept apart more or less, maintaining distinct territorial boundaries and distinct governments; and it should also be noted that they kept apart to a certain extent after the coming of the whites to this region. Professor A. L. Kroeber has also obtained information from a Clear lake Indian now living at the Round valley reservation to the effect that there was a division of the people into two groups such as are above mentioned. Such a division and grouping of villages is, as has been said, very much out of the ordinary among the Pomo and it seems very likely that the division in this case arose originally at a time of internal trouble, as for instance difficulties arising over hunting or fishing rights, and that this division of the people of the valley into two units, more properly factions than stable political unions, continued to exist after the particular point at issue had been settled, though there is no probability that anything like a true confederation ever existed among the villages of either group.

Some informants give each of these names as that of a separate village and they were among the first Pomo village names to come into print. kūLa'napō is first mentioned by Gibbs,Schoolcraft, III, 109. who gives the "Hula-napo" as one of the "tribes" present at a council with


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Colonel M'Kee on the shores of Clear lake, and laterIbid., p. 421. when treating of languages, he says, "Kula-napo. The name of one of the Clear lake bands. The language is spoken by all the tribes occupying the large valley." From this name Powell, following his principles of nomenclature, made the stock name KulanapanInd. Ling. Fam., p. 87. which he applied to all the Pomo. Slocum, Bowen and CompanyOp. cit., Lake County, p. 35. say of this village, "The Hoo-la-nap-o tribe was just below the present site of Lakeport, on the place formerly owned by Dr. J. S. Downes. At one time there were two hundred and twenty warriors, and five hundred all told in the rancheria. They are now reduced to sixty. Sal-vo-di-no was their chief before the present one, Augustine." They also translate this name as "lily village." The name has been used by others with different orthographies, as: "Kura-napo, water-lily village"Mason, op. cit., p. 329. Given upon the authority of Dr. J. W. Hudson. and "Palanapo,"Purdy, Land of Sunshine, XV, 442. which is later corrected to "Talanapo"Purdy's reprinted edition of "Pomo Indian Baskets and Their Makers," p. 9, Los Angeles, 1902. and defined as "Pond Lily People." Powers does not mention this village particularly, but gives "Ka-bi-na-pek"Tribes of California, p. 204. (kabē'-napō) as a typical village "of the many in Big Valley." Kabenapo is also first mentioned by Gibbs,Schoolcraft, III, pp. 109, 110. by whom it is called "Habe-napo," meaning "stone house," and it is given as one of the six large villages, designated by Gibbs as "tribes" or "bands," in Big valley. M'KeeSenate Ex. Doc., op. cit., p. 136. mentions two of the "tribes" about Clear lake, viz: the "Ca-ba-na-po" and the "Ha-bi-na-pa," either one or both of which are probably meant for the kabē'napō. LaterIbid., p. 139. he states the numbers of these peoples as one hundred and ninety-five and eighty-four respectively. The name given by Slocum, Bowen and Company"The Ha-be-nap-o tribe were located at the mouth of Kelsey creek, on the north side. They numbered three hundred, but only about forty of them are left. Ba-cow-shum was their chief."—Op. cit., Lake County, p. 35. The name is translated, "a city of rocks." is the same as that used by Gibbs. PowersTribes of Cal., p. 204. locates
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the village, which he calls "Ka-bi-na-pek," on lower Kelsey creek, and Powell,Op. cit., p. 88. probably following Powers, also mentions it under this name. Mason,Aboriginal American Basketry, op. cit., p. 329. upon the authority of Dr. J. W. Hudson, uses "Kabe napo" with the translation of "Rock village." LaterIbid., p. 368. he uses also "Kabinapo." PurdyLand of Sunshine, XV, 442 seq. Also Purdy's reprinted edition, op. cit., p. 7. uses "Kabenapo" with the translation of "Rock People" GibbsSchoolcraft, III, 110. in speaking of the people of Big valley gives them collectively the name "Na'-po-bati'n, or many houses," and says: "The name `Lu-pa-yu-ma,'The name given to the camp of Colonel M'Kee's party at Clear lake was "Camp Lupiyuma."—Senate Ex. Doc., op. cit., pp. 136 seq. which, in the language of the tribe living at Coyote valley, on Putos river, signifies the same as Habe-napo, is applied by the Indians in that direction to these bands, but is not recognized by themselves." This is clearly a Moquelumnan term, as lū'pû, signifying rock, occurs frequently in Moquelumnan village names. Moreover, the Moquelumnan name of the old village at Duncan's point, near Bodega bay, is lippūla'mma, which is the same word as that used by Gibbs. TaylorCalifornia Farmer, March 30, 1860, San Francisco, Cal. says, "On the borders of Clear lake lived the Lopillamillos or Lupilomis," and BaileyRept. Comm. Ind. Aff. for 1858, p. 304. in his report upon the Indians of the Clear lake region, says, "Upon the Lupillomi ranch,The Lupillomi ranch here referred to is the old Lup-Yomi rancho, a large Mexican land grant about the shores of Clear lake. (Slocum, Bowen and Company, op. cit., Lake County, p. 41.) The original grant appears to have been made to four persons, and the expediente called for thirty-two square leagues of land, including the whole of Clear lake and the surrounding land. A petition was filed in 1853 by the two Vallejo brothers for the confirmation of a grant of sixteen leagues, one-half of the original cession, known as the Laguna de Lup-Yomi. The petition was denied. The name Lupillomi ranch remained, however, for many years after the American occupation. near Clear lake, there are some three hundred Indians." The name "Lopillamillos" is also mentioned by Bancroft.Native Races, I, 363.

bōo'mlī, to hunt around (named from the fact that there were many deer in the mountains immediately west of this site and it


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was therefore a good hunting ground), in the town of Lakeport on the knoll where the Bellvenue hotel now stands.

kacī'badōn, from kacī', a water plant said to somewhat resemble bamboo, and badō'n, island, just within the southern limit of the town of Lakeport, on the western shore of Clear lake. The village was located on the eastern slope of a knoll immediately south of the Lakeport flour mill. Just off shore at this point there is a small island upon which the plant kacī' grew, thus giving to the place its name. The first trading post in the region about Clear lake was established at this village, the trader taking baskets, beads, and such other articles as the Indians made, in exchange for his goods.

katō'tnapōtī, from katō't, shucks (the thin inner shell) of the nut of the California laurel, napō', village, and tī, old, near the east bank of a small stream known as Rumsey's slough, tsīwi'cbidame, Carex creek, and at a point about three miles southwest of the present village at St. Turibius mission.

cabē'gok, on both banks of the small stream which empties into Clear lake at the old camp site of La'xpūtsūm. This name is more particularly applied to the eastern of the two sites. Col. Redick M'Kee, United States Indian Agent, who visited Big Valley August 17-21, 1851, made his camp in this immediate vicinity. According to one informant he camped at this village site, while according to another his camp was at se'dīleū just north. During the previous year a party of troops under Captain Lyons had visited this region for the purpose of taking vengeance upon the Indians for what is commonly spoken of as the Stone and Kelsey massacre. They had passed through Big valley, which was at that time practically deserted, and had come up with the Indians toward the head of Clear lake, killing a large number on what is known as Upper Lake or Bloody island, thence passing over to the Russian river valley and back to San Francisco bay. The Indians say that Col. M'Kee, in endeavoring to reestablish friendly relations with them, distributed presents of blankets, beads, axes, saws, and various other articles among them, and set aside as a reservation for their use that portion of Big valley lying between what is known as McGough slough (which lies about a quarter of a mile west of se'dīleū) on the west and Cole creek on


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the east, and extending indefinitely into the hills toward the south. He gave a writing to the two captains hū'lyō and perīē'tō which the Indians understood to be a deed to this land. It is known that Col. M'Kee did at this time tentatively set apart a tract of land on the southern and western shores of Clear lake for reservation purposes, but this was never ratified and nothing further was done about the establishment of the reservation at Clear lake.For a full account of Col. M'Kee's visit see Senate Ex. Doc., No. 4, 32d Cong., spec. sess., 136-142, 1853.

hma'ragīmōwīna, from hma'rak, dance-house, mō, hole, and wina', on top of, near the west bank of Kelsey creek on what is known as the Lamb ranch and at a point about a mile south-southwest of the present village at St. Turibius mission.

xa'gacōbagil, from xa, water, gacō', pond, and bagi'l, long, where the present village at St. Turibius mission is located. There seems to be some doubt as to whether this was a regularly inhabited village, but there were people living here at least during the summer and it was used as a boat landing throughout the year.

bīda'miwīna, from bīda'mi, creek, and wīna', upon or close to, on the east bank of Kelsey creek at a point about a mile and three-quarters down stream from the town of Kelseyville. According to one informant the site here called līcū'ī-kale-xōwa, black-oak tree in-front-of, which is here given as an uninhabited modern village site, is an old village site and was called bīda'mi-wīna. This however seems doubtful.

nō'napōtī, from nō, ashes, napō', village, and tī, old, in the eastern part of the town of Kelseyville. By most informants this is said to have been a very large permanent village inhabited by the Indians, but one informant says that it was a village inhabited only by mythical people, none of the present race of Indians ever having lived here. In corroboration of this it should be observed that this village is mentioned frequently in the myths of this region; but on the other hand white settlers say that there were old dance and sweat-house pits plainly visible here up to a few years ago, and it seems very probable that this is the site of one of the regular old villages of this region.


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Some Indians say that this was the original home of the kabē'napō, but that it had not been inhabited for many years before the arrival of the first explorers. When Messrs. Kelsey and Stone got control of the ranch in Big valley in 1847 they assembled at Kelseyville all the Indians of this vicinity. The kabē'napō lived at nō'napōtī and the kūLa'napō with others lived near the ranch house, an old adobe built at līcū'īkalexōwa on the west bank of Kelsey creek. The ranch above referred to is the Lupillomi rancho for which Captain Salvador Vallejo in 1836 applied, in the name of himself, his brother Antonio, and two others, to the Mexican government. This grant comprised thirty-two leagues of land, embracing Big, Scott's, Upper Lake, and Bachelor valleys and adjacent mountains. Whether this tract was in reality ceded to him is not known, but he took possession and placed a major-domo and ten vaqueros in charge of a herd of cattle in Big valley about the year 1840. In 1847 Messrs. Stone and Kelsey came to take possession of the cattle and the establishment, they with others having bought the Vallejos' interest in Big valley. They built an adobe house on the west bank of Kelsey creek, as above mentioned, where they resided until 1849, when they were killed by the Indians, which incident has been known as the Stone and Kelsey massacre.

Uninhabited Modern Village Sites.

xada'būtūn, from xa, water, da, ?, and būtū, knoll, at a point about a mile and three-quarters south-southeast of the town of Lakeport.

xalībe'm, on the east bank of Adobe creek at a point about two and a quarter miles northwest of the town of Kelseyville. Some years ago by a concerted action upon the part of nearly all the Indians of Big valley a small tract of land about this village site was purchased by them, the first payment only, however, being made upon it. After two years they found themselves unable to complete the payments on the land and were obliged to move.

ma'natōl, near the east bank of Adobe creek at a point about two miles west-northwest of the town of Kelseyville. According to one informant this is not the name of a village site but that of


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a large field. This informant, however, is a young man and may have confused this as the name of a field with kale-winī'-yō, tree large-swelled-knot under, which is the name of a locality immediately north of ma'natōl.

se'dīleū, from se or see', brush, and dīle', in the midst of, at a point about three-quarters of a mile back from the lake shore and about a mile a little south of west of the present village at St. Turibius mission.

xa'ikalōlise, from xai, wood, kalō'li, dry, and se, brush or thicket, at a point about half a mile south-southeast of the present village at St. Turibius mission. It is said that this village was inhabited for only four or five years.

sō"bīdame, from sō, clover, and bīda'me, creek, on a small wet-weather slough at a point about three-quarters of a mile a little west of south of the present village at St. Turibius mission. It appears that this site was also used to a limited extent, probably as a camping place, before the arrival of white settlers, as the Indians say that some of their number were taken from here to the missions about San Francisco bay when these were established. This undoubtedly means that the Franciscan Fathers visited Clear lake very soon after the establishment of Sonoma mission, to which, in all probability, the above mentioned Indians were induced to move.

There is an uninhabited modern village site near the west bank of Kelsey creek and at a point about a mile southeast of the present village at St. Turibius mission. This site is on the ranch belonging to Mr. Robert Gaddy and appears to have been one of those inhabited not long after the coming of white settlers to the region. It was, however, not inhabited for very long, as a severe epidemic of whooping cough which took off many of the Indians caused them to move to another location.

xa'dalam, from xa, water, and dala'm, dam, on what is known as the Clark ranch on the west bank of Kelsey creek at a point about a mile south of the present village at St. Turibius mission. As nearly as may be judged, the Indians moved here about 1870 and remained for two years or perhaps a little longer. During this time an important ceremony which was introduced from Sacramento valley was held. An exceptionally large dance-house was


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built, the diameter of the pit being measured by eight lengths of a certain very tall Indian lying upon the ground with his arms stretched over his head as far as possible. Shamans were brought from Grand Island on the Sacramento river and the Indians from the whole region even as far west as the coast assembled here to celebrate this ceremony and await the end of the world which was expected immediately. They are said by the whites to have numbered upwards of three or four thousand in all, and the celebrations at this place lasted nearly a year, after which part of their number moved to behe'pal near Upper lake where the ceremonies were continued.

līcū'īkalexōwa, from līcū'ī, black oak, kale', tree, and xō'wa, in front of, ?, on the west bank of Kelsey creek directly opposite the present town of Kelseyville. With the coming of Messrs. Stone and Kelsey to this vicinity in 1847 the Indians of the neighborhood were assembled at and near Kelseyville. The kūLa'napō and certain others settled at this site.

Old Camp Sites.

tsīwi'cbīdamīnapōtī, from tsīwi'c, Carex, bīda'me, creek, napō, village, and tī, old, on the southern shore of Clear lake at a point about three miles west of the present village at St. Turibius mission. The immediate lake shore in this vicinity is thickly covered with tule but at this point there is a slight elevation in the tule and it is upon this elevation that the camp site is located. This site is located between the two streams bō'-xa-bīdame, west water creek, known locally to the whites as Woolridge's slough, and tsīwi'c-bīdame, Carex creek, known locally to the whites as Rumsey's slough, which lies but a very short distance east of Woolridge's slough. This elevation in the tule was so small that at times there was not sufficient room here for those who wished to camp, in which case some camped at tsa'lal just east of tsīwi'cbīdame.

tsa'lal, on the southern shore of Clear lake at a point about two and a half miles west of the present village at St. Turibius mission and on the east bank of a small stream called locally Rumsey's slough.


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batsō'mkītem, from batsō'm, a species of oak, and kīte'm, said to signify a bushy top, on the southern shore of Clear lake at a point about two and a quarter miles west of the present village at St. Turibius mission.

nō'būtū, from nō, ashes, and būtū, knoll, on the southern shore of Clear lake at a point near the west bank of Adobe creek and about two miles west of the present village at St. Turibius mission.

Laxpūtsūm, from Lax, an opening or inlet, and pū'tsūm, point, on a point which projects into Clear lake from its southern shore about a mile west of the present village at St. Turibius mission. According to informants the small stream shown on the map as running near this site flows in reality in the former bed of Kelsey creek which was diverted by the Indians so as to flow into Cole creek.

batsū'mīse, from batsū'm or batsō'n, a species of oak, and se or see', brush, at a point about three-quarters of a mile west-southwest of the present village at St. Turibius mission.

tsūba'hapūtsūm, from tsūba'ha, a species of willow used in basket making, and pū'tsūm, point, on the southern shore of Clear lake at a point about half a mile west of the mouth of Kelsey creek. This camp takes its name from a grove of willows on a point projecting for a short distance into the lake. There is also near this place a grove of cottonwoods in which there are a number of blue heron nests. This grove is called makō'kale, from makō', blue heron, and kale', tree. According to one informant this is the name of a camp at this point but according to another it is simply applied to the grove of cottonwoods above mentioned which are situated a little distance out in the tule.

On the east bank of Kelsey creek at a point about a mile and a half up stream from the town of Kelseyville there is the site of an old camp, the name of which could not be recalled by the informant. This site has not been inhabited since an indefinite date, probably in the first part of the last century, as nearly as may be judged from the probable ages of certain individuals connected with the following story. This site was used as that of a fish camp by the kabē'napo, who then lived at nō'napōtī, and was located on a side hill with no water in the immediate vicinity


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except that which flowed in the creek itself. There was here a fish dam or weir with the usual scaffold upon which the fishermen stood with their dip nets when fishing. A certain young man had been warned by his father that when fishing here at night if he should see sparks in the water up the creek he must leave the dam immediately, as these sparks indicated the approach of a hūk, a mythical bird with supernatural powers for evil.The hūk is a mythical bird much dreaded, by some even to the present day, as it has the power of bringing immediate or future death, as well as bad luck in general. It is about the size of a turkey buzzard, is a brown or brick red in color with rather long and fine feathers, the quills of which are filled with a reddish liquid which flows from end to end if the feathers are turned up and down. According to some informants this liquid always flows up hill. Its legs are short and very heavy, both legs and feet being covered with hair. The head also is very large and covered with a fuzzy coat, while its bill is curved somewhat like that of a parrot. One of the surest signs of death is to hear one of these birds, particularly at night. Their cry is "hūk" and death is sure to follow the unfortunate hearer in as many years as the bird cries "hūk" at him, provided of course he is not immediately doctored in the proper manner. The young man, however, did not credit the warning of his father and boasted that there was nothing in or about the creek of which he was afraid. One night his father was fishing on the scaffold and the young man told him to go into the house; that he would relieve him and fish for a while. He had not fished long when a hūk came down the stream and he immediately caught it in his dip net, took it ashore and killed it with a fish club. He went home and to bed without making any disposition of the fish which he had caught or of the hūk which he had killed. In the morning he was found dead by his mother. His father immediately suspected the truth and went to the fish dam, where he found the dead bird. The fear then arose that the young man's action would also bring destruction upon the whole camp and possibly even upon the home village as well, and the father immediately went to nō'napōtī for me'nakī, a famous shaman. After discussing the matter with the dead man's relatives it was decided that me'nakī should cut the bird into halves, one of which should be cremated, the other being hidden on the summit of Clark's peak, a prominent point on the western slope of Mt. Kanaktai. Accordingly after performing an elaborate ceremony to prevent the poison of the bird injuring the people, me'nakī cut the bird into halves and with further elaborate ceremony placed one-half upon
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a funeral pyre prepared especially for the purpose. After the pyre had burned completely, what charred fragments of the bird's bones remained were collected, as is done in the case of the cremation of human beings. In this case the bones were placed in a fine basket and buried near the place of cremation. On the following morning they returned to the site of the cremation and found that notwithstanding the fact that some fire remained among the ashes certain spots were very moist. These presently became more moist and finally there was water standing in the little pit which had been dug before the fire was built. This water increased in volume until it finally ran over the side of the pit and became a large living spring, and all this in spite of the fact that formerly the whole hillside had been absolutely dry so far as any spring or seepage of water from it was concerned. It was thought that this spring was directly due to the poison of the hūk and the camp was immediately abandoned and has never since been occupied. The spring still flows at this spot. The other half of the hūk was taken by me'nakī to the summit of Clark's peak and hidden where it remains to the present time. Consequently Clark's peak is a place never visited except by a shaman who knows the proper songs and ritual to prevent injury to himself and people. me'nakī was able to visit this peak at will and made use of the feathers of the hūk in poisoning people, as did also a few other shamans. This poisoning was accomplished by touching the victim with the quill of one of the hūk feathers in such a manner that a little of the red liquid contained therein would come in contact with his person. This produced sure and swift death.

tsa'nmamaū, near the east bank of Kelsey creek at a point about four miles up stream from the town of Kelseyville.

kawō'axa, from kawō, toad, and xa, water or spring, at a point about a quarter of a mile due east of Highland Springs, on the headwaters of Adobe creek. Certain of the springs at this resort are hot and it seems to have been these that brought the Indians to this camp. The springs were known to the Indians to possess medicinal qualities, and those afflicted with certain ailments camped at kawō'axa, from which place they could easily go to the springs, the water of which they drank and also bathed in.


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xa'ikaiyaū, in a small valley at the head of Adobe creek and at a point about two and a half miles southeast of Highland Springs.

Near the head of Cole creek and at a point about a mile east of Carlsbad Springs is the site of an old camp the name of which could not be recalled by the informant. This site is near some springs known as Mackentyre springs.

Southeastern Dialect.

Boundaries.

From a point on the Pomo-Wintun interstock boundary nearly due east of the old village of cī'gōm, on the eastern shore of the main body of Clear lake, the boundary of the Southeastern dialectic area, which is here also the interstock boundary, follows the divide separating Long Valley and Bartlett creeks from Clear lake, to Cache creek at a point about four miles from its source, the southern extremity of Lower lake. This portion of the boundary runs in a northwesterly and southeasterly direction and separates this dialectic area from the territory of the Wintun which extends eastward into the Sacramento valley. From here the boundary turns in a general westerly direction and follows Cache creek up to the lake, and then on in the same direction to the summit of the range connecting Mt. Kanaktai with Mt. St. Helena. The territory to the south of this line was held by people speaking the Northern Moquelumnan dialect. At this point the boundary turns in a general northerly direction and runs northward along this range toward Mt. Kanaktai for a very short distance, coming to the southern boundary of the Clear Lake Wappo area near where it turns northward to form the eastern boundary of that area. It follows this boundary with its northerly trend through the mountains immediately to the east of the higher range connecting Mt. Kanaktai with Mt. St. Helena, passes along the eastern slope of Mt. Kanaktai and finally runs into Clear lake at a point probably about a mile east of Soda Bay. It runs on in this same direction for a short distance to a point near the northern limit of jurisdiction of the Clear Lake


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Wappo.See note 194. From here it takes a more easterly course, coming to the lake shore at Bald mountain, and then running on in a northeasterly direction to the point of origin on the Pomo-Wintun interstock boundary about due east of the old village of cī'gōm. The southern extremity of this portion of the boundary separates the Southeastern from the Eastern Pomo dialectic area, while the central part separates the Southeastern Pomo from the Clear Lake Wappo territory. The northern half of this portion of the boundary separates the Eastern and Southeastern dialectic areas.

This small, roughly triangular area is adjacent on the east to the Wintun, on the south to the Northern Moquelumnan, and on the west and northwest to the Eastern Pomo and the Clear Lake Wappo territory.

General Description.

The greater part of the land surface of this area is high and rugged and totally unfit for habitation. There are, however, occasional short, level stretches along the shores of the lake, and there are a few small valleys in the surrounding hills and mountains. These were sometimes used for village and camp sites particularly for hunting and food-gathering; but the chief permanent villages seem to have been located on the islands in the lake. Like the Eastern Pomo, these people lived largely by fishing and hunting water birds.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

Lower Lake Rancheria, on the north bank of Cache creek at a point about three-quarters of a mile from its source and about a mile and a half northeast of the town of Lower Lake. This village consists of four houses and about nineteen inhabitants, most of whom came originally from the old village of kō'ī on Lower Lake island.

xûna'dai, from xûna, tule boat or balsa, and dai, landing, commonly called the Sulphur Bank rancheria, on the eastern shore of East lake, the eastern arm of Clear lake, and at a point about half a mile north of the Sulphur Bank quicksilver mine. This village, consisting of eleven houses and about thirty-five inhabitants, is situated on the immediate lake shore opposite the


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site of the former village of e'lem on Rattlesnake or Sulphur Bank island. There is here a sudatory of the old type which is in present use, and a very large old dance-house in ruins, no dances having been held in it for several years and no attempt made to keep it in repair. This village site is at a point on the shore which was used in aboriginal times as a boat landing, this being a convenient place to draw the tule canoes up on shore. There was never a very extensive village at this place but it appears that it was used permanently to a certain extent, the principal village, however, being on the adjacent island. Its present occupancy as a permanent village dates back about thirty-five or possibly forty years.

Old Village Sites.

ca'kai, on the northwestern point of the peninsula which projects northward from the southern shore of Clear lake and forms the strait which separates the main body of Clear lake from East and Lower lakes to the southeast.

ke'celwai, from ke'cel, blue clay, wai, said to be an ejaculation, on the southern shore of the strait connecting the main body of Clear lake with East and Lower lakes and at a point about a quarter of a mile northeast of the last mentioned site.

tcīyō'lkitLalī, on the northeast point of the peninsula which projects from the southern shore of Clear lake and forms the strait which separates the main body of Clear lake from East and Lower lakes.

k!ale'liyō, on the western shore of East lake at a point just southwest of the island, known as Buckingham's island, upon which the site of the old village of ka'mdōt is located.

ka'mdōt, or le'makma or ka'ūgū'maThis name is also applied to the people living at e'lem. See also note 239. (Eastern Pomo dialect names), on a small island, called Buckingham's island, near the western shore of East lake and close to the peninsula which separates East lake from the main body of Clear lake. One informant says that ka'mdōt is applied also to Mt. Kanaktai.

tsiwī', on the western shore of East lake just northeast of the small body of water known as Little Borax lake. The eastern side of Mt. Kanaktai is formed by very high and steep rocky cliffs


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which curve in such a manner as to resemble somewhat the form of an amphitheater, the pit of which is bounded on the east by East lake and is occupied principally by Little Borax lake. These cliffs were called kno'ktaiknōyōwa, from knō, mountain, tai or ktai, said to be an old woman, kno, mountain, and yō'wa, under, and were with the immediately surrounding hills much used as hunting grounds. The reference to an old woman in this name appears to be a mythological one.

kō'i, xō'yī, cūta'ūyōmanūk (Northern Pomo name), kaūbō'-kōlai (Eastern Pomo name), or tūlī (Northern Moquelumnan and Southerly Wintun name), on the eastern slope of the small, low island called Lower Lake island at the extreme southern end of Lower lake, the southern arm of Clear lake. This was a large village and probably only a little smaller than the one on Sulphur Bank island in East lake. The first mention of the people of this village is that by Gibbs,Schoolcraft, III, 110. who calls them "Cho-tan-o-man-as," and states that they lived near the outlet of Clear lake. PowersTribes of Cal., p. 214. classes them as a people entirely distinct from the Pomo, and related to the Wintun. He gives their name as "Makh'-el-chel," and under that heading says: "This is the name by which they are known among the surrounding Indians and the Americans, but whether it originated with themselves I can not state. Their principal, and formerly only, abode was an island on the east side of Clear lake, a few miles above Lower lake. In their language hösch'-la signifies "island," which has been corrupted and applied both to the island and the tribe; and our undiscriminating countrymen pronounced it with great impartiality Hessler, Kessler, Hesley, Kelsey, and several other ways." The same name is given them by Powell,Op. cit., p. 70. who probably takes Powers as authority, and Slocum, Bowen and Company"The Shoat-ow-no-ma-nook tribe had their homes on an island near the lower end of the lake. They numbered one hundred and twenty, but only thirty are left. Their chief was called Sam Patch."—Op. cit., Lake County, p. 35. mention them under the name "Shoat-ow-no-ma-nook."

xûbē', on the eastern shore of Lower lake at a point about half a mile north of what is known as Floyd's Landing and about a mile and a half northwest of the outlet of the lake.


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kūū'lbidai, on the eastern shore of Lower lake in what is known as Burns' valley and at a point about two miles north-northwest of the outlet of the lake. The residence of Mr. T. G. Turner now stands on this site.

kûla'i, on the eastern shore of Lower lake in what is known as Burns' valley and at a point about two and a half miles north-northwest of the outlet of the lake. This site is separated from kūū'lbidai by a small creek.

k!a'ūcel, on the eastern shore of Lower lake at a point about due west of Big Borax lake.

kīye'ūtsīt, on the southern shore of East lake at a point about two and a half miles west of Sulphur Bank.

xûna'dai, from xûna, tule boat or balsa, and dai, landing, on the eastern shore of East lake at a point about half a mile north of Sulphur Bank and directly opposite the old village of e'lem on Rattlesnake or Sulphur Bank island. As the name of this village indicates it was a place used as a boat landing. Although it was inhabited permanently it appears that there was never a very large population here at any one time, the chief village being at e'lem on the island opposite. The present Sulphur Bank rancheria occupies this old site.

e'lem, on the southern slope of Rattlesnake or Sulphur Bank island at the eastern end of East lake. This is a low island, covering about thirty-five acres, with its northern slope well wooded and its southern entirely open. This village was formerly the largest in the Southeastern dialectic area and was only abandoned about thirty-five or forty years ago, when its inhabitants removed to the adjacent mainland, where they now live. The Southerly Wintun called the neighborhood of Sulphur Bank mō'Labe. The people of the village of e'lem were called ka'-mīna by the Northern Pomo and xa'-wīna by the Eastern Pomo, both of which names signify water on top of or near to. Another name given to these people by the Eastern Pomo was ka'ūgūma,Slocum, Bowen and Company, op. cit., Lake County, p. 36, say: "The Cow-goo-mah tribe had their rancheria at the Sulphur Bank. They numbered one hundred and thirty, but are now reduced to forty. No-tow was their chief," and continuing, "The Le-mah-mah lived on an island just west of the Sulphur Bank. There were at one time one hundred and forty of them, but only about twenty remain. Beu-beu was their chief."


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which was also applied to the people of ka'mdōt on Buckingham's island.

ktsū'kawai, or patōlkaleyō (Eastern Pomo dialect name), from patō'l, oak ball, kale', tree, and yō, under, on the northern shore of East lake and at a point about a mile northeast of the southern extremity of the point which forms the northern shore of the strait connecting the main body of Clear lake with East and Lower lakes. This site is on the ranch belonging to Mr. I. Alter.

Old Camp Sites.

k!ōlōlaxa, from k!ōlō, mortar stone, la, ?, and xa, water, on the southern shore of the strait connecting the main body of Clear lake with East and Lower lakes at a point a very short distance west of the northeastern projection of the peninsula which separates the main body of Clear lake from East and Lower lakes. This site was used as a fish camp.

kaa'lkfai, from kaa'l, tule, and fai or kfai, a flat open place, on the western shore of Lower lake at a point probably about three miles southeast of Little Borax lake. This village derives its name from the fact that there grew in this vicinity large quantities of the particular species of tule used in making tule boats or balsas and it was customary for boat makers to come here and camp during the seasons of the year when the tule was in proper condition for boat making.

ts!a'bal, on the southern shore of Lower lake at a point probably about two and a half miles west-northwest of the old village of kō'ī on Lower Lake island. This camp was used as an acorn and food gathering camp.

, at the southeastern extremity of Lower lake and on a narrow neck of land running into the lake from a point just west of its outlet.

mū'cōkol, on a very small peninsula which is almost entirely cut off from the mainland on the northern shore of East lake and about due north of Rattlesnake or Sulphur Bank island.


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Southern Dialect.

Boundaries.

Beginning at the junction of the north fork with the main stream of Gualala river the northern boundary of the Southern Pomo dialectic area runs in a general easterly direction up the ridge separating the drainage of the north fork of Gualala river from that of Rock Pile creek, past the headwaters of the latter and onto the divide between the headwaters of Navarro river and of Dry creek. At a point a short distance south of McDonald it takes a general southeasterly course, following the ridge to the west of Russian river, and finally turns in an easterly direction and crosses the river at a point about two and a half miles north of the town of Cloverdale and half a mile south of the line between Mendocino and Sonoma counties.See note 160. Continuing in this same direction it passes through the foot-hills to the summit of the range separating the drainage of Russian river from that of Clear lake; thence, turning in a general southeasterly direction, it follows this range to Cobb mountain.It has been impossible to determine definitely a portion of the boundary in the vicinity of Cobb mountain, but that here given is probably correct. The portion of the boundary from Gualala river to the divide between the drainage of Russian river and that of Clear lake separates the Southern from the Central Pomo dialectic area, and the portion running along this range to Cobb mountain separates it from the Eastern Pomo area. From Cobb mountain the boundary takes a south-westerly course and, recrossing Russian river, runs to the divide separating the Russian river and Dry creek drainages, which it meets at a point about three miles northwest of the town of Geyserville. Here it turns in a general southeasterly direction and runs along this divide to a point just west of Lyttons, where it takes a more easterly course along the continuation of this divide, which runs nearly due east for a short distance. Then the boundary runs southeast again to the southern part of the great bend


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in Russian river about due east of Healdsburg.This portion of the western Pomo-Wappo interstock boundary as here given is as it was at the time of the arrival of the first settlers in this section. Formerly, however, the Southern Pomo owned that portion of the Russian river valley known as Alexander valley and extending from the confluence of Elk creek northward about to the small stream called by the Wappo pō'pōetc, which flows into Russian river just north of the old village of kolo'kō, as also the territory extending some distance into the mountains east of this valley. They had several villages in this area, the chief of which seem to have been kō'tīcōmōta and cī'mēla. For details concerning the war between the Pomo and Wappo, which resulted in the Wappo taking possession of this portion of this territory, see footnote relating to the boundaries of the main Wappo area. It here crosses the river and, keeping its southeasterly course, runs to a point between the headwaters of Sonoma and Santa Rosa creeks. From Cobb mountain to this point the boundary separates the Southern Pomo and the Yukian Wappo areas. It here turns in a general westerly direction and passes along the water-shed separating the Russian river and San Pablo bay drainagesSee note 107. to the headwaters of Salmon creek, down which it runs for a short distance. This portion of the boundary of this dialectic area is also the interstock boundary between the Pomo and the Moquelumnan territories. From this indefinitely located point on Salmon creek the boundary runs northward through the redwood belt and crosses Russian river, presumably, at a point a short distance east of the confluence of Austin creek with it. It runs, presumably, to the eastern head of Austin creek.Along almost the entire length of the coast between the mouths of Gualala river and Salmon creek, near Bodega bay, the redwood forest begins almost at the shore-line—nowhere does the open land extend for more than a mile back from the cliffs—and continues as a solid belt of timber with but few open areas for many miles inland. This belt of timber was not inhabited, except in these small open areas, by the people of either the Southwestern or the Southern dialect, and portions of it seem to have been virtually unclaimed by either people. This is particularly the case in the southern part of the area and in part, at least, accounts for the fact that it was impossible to determine the exact boundary from Salmon creek to the head of Austin creek. As an evidence that a great part of this forested area was but little known to the Indians it may be noted that some of the Indians of the Southwestern dialectic area claim that the site of the present town of Guerneville was unknown to them until after the coming of the lumber mills to the region. It was then named mōko'cpēūlū, from mōko'c, stump, and pē'ūlū, a corruption of the Spanish pueblo, on account of the many huge redwood stumps left after the felling of the trees for milling purposes. The people of the Southern dialectic area seem to have known the site, at least using it as a camp if not a village. Their name for this site, cīyō'le, signifying shady place, seems to have been derived from the denseness of the forest. From this point it takes a westerly course, passing just north of the western head of Austin
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creek, crossing Hopper creek, and running to a point just west of the old village of matī'wī, where it turns in a northwesterly direction, crosses the middle fork of Gualala river, and passes to the head of Fuller creek. Here it turns in a southwesterly direction, recrosses the middle fork of Gualala river, passes across the divide between the middle fork and the main branch of this river, and comes to the latter at a point about a mile up stream from the confluence of the two. It then passes down Gualala river to the confluence of the north fork with it. The Southwestern dialectic area lies west of this entire western boundary from Salmon creek to the north fork of Gualala river.

This very irregularly shaped area of the Southern dialectic group is adjoined on the north by the territory of the Central Pomo; on the east by those of the Eastern Pomo, and the Yukian Wappo; on the south by those of the Southern and Western Moquelumnan dialectic groups; and on the west by that of the Southwestern Pomo.

General Description.

The Southern dialectic area is divided by the redwood belt into two parts, one in Russian river valley, the other on Gualala river. The former embraces the greater part of the valley of Russian river from a point about two and a half miles north of the town of CloverdaleSee note 160. down to a rather indefinitely located point within the redwood belt several miles from the mouth of the river.See note 244. From the northern boundary down to about three miles north of the town of Geyserville the valley is from a quarter of a mile to a mile in width, and was owned by the Southern Pomo, but from about three miles north of Geyserville down to the great bend of the river east of Healdsburg it was occupied by people speaking the Yukian Wappo dialect. From Healdsburg down to the southern line of the Southern dialectic area, thus including the drainages of Markwest and Santa Rosa creeks, there extends a broad fertile valley known as Santa Rosa valley. There is also a narrow but very fertile valley extending the greater length of Dry creek. The part of this area on Gualala river was


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confined to the eastern bank of the main branch of the river along its lower course and to the headwaters of the middle fork. In the former area there is little real valley, the river itself and affluent streams flowing almost entirely in deep canyons and the adjacent mountains being heavily forested. In the portion of this division of the area which lies on the headwaters of the middle fork there is even less true valley land, but there is much more open country in the mountains.

This dialectic group, inhabiting areas almost entirely within the valley region, had the characteristic valley foods: acorns, grass and other seeds, and bulbs and tubers; but game and fish were also plentiful.

Russian River Division.Early writers recognized the linguistic affinities of the inhabitants of the lower Russian river valley, and classed them all under the general name "Kainomero," which is at present recognized by the few Indians who survive in that region, although its origin seems somewhat uncertain. The name itself has been variously spelled and the limits of the territory of the people to which it is applied variously defined. Gibbs (Schoolcraft, III, 102), in speaking of the Indians seen near Healdsburg, says, "The tribe to which they belong, and which has its headquarters at Fitch's ranch, is called `Kai-na-meah,' or, as the Spaniards pronounce it, `Kai-na-me-ro' . . . . I was informed that this dialect extends as far back as Santa Rosa, down Russian river about three leagues to Cooper's ranch, and thence across to the coast at Fort Ross, and for twenty-five miles above." Powers (Tribes of Cal., p. 174) gives the limits of their territory much more correctly: "In Russian River Valley, from Cloverdale down to the redwood belt and south to Santa Rosa Creek, and also in Dry Creek Valley, live the remnants of a tribe whom the Spaniards called the Gal-li-no-me'-ro nation. The Gallinome'ro proper occupy Dry Creek and Russian River, below Healdsburg, within the limits above named; while above Healdsburg, principally between Geyserville and Cloverdale, are the Mi-sal'-la Ma-gūn', or Mu-sal-la-kūn', and the Kai-me'." Substantially the same information was obtained from Indians now living about Healdsburg and Cloverdale. They say that the name kainōmē'rō was given by the Spaniards of San Rafael mission to the Indians of Healdsburg and Santa Rosa upon the occasion of their being brought into the mission in the early part of the last century. They have no knowledge of the significance of the name, and can not give any name used by themselves prior to their taking this one. Applied first to the Indians from the immediate vicinity of Healdsburg and Santa Rosa, this name has now a broader use, being made to include the remainder of the people speaking this dialect, and formerly living about Cloverdale and on the upper course of Dry creek. Concerning the origin of the name Gallinomero Powers says that he was unable to ascertain the original name of the people for themselves, and concludes that the one in question came from Gallina, the name given by the early Spaniards to one of their "great chiefs." Concerning Mi-sal'-la Ma-gūn', he says (p. 183), "A Gallinomero told me the name was a corruption of mi-sal'-la-a'-ko which denotes `long snake.' " (The Northern Pomo name of the striped water-snake is mīsa'kale, or mīsa'kalak, while msa'kale is the form found in the Central dialect.) "Another form of the name is Mu-sal-la-kūn'. . . . . They and the Kai-me' occupy both banks of Russian river from Cloverdale down to the territory of the Rincons (Wappos) about Geyserville." The name is perpetuated in "Rancho de Musalacon," an old Mexican land grant extending, according to Bowers' Map of Sonoma County (1882), along Russian river from about a mile north of Cloverdale to about six miles south of that place. This name, rendered "Masalla Magoons," is given by Bancroft (Native Races, I, 449), and Powell (op. cit., p. 88) gives both "Misa'lamagūn" and "Musakakūn." Kainomero is also differently spelled by other writers: Taylor (Cal. Farmer, March 2, 1860) uses Canimares, Thompson (Central Sonoma, p. 5, San Francisco, 1884, and History of Sonoma County, p. 70) calls them "Cainemeros," and Captain H. L. Ford in the Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs for 1856 (p. 257) speaks of them as the "Kyanamara," and again in the Report on the Mendocino War (op. cit., p. 15) as "Calle-Namares." The "Gallinomero" of Powers seems to have been quite commonly used by later writers, as Powell (op. cit., p. 88) and Mason (op. cit., p. 368). In "Pomo Indian Baskets and Their Makers" (Land of Sunshine, XV, 442) "Gallynomeros" is used, but Mr. Purdy in his reprinted edition of 1902 corrects the spelling to "Gallinomeros." Bancroft (Native Races, I, 362, 363, 449) uses "Gallinomeros, Kanimares, and Kainamares."

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

bati'klētcawī or batiñklētca'wī, from batī', alder, Alnus rhombifolia, kale', tree, and tca'wī, house, or tōtōlagotca (Western Moquelumnan dialect name), from to'tōla, elderberry, and go'tca,


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house, in the southern part of the town of Sebastopol. There is at present but a single house with about seven inhabitants here, but this was once a populous village. This house is located on the site of the old village which also bore the name bati'klētcawī. At a point about a mile east of the town of Sebastopol there is another family of about ten individuals, and there are several other places within the limits of this dialectic area where Indians may be found at times, as on the ranches near the towns of Windsor, Healdsburg and Cloverdale; but the sites at Sebastopol were the only ones found which are inhabited regularly and permanently. The total number of Indians, excluding those at the town of Sebastopol, regularly residing within this dialectic area, is not greater than twenty-five.

Old Village Sites.

cīyō'le, from cīyō', shadow or shade, and le or lī, place, at the town of Guerneville. The informant who mentioned this site gave it as that of a village, but from the nature of the country and the denseness of the redwood forests which extended for some distance on all sides it seems doubtful whether it was actually


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inhabited as a village, though it is quite probable that it was used as a camping place. Informants of the Southwestern dialect said that the vicinity of Guerneville was entirely uninhabited in aboriginal times, and they knew as its Indian name only mōko'cpēūlū, from mōko'c, stump, and pē'ūlū, a corruption of the Spanish pueblo. This name was given to that vicinity on account of the many large stumps left after logging for the lumber mills, which were established there at a comparatively early date after the American occupation.

bū'dūtcīlan, on the north bank of Russian river at a point probably about five and a half miles up stream from Guerneville. This village was located on the ranch owned by Mr. Thomas Hill and was but a short distance down stream from the confluence of Markwest creek with Russian river.

dē'lema, on what is known as the Porter ranch, at a point about three-quarters of a mile west of the west bank of Russian river and at a point about two miles north of the confluence of Markwest creek with it.

cīōhūtmō'kōnī. This site was rather indefinitely located by the informant but was probably on the ranch owned by Messrs. White and Wilson at a point about a mile and a half east of Russian river and about a mile and a quarter north of Markwest creek.

ūpawa'ni, on what is known as the Miller ranch at a point about a mile east of Russian river and two and three-quarters miles southwest of the town of Windsor.

hatcilan, on the ranch formerly known as the Lewis ranch and lying just east of Russian river at a point about two and half miles west-southwest of the town of Windsor.

kala'tken, on the ranch formerly owned by Mr. J. G. Dow, on the west bank of Russian river at a point about four and a quarter miles south of Healdsburg.

behekaūna, on the west bank of Russian river at a point about four miles down stream from the town of Healdsburg.

tsī'wīda, near the east bank of Russian river at a point about two and a half miles a little south of west of the town of Windsor.

bacaklenō'nan, from ba'ca or bē'ce, buckeye, kale', tree, and nōnan, ?, on the ranch of Mr. J. W. Calhoun near the east bank


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of Russian river at a point about two and a half miles a little north of west of the town of Windsor.

cat·īnen, near the west bank of Russian river at a point about three and a quarter miles south of the town of Healdsburg.

hee'man, near the west bank of Russian river at a point about two and three-quarters miles south of the town of Healdsburg.

ka'wīkawī, near the east bank of Russian river at a point about two and three-quarters miles a little east of south of the town of Healdsburg.

bīdūtsa'kalēyō, on the west bank of Russian river at a point about a quarter of a mile down stream from the confluence of Dry creek with it.

djō'pten, on what is known as the Brumfield ranch at a point on the east bank of Russian river almost opposite the confluence of Dry creek. This may be the same village referred to by another informant as būcka'wī.

maka'smō, near the residence of Mr. J. D. Grant at a point on the east bank of Russian river about a mile and a half south of Healdsburg.

amatī'ō, from a'ma, ground, ha'ta, red, and iyō', below, near the north bank of a small stream called Mill creek which flows into Dry creek nearly at its confluence with Russian river. This site was located about half a mile from the west bank of Dry creek. ka'kīya is the name of another site in this immediate vicinity, probably a very short distance up Mill creek, which was so indefinitely located by informants that it is impossible to give it a place on the map.

ū'pawanī, on what is known as the Thompson ranch about a quarter of a mile west of Dry creek and about the same distance north of Mill creek above mentioned.

ka'bekadōganī, on what is known as the Hopper ranch just west of the bridge across Dry creek on the road leading from Healdsburg down the west bank of Russian river. This may be the same village referred to by another informant as dīnasīūnan.

amalpūwa'lī, on the west bank of Russian river at a point about a mile and a quarter down stream from Healdsburg. This site is located about a mile down stream from the Dry creek bridge and on the east bank of the creek.


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helwamē'can, on the west bank of Russian river at a point about three-quarters of a mile down stream from Healdsburg.

ka'tōwī, from ka'tōn, lake or pond, and wī, place, near the north shore of a lake covering several acres which is situated about a mile and a half southeast of Healdsburg. This lake is on the low land of the river bottom proper and just at the joining of the river bottom with the slightly more elevated table land of the valley. In aboriginal times the lake itself was surrounded by a dense growth of shrubs and briars and was a place viewed with some awe by the Indians. There is a story told of a super-natural log which formerly floated about in this lake. In appearance it was like an ordinary log five or six feet in length and eight or ten inches, possibly a foot, in diameter. It floated about the lake as an ordinary log might, but when people, particularly children, approached the lake the log would be seen to float toward them and come to the shore, where it would remain until they either stepped upon it or moved away. If they did the former the log moved rapidly out to the middle of the lake and there floated about for a long time. So far as informants could remember the log did not roll or in any way seem to try to throw off its cargo and no one was ever known to have been killed or even injured by such a ride. Nevertheless no one except the most daring ever ventured to step upon the log and it seems to have been particularly forbidden to children by their parents to undertake such a risk. Another strange thing in connection with this lake is the fact, which is attested by some of the oldest settlers of the region, that every evening there was to be heard coming from the lake a deep and very loud sound resembling somewhat that of a locomotive engine blowing off steam or the loud bellowing of a bull. This was said to be the sound made by the old frog-woman who lived in and controlled this lake and all things surrounding it. She is not represented as at all inclined to viciousness or as having injured Indians, nor was there formerly thought to be any direct connection between her and the miraculously moving log above mentioned. However, not many years after the settlement of this section by the Mexican rancheros there came a very wet season which raised the river so high that it flowed a stream into and out of this lake, taking with it the miraculous


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log; and never since has the sound of the old frog-woman been heard in the evening. It is now believed by the Indians therefore that there was some connection between the two, of which they were formerly unaware. At the present time this lake is nothing but a mere pond, particularly in the dry season, as Mr. William Fitch, the original grantee of the rancho upon which it is situated, drained it and the adjacent land a short time after the freshet above mentioned.

kolo'ko, at a point about two miles east-southeast of Healdsburg.

kawa'mīō, from kawa'n, pine, ama, ground, and yō, under, at a point about a mile and a quarter east-southeast of Healdsburg.

yōci'kletōwanī, from yōci', white oak, kale', tree, and tōwa'nī, stand up, at the south end of the wagon bridge across Russian river at Healdsburg. Another informant located this site on the west bank of the river at a point almost opposite the location here given.

ba'ka'tsīō, just south of the railroad depot at Healdsburg.

ka'le, from aka, water, and le or lī, place. The plaza in Healdsburg now occupies the site of this old village. Immediately south of this site there was formerly a small lake which gave the village its name.

cū'takōwī, on the north bank of Russian river in the southeastern part of the town of Healdsburg.

watakka'wi, from wa'tak, frog, a'ka, water or pond, and wī, place, at a point about three-quarters of a mile east of the town of Healdsburg. This site is at the foot of Fitch mountainThe Southern Pomo name of Fitch mountain was given by one informant as ts!ū'nno. and is now covered by the Healdsburg cemetery.

wotokka'tōn, from wo'to, dirty or ashes, ka'tōn, lake, at a point about a mile northeast of the last named site, and on the opposite side of Russian river. This village was located on what is known as the Luce ranch and the captain or leader of the people at this village was known by the Spanish name of Santiago. He was also known by the name of mantē'ka or sō'tō, and it is from this latter name that Sotoyome is derived, the latter part of the name signifying "the home of." This name, Sotoyome,


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has come quite commonly into use in this vicinity from the fact that the old Mexican land grant of Mr. William Fitch was called the Sotoyome rancho.According to Bowers' "Map of Sonoma County," 1882, the Sotoyome Rancho comprised forty-eight thousand, eight hundred and thirty-six acres of land, including Fitch mountain and the present site of Healdsburg, as well as Alexander valley to the east. In connection with the Indians this name was used by Engelhardt,Op. cit., p. 451. who gives "Sotoyomi" in his list of the names of the various peoples who were among the converts at Sonoma mission, and ThompsonSonoma County, p. 88. says that Fitch mountain was called by the Indians "Sotoyome," by which name it is known to a limited extent among the whites at present.

mūkakōtca'Lī, from mūka't, ant, and tca'Lī, village, at the northeastern foot of Fitch mountain and at a point about a mile and a quarter northeast of Healdsburg. This village seems to have been one of the places at which at least some of the fighting between the Wappo and the Southern Pomo in the war which finally gave the Wappo possession of Alexander valley took place. The chief fighting, however, was in Alexander valley proper in and about the village of cī"mēla.

baca'klekaū, from baca', buckeye, kale', tree, and īkaū, bursted or broken, at the point about a mile north of Healdsburg where the roads leading to Lyttons and to Dry creek diverge.

lū'lī, on what is known as the Miller ranch in Dry creek valley at a point about a mile and a half northwest of Healdsburg. This site is located on the east bank of the creek.

watakkō'wī, back near the foot-hills at the edge of Dry creek valley and at a point about a mile and three-quarters north-northeast of Healdsburg. There seems to be some doubt as to whether this place was ever actually inhabited. One or two informants know the name as that of a locality but not as that of a village site, but others speak of it as a village.

amaskatcī'lan, near the foot-hills at the eastern edge of Dry creek valley and at a point about two miles north-northeast of Healdsburg.

kabē'tōn, from kabē', rock, and tōn, under (?), near the east bank of Dry creek at a point about two and a half miles north-northeast of Healdsburg.


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catca'lī, near the east bank of Dry creek at a point about three and a quarter miles up stream from the town of Healdsburg. The above location is probably the correct one, although one informant placed this site at a point about half a mile south of the old village of watakkō'wī.

takō'kalewī. This site was indefinitely located by one informant as at or near Lyttons Springs in the low hills of the divide between Russian river and Dry creek at a point about a mile west of Lyttons.

cawa'kō, or walnū'tse (Yukian Wappo name), from wal, warriors, and nū'tse, small, near the west bank of Dry creek at the confluence of Piña creek with it. The name given to this village by the Wappo is said to arise from the contempt in which they held the Pomo, they themselves being conceded to be more war-like than the Pomo.

kawiñkwitī'man, near the east bank of Dry creek at a point about a quarter of a mile up stream from the confluence of Piña creek with it.

takō'tōn, on the east bank of Dry creek just up stream from the confluence of Warm Springs creek with it.

kahō'wanī, from ka or aka, water, hō, hot or fire, and wa'nī, ?, at Skaggs Springs, on the east bank of Hot Springs creek, an affluent of Warm Springs creek. Mr. Mulgrew, the proprietor of Skaggs Springs, has found on this site a number of mortars, pestles, and other large stone implements as well as many arrow-heads and smaller implements.

kabē'ptewī, from kabē', rock, pte or bate', big, and wī, place, near the southwest bank of Rancheria creek, one of the extreme headwaters of Warm Springs creek, and at a point probably about a mile from the confluence of Rancheria creek with Warm Springs creek proper. This site was very indefinitely located by the informant.

katsa'nōsma, from katsa', grass, nō, ashes or dust, and sma, sleep, on the ridge separating the headwaters of Warm Springs creek from those of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point about two miles north-northwest of Leppo's dairy, which is at the summit of this ridge and on the road leading from the Russian river valley to Stewart's point on the coast.


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dō'wīkatōn, from dō'wī, coyote, ka, spring or water, and tōn, under (?), on the ridge separating the headwaters of Warm Springs creek from those of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point about a mile and a quarter northwest of Leppo's dairy above mentioned.

kūla'tīō, from kūla', probably a kind of plant, tī, ?, and yō, under, on the summit of the ridge separating the headwaters of Warm Springs creek from those of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point about three-quarters of a mile northwest of Leppo's dairy above mentioned.

ama'kō, on the east bank of Russian river east of the winery of the Italian-Swiss colony at Asti. This site is on what is known as the Black ranch or the old Landsbury ranch.

mō'tītca'tōn, a short distance west of Russian river and at a point about a mile and three-quarters south-southeast of Cloverdale. According to one informant this village was a very small one.

kala'ñkō, on the west bank of Russian river at a point about a mile southeast of the town of Cloverdale. This site lies between the track of the California Northwestern railway and the river bank on the Caldwell ranch.

a'ka'mōtcōlōwanī, near the west bank of Russian river at a point about half a mile southeast of the town of Cloverdale.

maka'hmō, at the mouth of Sulphur creek just northeast of Cloverdale. It appears that this village occupied both banks of the stream and the name maka'hmō was universally applied to it not only by the people of the immediate vicinity but also by the people of the neighboring dialectic areas. They recognized this as the chief village in the northern part of the Southern dialectic area, and applied the name maka'hmō not only to the village itself but more broadly to all of the immediate vicinity. According to one informant, a former resident of this village, the portion of the village lying south of Sulphur creek had a separate name, ga'catīhmō, while the portion lying north of the creek was called gī'cīpte'tōn.

gatcītī'yō, near the west bank of Russian river at a point about half a mile south of Preston.

The following village sites are located in the broad valley,


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known as Santa Rosa valley, lying south of Russian river and along Markwest and Santa Rosa creeks and about the Laguna de Santa Rosa.

tcē'tcēwani, at the northern extremity of the Laguna de Santa Rosa and just west of the point where its waters flow into Markwest creek.

tsōlīka'wī, at "old Windsor," about half a mile east of the present railroad town of Windsor.

tō'hmakaū, on the north bank of the main stream of Markwest creek at the point where the wagon bridge on the road from Fulton to Windsor crosses it.

būtswa'lī, on the west bank of the Laguna de Santa Rosa at a point about a mile from its northern extremity.

ta'wanī, at a point about two miles northwest of Santa Rosa.

hūkabet·a'wī, on the south bank of the Santa Rosa creekAccording to Thompson (Sonoma County, p. 70) the Indian name of Santa Rosa creek was Chocoalomi. at a point a short distance from the depot of the California Northwestern railway in Santa Rosa.In speaking of the Indians in Santa Rosa valley at the time of its occupation by the first permanent white settler, Siñora Carillo, who arrived there in 1838, R. A. Thompson (Central Sonoma, pp. 4-5) says: "The principal rancheria was on the Smith farm, just below the bridge, at the crossing of Santa Rosa creek, on the road leading to Sebastopol. Upon this site a Mission was commenced, probably by Father Amoroso. The Indians rose up and destroyed the incipient Mission buildings about the same time that the Mission of Sonoma was devastated." Theodore H. Hittell (History of California, I, 499) upon the authority of Duflot de Mofras (II, 6) says concerning this mission: "With San Francisco Solano or Sonoma in 1828 ended the foundation of the twenty-one missions in Alta California. There appears to have been a twenty-second talked of, and an attempt was made to found one at Santa Rosa in 1827, but the project was abortive."

kabetcī'ūwa, in the eastern edge of the town of Santa Rosa and at a point about a mile from the old village of hūkabet·a'wī.

wī'lōk, at a point about three miles northeast of Santa Rosa. The "Huiluc" mentioned by EngelhardtOp. cit., p. 451. as among the Indians at Sonoma mission may have been either from this village or from wi'līkōs on Sonoma creek a few miles to the southeast.

ka'pten, on the western shore of the Laguna de Santa Rosa at a point about two miles from its northern extremity.

caka'kmō, on the western shore of the Laguna de Santa Rosa at a point about three miles from its northern extremity.


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tcīLē'tōn, on the western shore of the Laguna de Santa Rosa at a point about three and a half miles from its northern extremity.

kacī'ntūī, on the western shore of the Laguna de Santa Rosa at a point about two and a half miles northwest of the town of Sebastopol. This site is located at what is known as Allen's hop yard.

masīkawa'nī, near the western shore of the Laguna de Santa Rosa at a point about a mile and a half west-northwest of the town of Sebastopol. This site is located on the Sebring ranch.

bati'klētcawī, or batiñklētcawī, from bati, alder, Alnus rhombifolia, kale, tree, and tca'wi, house, or to tōlagotca (Western Moquelumnan dialect name), from to'tōla, elderberry, and go'tca, house, just southwest of the railroad depot in Sebastopol. The site now occupied by the few Indians who live permanently in this immediate vicinity is also called by this same name and is the only site regularly and permanently inhabited by the Indians in the southern part of this dialectic area.

akapō'lōpōlōwani, at a point about a mile and a half southeast of the town of Sebastopol and on the road leading from Sebastopol to Petaluma.

bū'takatcatōkani, at a point on the road leading from Sebastopol to Petaluma about two and a half miles southeast of Sebastopol.

bō'hōsōle, at a point on the road leading from Sebastopol to Petaluma probably about three miles southeast of Sebastopol.

In addition to these old village sites, all of which are situated within the limits of the territory which was in possession of the people speaking the Southern dialect at the time of the arrival of the first settlers in this region, there are several others which now lie within that portion of the territory of the Yukian Wappo which embraces Alexander valley to the northeast of Healdsburg. These sites are, kō'tīcōmōta or tcelhe'lle, cī"mēla or ōssōkō'wi, pīpōhō'lma or djelheldjīseka'nī, malalatca'Lī, aca'ben, gaiye'tcin, and kolo'kō, the information concerning which is given in connection with that regarding the old village sites in the Main Wappo area.


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Old Camp Sites.

Owing to the early settlement of the region under consideration and particularly that part of it lying along the lower course of Russian river from Healdsburg southward, and to the fact that the Indians who formerly inhabited it were at an early date removed to the missions about San Francisco bay, little information can now be obtained concerning village sites other than those which were the most important, and practically no information can be had concerning camp sites which were, of course, always of minor importance. It is quite possible that some of the sites lying in and about Healdsburg and immediately southward on both banks of Russian river which are here given as village sites are in reality camp sites, the confusion having arisen from the length of time since the country was actually inhabited in anything like its aboriginal state and the small number of informants now to be found. The following are the only camp sites mentioned by the Indians.

ītcatca'iLi, immediately south of the railway station at Asti.

kawatca'nnō, at Leppo's dairy on the summit of the ridge separating the headwaters of Warm Springs creek, an affluent of Dry creek, from those of the middle fork of Gualala river. This site is located at the point on the summit of this ridge where the road from the Russian river valley to Stewart's point on the coast passes over it.

Gualala River Division.Powers (Tribes of Cal., p. 186) uses "Gualala" as the name of the people living "on the creek called by their name, which empties into the Pacific at the northwest corner of Sonoma County," and it has been used by Powell (op. cit., p. 88), Bancroft (Native Races, I, 362, 449), and Mason (op. cit., p. 368) with the same signification. At present a town as well as the river bears the name which is usually spelled as above given. Other orthographies are, however, used, as "Wallhalla" given on Bowers' "Map of Sonoma County" as the name of the river (residents of the region frequently pronounce the name walhala or walhaler), and "Valhalla" which is used by Thompson (Sonoma County, p. 7) upon the assumption that it came originally from the old Norse Valhalla. There is, however, nothing which directly shows this and it seems much more probable that it came from the Pomo wala'lī, or wa'lalī, which in the Southern and Southwestern dialects is the name given to certain parts of Russian river, and is a generic term signifying the meeting place of the waters of any in-flowing stream with those of the stream into which it flows or with the ocean. The present spelling, Gualala, is probably influenced by the Spanish.

Old Village Sites.

kūbahmō'ī, near the south bank of Rock Pile creek at its confluence with Gualala river.


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kabētē'yō, near the east bank of Gualala river at a point about a mile and a quarter up stream from the confluence of Rock Pile creek with it.

kawantē' līmanī, from kawa'n, a species of pine, tē'lī, flat head (?), and ma'nī, ?, indefinitely located near the head of Buckeye creek, an affluent of Gualala river.

kōba'te, from kō, ball, and ba'te, big or many (?), on what is known as Biddle ridge north of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point probably about two miles northeast of the confluence of that stream with the main branch of Gualala river.

ca'mlī, in the mountains immediately north of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point probably about three miles a little north of east of the confluence of that stream with the main branch of Gualala river.

ma'kawica, from ma'ka, salmon, and wīca', ridge, in the mountains immediately north of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point probably about a mile and a half a little north of east of the old village of kōba'te. This site is about midway between Buckeye creek and the middle fork of Gualala river.

ma'hmō, on what is known as the "old" John Fiśk place at a point about half a mile north of the middle fork of Gualala river and due north of the present village of pō'tōl.

matī'wī, on the summit of the ridge separating the middle fork of Gualala river from the small stream known as Haupt creek (unnamed on the accompanying map) to the south. This site is almost due north of the present village of pō'tōl and is very near the boundary between the Southern and the Southwestern dialectic area.

kawamtca'elī, from kawa'm, a species of pine, tca, house, and e'lī or lī, place, immediately west of the stopping-place known as Noble's which is on the south bank of the middle fork of Gualala river and just down stream from the point at which Hopper creek, Wolf creek, and the north fork of the middle fork come together to form the middle fork of Gualala river. This site is in the grain field on the flat immediately west of Noble's barn.

bī'mūkatōn, from bī'mū, a species of shrub, ka, water or spring, and tōn, under, in the mountains immediately north of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point about half a mile north of Noble's.


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hī'walhmū, from hī'wal, related to wala'lī, the point at which two streams flow together, and hmū, ?, at the point where Hopper creek, Wolf creek, and the north fork of the middle fork of Gualala river flow together to form the middle fork. The exact location of this site was not given by informants but it is probable that it was between Hopper and Wolf creeks.

dūwīdī'tem, from dū'wī, coyote, and dī'tem, said to signify to go on top of, near the south bank of Wolf creek at a point about a mile and a quarter up stream from its confluence with the middle fork of Gualala river.

bū'lakōwī, from bū, Indian potatoes, la, ?, kō, long, and wī, place, in the mountains between Wolf creek and the north fork of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point probably about two miles northeast of the confluence of the two.

Old Camp Sites.

tca'yahakatōn, near the east bank of Gualala river at a point probably about a mile and a half up stream from the confluence of Buckeye creek with it. A railroad built for logging purposes in connection with the Gualala lumber mills now runs through this site.

dū'tsakol, in the mountains east of Gualala river and at a point about a mile north of the confluence of the middle fork with the main stream. This site is near the end of a prominent ridge in this vicinity known as Biddle ridge.

ka'tmatcī, near the summit of the ridge separating the middle fork of Gualala river from the main stream and at a point about three-quarters of a mile southeast of the confluence of the two.

kaba'tūī, from kaba', madroña, and tū'ī, forks (?), in the mountains north of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point about a mile and a half northwest of the old village of hībū'wī. This site is very near the boundary between the Southern and the Southwestern dialectic areas and is about a mile from the river.

tsū'nnō, in the mountains north of the middle fork of Gualala river and at a point probably a mile and a half northwest of Noble's.


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ka'sīle, from kasi'l, redwood, and le or lī, place, at the head of Wolf creek, probably near its northern branch.

kale'wīca, from kale', tree, and wīca', ridge, on the ridge separating the headwaters of the north fork of the middle fork of Gualala river from those of Ranchero creek.

Southwestern Dialect.

Boundaries.

Beginning at the mouth of Gualala river the boundary of the Southwestern Pomo dialectic area follows the course of the main stream of the river,See note 161. first in a northeasterly and then in a southeasterly direction to a point about a mile up stream from the confluence of the middle fork with it. Here it turns in a general easterly direction and crosses the middle fork of Gualala river, where it again turns in a northeasterly direction and runs into the mountains, passing to the head of Fuller creek. Here it turns in a southeasterly direction, recrosses the middle fork of Gualala river, and runs to a point just south of the old village of matī'wī. From this point it runs in an easterly direction across Hopper creek and just north of the headwaters of Austin creek, at the most easterly of which it turns southward and runs to Russian river presumably at a point a little up from the confluence of Austin creek with it.See note 244. From this point it runs in the same general direction to Salmon creek, which is here the interstock boundary between the Pomo and the Moquelumnan territories, at a point a short distance west of the town of Freestone. It then follows Salmon creek westward to the ocean. The western boundary of this dialectic area is the shore-line.

This rather long and narrow irregularly shaped area is bounded on the north, east, and south respectively by the Central Pomo, Southern Pomo and Western Moquelumnan dialectic areas, and on the west by the ocean.

General Description.

It will be convenient to divide this dialectic area into two parts: the coast division, and the river division. Along the immediate


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coast-line from the mouth of Gualala river to the vicinity of Stewart's Point there is a coastal shelf which is nowhere more than half a mile in width. A short distance south of Stewart's Point the foot-hills begin to run still nearer to the shore-line, leaving but a very narrow strip of level land; and from the vicinity of Fisk's Mills to the mouth of Russian river the shore-line is a succession of cliffs cut by the deep gulches of numerous small creeks, and only here and there habitable stretches of level land along the cliffs. From the mouth of Russian river to the southern limit of the area there stretches a belt of high, open land averaging a little over a half mile in width. This comparatively narrow strip along the entire immediate coast-line was probably the most thickly populated portion of this dialectic area and is here designated as the coast division.

Beginning with the foot-hills adjacent to the coast, the heavily timbered hills and mountains extend eastward beyond the limits of this dialectic area. In the northern part of the area the Gualala river runs in a deep canyon parallel to the coast-line, and separated from it by a high, timbered ridge. On both banks of the river and on the adjacent ridges are the sites of numerous old villages and camps, and this region is the one designated, for purposes of convenience, as the river division. To this division belong also the area along Austin creek and that along Russian river back from the coast. The separation of this dialectic area into coast and river divisions is more or less an artificial one, it should be remembered, for the actual distance of the river villages from the shore was in no case more than a few miles.

The foods used by all the people in this dialectic area were those characteristic of the coast region, as previously described. The various ocean products: fish, molluscs, and sea-weeds were plentiful; and acorns, grass seeds, bulbs, and other vegetable foods were found in the adjacent hills and mountains.

Coast Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

Stewart's Point, just south of the store at Stewart's Point, a shipping port for small coasting vessels. This is at present the site of a village of the Indians who are employed at work in the


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woods about Stewart's Point. Formerly, however, there was an old village, called dana'ga, located at this same site. The present village comprises six houses with a number of inhabitants varyingWhen visited on July 7, 1903, the number at Stewart's Point was about fifteen, only three of the houses being occupied. with the amount of work to be had in the lumber woods. The permanent home of these people is at pō'tōl, commonly spoken of as "Charlie Haupt's ranch."

tcala'ntcawi, on the south bank of Russian river near its mouth. There are here two houses and about eight Indians, most of whom came originally from the region of Bodega bay. These houses are situated on the site of an old village which was called by the same name.

Old Village Sites.

kabapūtce'malī, from kaba, madroña, pūtce'ma, stand up straight, and lī, place, at a point about two miles southeast of the mouth of Gualala river and near the shore-line of the ocean.

see'tōn, from see', brush, and tōn, on (?), at a point probably about four miles southeast of the mouth of Gualala river and near the shore-line of the ocean. This site is located on what is known as the Hans Peterson ranch.

tca'pida, at a point about a mile north of Black point.

kalī'nda, from ka'lī, up (a steep place), and da, trail, about a quarter of a mile north of Black point. This is said to have been a comparatively small village.

kōwī'cal, from kō, mussel, and wīca'l, ridge, at Black point. It appears that this was formerly a village of some importance and while it is not now inhabited permanently there is at the present time a family consisting of twelve Indians who are living temporarily on this site. kōwī'cal is also the name of Black point itself, and is derived from the fact that just off the point there are mussel-rocks extending over a considerable area which formerly provided an abundant supply of these molluscs for food.

dana'ga, from dana'. to cover up, and ga, ?, at Stewart's Point just south of the store at the landing and about where the present Indian village now stands. This was formerly a large village and there were extensive mussel-rocks off the shore at this point as also at Black point a few miles farther north.


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dūwīma'tcaeli, from dū'wī, coyote, ma'tca, sweat-house, and e'li, place, at a point about a mile and a quarter south-southeast of Stewart's Point. This site is located on a small conical hill near the shore-line of the ocean and it is from the shape of this hill that the village is said to have derived its name. There is, too, a myth connected with this place which relates that Coyote built a sweat-house here.

ōhō'mtōl, from ōhō'm, nettle, and tōl, place (?), at a point about a mile and a quarter south-southeast of Stewart's Point and just east of dūwīma'tcaeli. This is the site of a very ancient village and has been used in more recent times as a camp.

kapa'cīnal, from kapa', bracken, and cīna'l, head, at a point about two miles northwest of Fisk's Mills and near the shore-line.

tabatē'wī, from ta, beach, batē', big, and wī, on, at Fisk's Mills.

kabesīla'wīna, from kabē, rock, sīla', flat and wīna', upon, at Salt point. The county road, which here runs near the shore-line, passes through or very near this site.

tcī"tōnō, near the shore at a point about a mile southeast of Salt point.

tcitī'bidakalī, from tcitī', a kind of bush, bida', creek, and kalī, ?, at a point about three-quarters of a mile north of the old village of sū'lmewī, at Timber Cove. This village bears the same name as a camp located at a point about two miles and a half farther up the coast. According to one informant there was formerly a village called tsūka'e, from tsūka', a small edible mollusc, Chlorostoma funebrale in this vicinity which may be the same as tcitī'bidakalī.

sū'lmewī, from sūl, rope, me, ?, and wī, place, on the north shore of Timber Cove.

ōtō'nōe, from ōtō'ne, the edible purple seaweed, on the south-eastern shore of Timber Cove and near Folmer Gulch.

metē'nī, at Fort Ross. This site was at some little distance from the shore-line and just in the edge of the redwood forest which covers the adjacent mountains to the east. In speaking of the Indians of this region PowersTribes of Cal., p. 194. says, "Around Fort Ross there is a fragment of a tribe called by the Gualala, E-rus'-si,


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which name is probably another relic of the Russian occupation." He refers to the occupation of Fort Ross and the adjacent country by the Russians from 1811 to 1840. Their control extended as far south as Bodega bay and it is possible that the name "E-ri'-o" which he saysIbid. is the name given by the Spaniards to the tribe living at the mouth of Russian River" may also have had a Russian origin, though it is more probably Spanish. Both these names are given by Powell,Op. cit., p. 88. probably on the authority of Powers, in his list of Pomo "tribes." The Indian name of the site of Fort Ross was, according to Thompson,The Russian Settlement in California known as Fort Ross, p. 4, Santa Rosa, 1896. "Mad-shui-nui," while Bancroft,Native Races, I, 449. upon the authority of Kostromitonow, says, "Chwachamaju (Russian Severnovskia), or Northerners, is the name of one of the tribes in the vicinity of Fort Ross," and again, upon the authority of Ludewig, "Severnovskia, Severnozer, or `Northerners,' Indians north of Bodega Bay. They call themselves Chwachamaja."

bace'yōkailī, from bace', buckeye, yō, probably under, ka, water, and e'llī or lī, place, near the shore at a point about three miles southeast of Fort Ross. There is at this place a large spring which is shaded by buckeye trees, hence the name.

pō'wicana, from pō, red, wī, place, and ca'na, ridge, on what is known as the Walter Fisk ranch at a point about four miles southeast of Fort Ross. This village derived its name from the fact that there is here a spring, the water of which sometimes has a reddish tint.

tsū'kantītcanawī, at a point probably about a mile nearly due north of the ranch house on the Charles Rule ranch and about two miles north of the mouth of Russian River.

kalemala'tō, at a point about half a mile north of the ranch house on the Charles Rule ranch and about a mile and a half north of the mouth of Russian river.

kata'ka, at a point about a mile northeast of the ranch house on the Charles Rule ranch.


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tsūba'tcemalī, from tsū'ba, a kind of bush, tce'ma, flat hole, and lī, place, at a point about a mile northeast of the mouth of Russian river and about three-quarters of a mile back from the shore-line of the ocean. The ranch house on the Charles Rule ranch now stands on this site.

tcamū'ka, at a point about half a mile west of the ranch house on the Charles Rule ranch. This site is on the same ridge as the ranch house above mentioned and is but a short distance from the shore, the ridge extending as a promontory for some distance out into the ocean.

tcala'ntcawi, on the south bank of Russian River near its mouth. There are at present two houses on this old site in which about eight Indians live. The present settlement is also called tcala'ntcawi.

a'ca'tcatīū, from a"ca, fish, and tca'tī, house, or talaLû'pū (Western Moquelumnan dialect name) from ta'la, stand up, and Lû'pū or Lūpû, rock, at a point about half a mile from the northern extremity and near the summit of the ridge immediately south of the mouth of the Russian river. This high ridge projects as a point some distance northwestward from the ridge extending southward along the coast from Russian river, and shuts in and protects a fairly broad and deep body of water at the mouth of the river. This village was located near some prominent rocks which stand on the summit of this point and hence the name which the Moquelumnan people to the south gave to it.

kabē'malī, from kabē', rock, and ma'lī, there or place (?), or lippūla'mma (Western Moquelumnan dialect name) at Duncan's point about six miles southeast of the mouth of Russian river. Southwestern Pomo informants quite uniformly state that their territory extended only a very short distance south of the mouth of Russian river and none of them have so far been found who claim the territory as far south as Duncan's point, most of them stating that their territory only extended for a very short distance south of the river. However, the Moquelumnan informants of the vicinity are very positive in their statements that the territory of the Southwestern Pomo extended as far south as Salmon creek, and that their own territory only extended as far north as Salmon creek. In the absence of any informants from


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the territory in question itself and in view of the probable correctness of the latter of the two views given, it has seemed advisable to consider the territory lying between Russian river and Salmon creek as Pomo, which places this village site within Pomo territory. According to early writers the Coyote valley Moquelumnan people called the Pomo of Big valley on Clear lake by this name, which they spell "Lupayuma," "Lopillamillo," and other ways.See p. 195.

Old Camp Sites.

kadjūsa'malī, from a'ka, water, djūsa'm, the bottom of a waterfall (?), and ma'lī, there or place (?), near the shore-line of the ocean about a mile southeast of the old village of kōwī'cal at Black Point.

tūlekalē'yō, from tū'le, hummingbird, kale', tree, and yō, under, at a point a little over a mile northwest of Stewart's Point. This site was located near the shore-line and but about four hundred yards north of tcīkō'bīda, the two being so close together that it has been necessary to indicate them on the accompanying map by a single symbol.

tcīkō'bīda, from tcīkō', to touch something with an object (?), and bīda', creek, at a point about a mile northwest of Stewart's Point. This camp was located only about four hundred yards south of tūlekalē'yō. These two sites are so close together that it has been necessary to indicate them on the accompanying map by a single symbol.

tō'ntōtcīmatcī, about three-quarters of a mile north-northwest of Stewart's Point.

suldjō"tūmalī, from sūl, snag of a tree (?), djō"tō, to stand up, and ma'lī, there or place (?), at a point about a quarter of a mile north of Stewart's Point. One informant gave this as the name of a camp a short distance north of tō'ntōtcīmatcī.

pacū'kitmawalī, from pa, excrement, cū'kit, small string, mawa'lī, to place (?), about half a mile south of Stewart's Point.

ma'tīmalī, near the shore-line of the ocean about two miles southeast of Stewart's Point. It is said that there is here a place some fifty or sixty yards in diameter which sounds hollow like a


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drum as one walks over it. The drum referred to is, of course, the aboriginal Pomo drum, which is simply a large section of a log worked to an even thickness of perhaps an inch and a half and placed, curved surface upward, over a long narrow resonance pit a foot or more deep. By stamping on this with the bare feet the drummer produces a deep hollow tone to the accompaniment of which the dancers move.

he'malakahwalaū, from hem or behe'm, pepperwood or California laurel, ma'la, beside, ka, water, and hwa'laū, to flow down or flow into, on the coast at a point about three miles southeast of Stewart's Point.

batsa'tsal, from batsa'tsa, Cascara, on the coast at a point about three miles and a half southeast of Stewart's Point.

dū'wīkalawakalī, from dū'wī, coyote, ka'la, dead, and wa'kali, ?, on the coast at a point about four miles southeast of Stewart's Point.

bacē'wī, from bace', buckeye, wī, place, at a point about three-quarters of a mile northwest of Fisk's Mills.

sōhō'ibida, from sōhō'i, sea-lion, and bida', creek, at a point about half a mile northwest of Fisk's Mills.

tcitī'bidakalī, from tcitī', a kind of bush, bīda', creek, and kalī, ?, at a point about a mile and a quarter south of Fisks Mills. This camp is situated at or near the point where the road which runs along the ridge just west of Gualala river, passing Seaview and Plantation, comes into the main coast road running from Stewart's Point down to Fort Ross. One informant mentioned a camp, called gasī'nyō, in this vicinity, and it is possible that tcitī'bidakalī is the one meant. This name was also applied to an old village about two miles and a half down the coast from this camp.

ta'tcbīda, from tatc, sand, and bīda', creek, about half a mile northwest of Salt point.

ledama'lī, just southeast of Salt point.

dī"kata, from dī"kat, to whittle, rather indefinitely located about a mile southeast of Salt point.

amaya'latcī, from a'ma, ground, ya'la, level, and tcī, ?, at a point about two miles southeast of Fort Ross.

ūkūtco'k (Western Moquelumnan dialect name), near a small


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creek which empties directly into the ocean at a point about two and a half miles southeast of the mouth of Russian river.

tcī'tī, at a point about four miles southeast of the mouth of Russian river.

napagīpū'lak (Western Moquelumnan dialect name) from napa'gī, mussel, and pū'lak, pond, about a mile south of the old village of kabē'malī at Duncan's point and about seven miles south-southeast of the mouth of Russian river.

hapa'mū (Western Moquelumnan dialect name) about two miles south of Duncan's point and about eight miles south-south-east of the mouth of Russian river.

ōyēmū'kū (Western Moquelumnan dialect name) from ō'ye, coyote, and mū'kū, trail, on the sand-bar at the mouth of Salmon creek at the extreme southern limit of the Southwestern dialectic area as given by Moquelumnan informants. Southwestern Pomo informants do not claim the territory as far south as this site; but Moquelumnan informants assert very positively that their own territory extended only as far north as Salmon creek and that that of the Southwestern Pomo extended down to this stream.

River Division.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

pō'tōl, from pō, red, and katū'l, spring, what is commonly known as Charley Haupt's ranch located near the head of Haupt creek, one of the southern affluents of the middle fork of Gualala river. This is located about nine miles a little south of east of Stewart's Point and about three miles south-southwest of Noble's, a ranch and stopping-place near the confluence of Wolf creek, Hopper creek, and the north fork of the middle fork of Gualala river, where these three streams join to form the middle fork of Gualala river. This village consists of six dwellings and a large dance-house and is located but a very short distance north of the ranch house on the Haupt ranch. The number of Indians living at this village varies somewhat according to the season, as it is the home of quite a number of Indians who at certain seasons of the year are employed in the lumber woods, bark camps, etc., along the coast; and in various capacities on the ranches in the


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valleys. The total number who claim this village as their home is probably about sixty or seventy, and these are all to be found here when dances and ceremonials are held. During the greater part of the year, however, the average number probably does not exceed twenty. The name of this village arises from the fact that there is here a mineral spring, the water of which leaves a reddish deposit along its course, hence the name red spring.

Old Village Sites.

tcūma'tī (this name has something to do with the idea of sitting down), on the summit of the ridge between the main branch of Gualala river and the middle fork at a point about three miles from the confluence of the two streams.

mūtca'wī, from mūtca', a sort of grass seed, and wī, place, on the summit of the ridge separating the main branch of Gualala river from the middle fork and at a point about six miles southeast of the confluence of the two streams, and about five miles a little north of east of the present village of pō'tōl.

atcacīnatca'wallī, from a'tca, man, cīna', head, tca'wal, sitting down (?), and lī, place, on the eastern slope of the summit of the ridge just east of the main branch of Gualala river and at a point about four and a half miles nearly due west of the present village of pō'tōl.

kaleca'dim, from kale', tree, and ca'dim, little ridge, on the eastern slope of the summit of the ridge just east of the main branch of Gualala river and at a point about four and a quarter miles nearly due west of the present village of pō'tōl. This site is not over a quarter of a mile southeast of the one last mentioned.

tcala'mkīamalī, from tca'lam, a plant found abundantly at this particular place, kī, ?, and amalī, flat ground (?), on the eastern slope of the summit of the ridge immediately east of the main branch of Gualala river and at a point about four miles a little south of west of the present village of pō'tōl and about a quarter of a mile southeast of the last mentioned site.

ta'dōnō, from ta, bird, and dōnō' or danō', mountain, on the eastern slope of the summit of the ridge immediately east of the main branch of Gualala river at a point about three and three-quarters miles a little south of west of the present village of pō'tōl and about half a mile southeast of the last mentioned site.


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t!a'tcūmawalī, from t!a, said to signify to wind around, tcū'ma, to place, and walī, on both sides, on the eastern slope of the summit of the ridge immediately east of the main branch of Gualala river at a point about two and one-half miles southwest of the present village of pō'tōl and at a point about two miles southeast of the last mentioned site.

la'laka, from la'la, wild goose, and ka, spring or water, on the eastern slope of the summit of the ridge east of the main branch of Gualala river at a point about two and one-half miles south-southwest of the present village of pō'tōl.

kōbōtcītca'kalī, from kō'bō, a kind of grass, and tcītca'kalī, said to signify a narrow open strip of land, at a point on the summit of the ridge just west of the main branch of Gualala river and about a quarter of a mile north of Plantation.

kīca'iyī, from kīca', sea gull, and yī, ?, at a point about half a mile southeast of Plantation.

tca'mōkōme, at a point about a mile northwest of Seaview. This village site lies to the west of the stage road running along the ridge from Seaview to Plantation.

seepī'namatcī, at Seaview. This site is directly in front, west, of the Seaview hotel.

hībū'wī, from hībū', Indian potato, and wī, place, at a point about half a mile north of the middle fork of Gualala river and about five miles east of its confluence with the main branch. This village site is probably in the vicinity referred to by Powers in speaking of the people whom he calls the Gualala. He says, "There is a certain locality on Gualala creek, called by them Hi'-po-wi, which signifies `potato place."'Tribes of Cal., p. 189.

dū'kacal, from dū'kac, abalone, and al, ?, at a point about half a mile north-northwest of the present village of pō'tōl.

tana'm, in the mountains between the headwaters of Austin creek and the main branch of Gualala river, and at a point probably about five miles southeast of the present village of pō'tōl.

kaletcū'maial, in the mountains between the headwaters of Austin creek and the main branch of Gualala river and at a point about a mile and a half southeast of the last named site.


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tsapū'wil, in the mountains between the headwaters of Austin creek and the main branch of Gualala river, and at a point about three miles southeast of tana'm.

Old Camp Sites.

kōōmtcōbō'tcalī, near the summit of the ridge immediately west of the main branch of Gualala river and at a point about two and a half miles miles nearly due north of Fisk's Mills.

ta'nahīmō, from tana', hand, and hī'mō, hole, on the east bank of the main branch of Gualala river at a point about a mile and a half nearly due north of Seaview.

cape'tōme, near the east bank of the main branch of Gualala river at a point about a mile northeast of Seaview.

ma'tcōkō, from ma, ground, and tcō'kō, to kneel down upon both knees, on what is known as the Charles Wilson ranch on the summit of the ridge immediately west of the main branch of Gualala river, and at a point about a mile south-southeast of Seaview. This was a camp used for purposes of food gathering, the immediate vicinity being open or sparsely wooded ridges which provided an abundance of grass seeds and bulbs. This site is located just south of the point at which the road leading from Fort Ross to Cazadero joins the one running along the ridge from Plantation to Cazadero.

kabē'batēlī, from kabē', rock, batē', big, and lī, place, at or near Cazadero. An exact location could not be obtained for this site, one informant stating that it was near a large rock located a short distance southeast of Cazadero, and another that it was located near a large rock just north of that place.

hatcī'wīna, from atcī', sedge, and wīna', on top of, on the north bank of Russian river at Duncan's Mill, about five miles up the river from the ocean.

tcaikōsadō'tcanī, from tca, man kō'sa, elbow, dō'tcanī, to place one's hand upon, in the mountains at a point about three-quarters of a mile from the northeast bank of the middle fork of Gualala river and about the same distance east-southeast of the old village of hībū'wī.

ne'kawī, from ne'ū, to lay anything down, ka, water or spring, and wī, place, at a point about three-quarters of a mile east northeast


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of the confluence of Fuller creek with the middle fork of Gualala river.

ta'tcaka, from ta'tc, sand, and a'ka, water or spring, at a point about a mile due west of the present village of pō'tōl.

te'kalēwī, from te, elderberry, kale', tree, and wī, place, at a point about a mile and a quarter south-southwest of the present village of pō'tōl.

Northeastern Dialect.

Boundaries.

The territory comprising the Northeastern dialectic area has been heretofore regarded as Wintun and is so designated on the maps accompanying Powers' "Tribes of California" and Powell's "Indian Linguistic Families North of Mexico," but it was found in the course of the present investigations that a comparatively small area situated on the headwaters of Stony creek is inhabited by a people speaking a dialect distinct from, though allied to, the several Pomo dialects spoken in the main area of the stock lying west of the Coast Range. This fact was noted in 1904.American Anthropologist, n.s., VI, 189, 190, 1904.

Beginning on the crest of the Coast Range, which forms also the divide between Sacramento and Eel rivers, at a point about half way between Sheet Iron and St. John mountains, the boundary of the Northeastern Pomo dialectic area runs in a general easterly direction to the low hills immediately west of Stony creek or Big Stony creek as it is locally called. Here it turns in a southerly direction and crosses Big Stony creek just west of the confluence of little Stony creek with it.It was impossible to determine exactly the western part of the northern boundary of this area, as it seems not to have been very clearly defined. The line is drawn on the map a short distance west of the confluence of Little and Big Stony creeks, but there seem to have been no very rigid restrictions in the territory immediately at the confluence of these streams, both Pomo and Wintun hunting and fishing there at will. The food-gathering rights, however, were controlled by the Wintun living on Little Stony creek, and the territory was considered as belonging to them. Throughout this portion of its course the boundary separates the Northeastern Pomo from the Northerly Wintun area. From this point on Big


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Stony creek it passes southward, along the low ridge separating Big and Little Stony creeks, for a distance of about four miles; and thence, turning westward, it runs along a secondary ridge on the northern slope of the divide south of Big Stony creek valley to the crest of the Coast Range at a point near the head of the south fork of Stony creek. To the east and south of this portion of the boundary lies the territory of the Southerly Wintun. The western boundary is the crest of the Coast Range, beyond which the Yuki territory extends over the greater part of the region drained by the headwaters of Eel river.

This small, detached Pomo area was surrounded on the north, east, and south by Wintun territory, while the Yuki bordered it on the west.

General Description.

The people speaking the Northeastern Pomo dialect thus lived in an isolated area consisting of the drainage basin of the upper headwaters of Big Stony creek, and were separated from the main Pomo area by Yuki and Wintun territory and the highest portion of the Coast Range mountains. The portion of the valley of Stony creek held by the Northeastern Pomo is from a quarter of a mile to three-quarters of a mile wide, and extends from the northern boundary of the area up nearly to the confluence of the south fork of Stony creek with the main stream. Low hills on the east separate this valley from the Sacramento valley, while on the west the Coast Range mountains rise very abruptly. Some of the highest peaks of this portion of the Coast Range are here: Snow Mt. and St. John Mt. The entire area is only sparsely wooded in the foot-hills, but there are considerable forests of pine on the higher mountains. Native grasses and flowering plants were formerly very abundant and these, together with the oaks, furnished vegetable foods, while game was plentiful in the mountains and fish were to be had at certain seasons in the streams.

Salt Deposits.

Among the foot-hills of Colusa and Glenn counties are several large seepages where salt-bearing water evaporates and leaves the salt crystallized upon the surface. The best known and probably the largest of these seepages and salt-beds, as the surfaces


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upon which the salt crystallizes are called, is the one in what is known as Salt-spring valley about three and one-half miles north of the town of Stonyford and about a mile west of Big Stony creek. This salt-bed is situated on the northeast side of a very narrow valley and is surrounded on the east and south by low brush covered hills from which at many points brackish water seeps into the earth of the salt-bed. This earth, which covers about three-quarters of an acre, is, when dry, a dirty white in color and of the fineness of chalk dust, and forms a layer, reaching a depth of about three and one-half feet near the middle of the bed, over the ordinary black soil common in the vicinity. During the rainy season the salt does not crystallize, but during the summer months it forms a white coat, very much resembling snow, over the entire surface of the bed, and reaches sometimes a depth of three or four inches. It is then that it is gathered by the Indians and stored either in the crude state or after refining, which consists in dissolving the crude material in water from which it re-crystallizes upon evaporation of the water, leaving a finely-divided, white salt which is very palatable.Dr. W. C. Morgan of the Department of Chemistry of the University of California has made an analysis of the salt refined by the Indians from crude material obtained at the deposit in Salt-spring valley, and finds that it contains 28% of insoluble material. Of the soluble material 99.2% is sodium chloride, thus showing the soluble portion to be more pure than the ordinary salt of commerce. The refining process removes a large percentage of insoluble material from the crude salt, but the process, as this analysis shows, is inadequate to thorough purification. As before stated, the refined product is very palatable, and is white notwithstanding the fact that 28% of it is extraneous material. This latter fact is probably due to the circumstance that the surface of the seepage is a finely-divided white earth. The refined salt is not perceptibly affected by damp weather because of its almost total lack of magnesium chloride.

It seems that the people speaking the Northeastern Pomo dialect exercised, or at least attempted to exercise, full property rights in respect to the salt at this particular place, and made it an article of trade with their neighbors, at least at times, though there are differences of opinion as to how they sold it. They themselves say that they sometimes sold the refined salt and that at other times they required a payment for the privilege of gathering the crude material from the salt-bed. Some of the Pomo from the Clear lake and upper Russian river region say they were not required to buy the crude salt, but at the same time


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there come from this region stories of salt-stealing expeditions to the Stony creek salt-bed.

It appears that for many years past the Pomo of the Clear lake and upper Russian river region have not obtained salt from the Stony creek salt-bed on account of ill feeling existing between them and the Stony creek people. One informant, a Huchnom Yuki in Potter valley, at the head of the east fork of Russian river, says that many years ago, when the Potter valley and Stony creek people were on friendly terms, some of the former went over to Stony creek and attempted to steal salt. A fight resulted in which some of the Potter valley party were killed. At the time there were some Stony creek people visiting in Potter valley and as soon as the news of the fight on Stony creek reached the villages of Potter valley these people were killed in retaliation. Since that time the Potter valley people have depended on the ocean for salt.

Another informant from Big valley, on the southern shore of Clear lake, tells the following story of the salt trade: About 1825 to 1835, as nearly as may be judged from events of known dates mentioned in connection with the story, a party consisting of Indians from the villages in Big valley and the village of cī'gōm, on the eastern shore of the main body of Clear lake, was organized to go to Stony creek to dance with the people there, and procure salt. A dance was held at one of the villages in Big valley before the party left. After two days' travel they arrived at a village on Stony creek called in the Eastern dialect keē'wī-na from keē', salt, and wīna', upon or near to. As was customary on such occasions, they halted a short distance from the village and dressed themselves for the dance, meanwhile sending one of their number to the village to announce their coming. All, both visitors and residents, went into the dance house and the dance was celebrated in the usual manner, being followed by a plunge in the creek. When the dancers returned from the creek some of the women of the village were busy pounding acorns into meal, and all seemed as it should be with the exception of one old woman who acted strangely and mumbled constantly hapūkamaialtūtsī'. No one seemed to understand what she was saying,


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and some of the visitors remarked that she should be happy with all the rest.

The visitors were soon served with food in the dance-house, and while they were eating the residents of the village all disappeared save the old woman, who came into the dance-house gesticulating wildly and repeating hapūkamaialtūtsī' in a loud, earnest whisper. Finally she took two sticks and made signs of shooting with the bow and arrow, and the visitors then understood that she wished to warn them of danger. Two of the party urged that all should return home at once, citing the fact that many people had been killed on account of the salt trade; but the others refused, saying that the people were perfectly friendly and they would stay and enjoy a good dance that night. The two, however, left, and had been gone but a short time when the residents of the village returned, accompanied by some of the members of nearby villages, all fully armed, and succeeded in killing all those in the dance-house. They then scalped their victims and stretched the scalps over rude baskets made for the purpose, each of which was fastened to a short pole (scalping was very unusual among the Pomo). Having ornamented the scalps with beads and properly prepared them for the dance, they went to a village north of theirs (this village was indefinitely located by the informant but, from the description of its inhabitants, was undoubtedly a Yuki village), where scalping and scalp dancing were customary, and celebrated the massacre. The details of the massacre and of the scalp dance which followed were learned by the Clear lake people only some years later, for the two men who escaped made good their safety without waiting to see any part of the outcome of the old woman's warning.

A few years after the coming of the first American settlers into the Clear lake region, about 1840,See p. 198. the Indians of Big valley organized a party which went over to a fish dam on the head of Stony creek and ambushed two Northeastern Pomo fishermen, killing them as they came to the dam to look after their traps. They then scalped them, and a dance was held at one of the villages in Big valley to celebrate the occasion.

Since the time of the massacre the Clear lake people have never obtained salt from the Stony creek salt-bed, except very


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recently since the white people have had full possession of the land upon which it is situated.

It is a significant fact that the Stony creek Pomo were, at least in more recent times, on most intimate terms with the Yuki, who were very hostile to the Pomo of the Russian river and Clear lake region. The Yuki enjoyed very great privileges within the Stony creek territory and, notwithstanding the great differences of language between the two peoples, intermarriage was not at all uncommon.

There were regular trails to this salt-bed from Potter valley, from Upper Lake valley, and from Round valley, as well as from the Sacramento valley. The trail from Potter valley, according to one informant, ran over Big Horse mountain and thence across Rice fork of South Eel river to Snow mountain, where it divided. If a party wished to buy salt, they took the trail leading directly down Stony creek; but if they intended to steal it, they passed on northward along the crest of the range to the north side of St. John mountain, where a trail led directly down to the salt-bed, thus removing the danger of passing any villages. According to an informant from Upper lake the salt trail from that valley led in a northeasterly direction to some hot springs on the extreme head of Middle creek, thence to Snow mountain, and on down Stony creek. If his people wished to steal salt they went this same trail, but at night. No information could be had concerning the trail which led from Round valley and other parts of the Yuki territory other than that it ran through a pass just north of St. John mountain.

Inhabited Modern Village Sites.

Stonyford Rancheria, at a point about two and one-half miles west of the town of Stonyford. This is the only village inhabited by people speaking the Northeastern Pomo dialect. It is situated on the lower slope of the foot-hills a short distance north of Big Stony creek and consists of five houses and about twelve inhabitants who are practically all from the old villages of this valley. No name for this village was given by its inhabitants, but the people of the Southerly Wintun dialect living on Little Stony and Indian creeks call it nō'pnōkēwī.


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Old Village Sites.

tcee'tīdō, at a point about three and one-half miles north of the town of Stonyford and a mile west of Big Stony creek. This site is located on the northeast side of what is known as Salt-spring valley near the large salt-bed there.See the section dealing with Salt Deposits. This village derived its name from the salt, tcee'.

kakōska'l, or tcō'kLabe in the Southerly Wintun dialect, on the west bank of Big Stony creek at a point about two and a half miles north of the town of Stonyford. This site is on what is known as the Bickford ranch.

ta'taca, on the west bank of Big Stony creek at a point about two miles north of the town of Stonyford.

kata'kta, on the west bank of Big Stony creek at a point about a mile and a half north of the town of Stonyford.

dūhūltamtī'wa, or nō'minLabe in the Southerly Wintun dialect, on the north bank of Big Stony creek immediately north of the town of Stonyford.

mihiltamtī'wa, near the foot-hills east of Big Stony creek, and at a point about three-quarters of a mile northeast of the town of Stonyford. There is some doubt as to the name of this village, but the one given is probably correct.

baka'mtatī, or torodī'Labe in the Southerly Wintun dialect, on the south bank of Big Stony creek at the site of the grist mill just north of the town of Stonyford. At the time of the coming of white settlers this was one of the largest villages in this valley.

ōdī'laka, on the south bank of Big Stony creek at a point about two miles west of the town of Stonyford.

amō'tatī, on the south bank of Big Stony creek at a point about three and one-half miles west of the town of Stonyford.

tū'rūrūraibīda, near the south bank of the middle fork of Big Stony creek and at a point about one mile northwest of the confluence of the south and middle forks.

Old Camp Sites.

pakatca'hūya, at a point half way up the southeastern slope of St. John mountain.

wa'imūn, near the summit of St. John mountain.

About this text
Courtesy of The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, CA 94720-6000; http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/
http://content.cdlib.org/view?docId=hb9779p385&brand=oac4
Title: The ethno-geography of the Pomo and neighboring Indians, by S.A. Barrett
By:  Barrett, S. A. (Samuel Alfred), 1879-1965, Author
Date: 1908
Contributing Institution: The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, CA 94720-6000; http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/
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