Guide to the Bernard Johnson Papers
MS.P.053
Finding aid prepared by Joanna Lamb; Judy Chou
Special Collections and Archives, University of California, Irvine Libraries
The UCI Libraries
P.O. Box 19557
University of California, Irvine
Irvine, California, 92623-9557
949-824-3947
spcoll@uci.edu
© 2014
Title: Bernard Johnson papers
Identifier/Call Number: MS.P.053
Contributing Institution:
Special Collections and Archives, University of California, Irvine Libraries
Language of Material:
English
Physical Description:
7.3 linear feet
(7 boxes and 1 oversize folder)
Date: 1957-1997
Abstract: This collection documents the career of Bernard Johnson, a dancer, costume designer, director, choreographer, and teacher
who served as the first professor of costume design at UC Irvine from 1991-1997. Materials document Johnson's professional
work in theatre, film, and television, as well as his tenure in academia. The collection consists of original costume design
artwork, clippings, correspondence, photographs, negatives, ephemera, and other material.
Creator:
Johnson, Bernard, 1936-1997
Access
The collection is open for research.
Access to original video recordings is restricted; researchers may request use copies.
Publication Rights
Property rights reside with the University of California. Copyrights are retained by the creators of the records and their
heirs. For permission to reproduce or to publish, please contact the Head of Special Collections and Archives.
Preferred Citation
Bernard Johnson papers. MS-P053. Special Collections and Archives, The UC Irvine Libraries, Irvine, California. Date accessed.
For the benefit of current and future researchers, please cite any additional information about sources consulted in this
collection, including permanent URLs, item or folder descriptions, and box/folder locations.
Acquisition Information
Gifts, 2001-2002.
Processing History
Processed by Judy Chou, 2014.
Biography
Born on December 12, 1936, Bernard Johnson was raised in Detroit, Michigan with four sisters and one brother. At the age of
eleven, Johnson voluntarily attended ballet classes with his younger sister and soon became enthralled with the art of dance.
He also credited his fascination with dance to the film
Red Shoes, which he viewed as a child.
Even though Johnson started off as a dancer, he soon became involved in the art of costuming. In 1954 at the age of 18, he
won a scholarship to attend the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York. At FIT, he studied fashion design and dancing,
which included modern dance, tap dancing, classical, jazz, Katherine Dunham techniques, and other styles. At 5’2”, Johnson
became part of the New York Negro Ballet ensemble (now the Ballet Americana) between the ages of 18 and 19. It was around
this time that he met and married fellow dancer Cleo Quitman, with whom he had one son, Byian. He became the lead dancer of
the “Bluebird pas de deux” from the theatrical production of
Sleeping Beauty, which was held at the Edinburgh Festival in Edinburgh, Scotland. During this time, he also danced the mambo and samba onstage
with Josephine Baker.
After graduating, Johnson amassed an extensive list of credits as a director, choreographer, performer, costume designer,
and teacher, working in theatre, television, and film. He co-choreographed, directed, and designed the costumes for Broadway
Soul at Lincoln Center as a Broadway veteran. He also performed and directed numerous theatrical productions throughout the
United States, South Korea, and Russia. He had his own costume design company in New York called Estudio Inc. and was eventually
nicknamed the “Black Cecil Beaton.”
Throughout his career, Johnson won numerous awards including an Emmy Award for costume design for
To All My Friends in 1972, a Harveys Bristol Cream Tribute to Black Designer Award in 1980, and two Tony Awards for
Raisins in 1974 and
Eubie in 1979. In 1977, Johnson was inducted to the Black Filmmakers Hall of Fame for Costume Design. His costumes were also showcased
at the now defunct Black Fashion Museum in Harlem and later Washington, D.C. Johnson taught at various schools throughout
the nation, including the Alvin Ailey American Dance Center, the New Dance Group Studios, the American Dance Festival (Duke
University), Clark Center for the Performing Arts, and UC Irvine’s Dance Department. He also taught in Moscow, Russia in 1992
under the auspices of the American Dance Festival and was an associate director of Dance Ellington.
In 1991, on the recommendation of UC Irvine dance professor and choreographer Donald McKayle, Johnson was recruited as the
first UC Irvine professor of costume design for dancers, obtaining an appointment as an assistant professor of dance. He taught
students how to draw designs, create patterns, sew, and choose and work with different patterns. He also designed costumes
for faculty and student concerts. On January 22, 1997, Johnson passed away at St. Luke's-Roosevelt Hospital in Manhattan,
New York at the age of 60. He was survived by his son, a grandson, two sisters, and partner George R. Bergeron. A public memorial
service was held for Johnson at UC Irvine’s Concert Hall. A theatrical tribute was also held in his honor at UC Irvine’s School
of Arts Dance Vision II concert.
Collection Scope and Content Summary
This collection documents the career of Bernard Johnson, a dancer, costume designer, director, choreographer, and teacher
who served as the first professor of costume design at UC Irvine from 1991-1997. Materials document Johnson's professional
work in theatre, film, and television, as well as his tenure in academia. The collection consists of original costume design
artwork, clippings, correspondence, photographs, negatives, ephemera, and other material.
Collection Arrangement
This collection is arranged in 7 series:
- Series 1. Correspondence and biographical materials, 1975-1997, undated, 0.25 linear feet
- Series 2. Photographic materials, 1978-1979, 1993-1995 and undated, 0.5 linear feet
- Series 3. Original artworks, 1984, 1993 and undated, 3.3 linear feet
- Series 4. Video recordings, 1990-1995, undated, 0.1 linear feet
- Series 5. Clippings, 1957-1993 and undated, 2.1 linear feet
- Series 6. Theatrical printed ephemera, 1973-1996, undated, 0.8 linear feet
- Series 7. UC Irvine, 1991-1995, undated, 0.25 linear feet
Subjects and Indexing Terms
Johnson, Bernard -- Archives
University of California, Irvine. -- Faculty -- Archives
Costume design drawings.
Costume designers
Ephemera -- 20th century
Theater -- 20th century -- Archives
Correspondence and biographical materials Series 1.
1975-1997, undated
Physical Description:
0.25 Linear feet
Series Scope and Content Summary
This series is primarily comprised of personal and professional correspondence from Johnson's friends, family, students, and
colleagues. Personal correspondence includes letters, postcards, and greeting cards. Contracts, agreements, resumes, and awards
pertaining to Johnson's theatrical career are included with professional correspondence. Select correspondence from friends
and family contains accompanying photographs. A transcript of a biographical interview proofread by Johnson is also included.
Series Arrangement
This series is arranged alphabetically.
Box 1, Folder 1
Curriculum vita and letterheads
1992 and 1996
Box 1, Folder 2
Interview transcript, obituaries, and reproductions of artwork
1995 and 1996
Box 1, Folder 3-4
Personal letters, postcards, and greeting cards
1980-1989 and undated
Box 1, Folder 5
Professional letters, contracts, and resumes
1975-1983 and undated
Photographic materials Series 2.
1978-1979, 1993-1995 and undated
Physical Description:
0.5 Linear feet
Series Scope and Content Summary
This series consists of original and reproduction photographs, negatives, slides, record cover sleeves, and oversize posters.
While the bulk of the materials document theatrical productions for which Johnson designed, select photographs depict family
members and events from Johnson's personal life. Productions include
Bingo Long,
Enbrie,
Eubie,
The Copa Girls, and other performances. Select posters are signed by Johnson.
Series Arrangement
This series is arranged alphabetically.
Box 1, Folder 6
Negatives and slides of
Crazy Horse entertainment event and unidentified productions
undated
Box 1, Folder 7-8, Box 8, Folder 1
Photographs of family,
Bingo Long,
The Copa Girls,
Enbrie, and
Eubie
undated
Box 8, Folder 1
Photographs of family, professional headshots,
The Copa Girls, and other unidentified productions
1978-1979 and undated
Folder XOS 1
Posters of the Dayton Dance Company, Splash: Finley and the Mermaids, and
Onstage: A Century of African American Stage Design
1993-1995
Box 8, Folder 2
Record covers of
Don't Knock My Love,
Ain't Supposed to Die a Natural Death, and
The Temptations
undated
Box 8, Folder 3
Reproductions of photographs of
Melba and other unidentified productions
undated
Original artworks Series 3.
1984, 1993 and undated
Physical Description:
3.3 Linear feet
Series Scope and Content Summary
This series contains original artworks created by Bernard Johnson in the course of his career as a designer for theatre and
fashion. While the bulk of the materials are original 16 x 20'' works of art on paper created for theatrical productions,
select items are high-resolution reproductions printed on 8 1/2 x 11'' paper. Color swatches, fabric swatches, pattern cutout
drafts, and photographs are also included.
Johnson worked in a variety of artistic media, including pencil, marker, pastel, pen and ink, and paint. Many artworks contain
inscriptions identifying the name and origin of the theatrical production for which the design was created, though it is unclear
if all of these were the theatrical titles. A small selection of works are signed by Johnson's costume design assistant George
R. Bergeron, with whom Johnson coauthored a manuscript entitled "Costume Design for Dancers: A Basic Guide," also included
in this series. The manuscript contains copies of handwritten notes with accompanying reproductions of artwork. A number of
Johnson's drawings were inspired by celebrities, including Bessie Smith, Billie Holiday, Gladys Knight, Josephine Baker, Louis
Armstrong, Nat Cole, Stevie Wonder,The Pirs, The Supremes, and The Temptations. While works are identified by celebrity names,
there is no indication that Johnson was commissioned to design for each individual.
Series Arrangement
This series is arranged in three subseries:
- Subseries 3.1 Reproductions, 1984 and undated, 1.1 linear feet
- Subseries 3.2 Sketchbooks, undated, 1.1 linear feet
- Subseries 3.3 Unbound artworks, 1979, 1993 and undated, 1.1 linear feet
Reproductions Subseries 3.1
1984 and undated
Physical Description:
1.1 Linear feet
Subseries Scope and Content Summary
This subseries contains reproductions of original artworks and manuals on 8 1/2 x 11'' paper. Select reproductions have accompanying
photographs depicting the live performances for which the costumes were designed.
Subseries Arrangement
This subseries is arranged alphabetically.
Box 1, Folder 11
A Chance to Sit Down
undated
Box 1, Folder 1
Daughter of the Garden
undated
Box 1, Folder 11
It was just like magic
undated
Box 1, Folder 11
Rex Cabaret & Casino
undated
Box 1, Folder 11
Secret Combinations
undated
Box 1, Folder 9-11
Unidentified productions
undated
Sketchbooks Subseries 3.2
undated
Physical Description:
1.1 Linear feet
Subseries Scope and Content Summary
This series contains 16 x 20'' original artworks assembled in sketchbooks. Select artworks include accompanying color swatches
or notes.
Subseries Arrangement
This subseries is arranged alphabetically.
Box 2, Folder 2
Circus Metamorphosis
undated
Box 2, Folder 1-4, Box 3, Folder 1-5
Unidentified productions
undated
Unbound artworks Subseries 3.3
1993 and undated
Physical Description:
1.1 Linear feet
Subseries Scope and Content Summary
This subseries contains 16 x 20'' original and reproduced artworks of Bernard Johnson and George R. Beregeron. Artworks include
metamorphic, gothic, and ballet themes with accompanying fabric swatches and notes.
Subseries Arrangement
This subseries is arranged alphabetically.
Box 5, Folder 3
Le Jaz Hot - All that Jazz
undated
Box 5, Folder 1-5, Box 4, Folder 1-6
Unidentified productions
1993 and undated
Box 6, Folder 1-5
Video recordings Series 4.
1990-1995, undated
Physical Description:
0.1 Linear feet
Access
Access to original video recordings is restricted; researchers may request use copies.
Series Scope and Content Summary
This series consists of video recordings documenting select performances and educational events in which Johnson participated,
primarily at the American Dance Festival.
Box 8, Folder 4-8, Box 6, Folder 6-10
Clippings Series 5.
1957-1993 and undated
Physical Description:
2.1 Linear feet
Series Scope and Content Summary
This series contains clippings from newspapers and magazines documenting Johnson’s professional and personal life. Clippings
include critic reviews, fashion and entertainment news, students' achievements, biographies, and obituaries.
The bulk of the series is comprised of critical reviews of Johnson's theatrical work as a dancer, costume designer, or director.
Reviews of
American Dance Festival,
Ballet Hispanico,
Bubbling Brown Sugar,
The Copa Girls,
Daddy Goodman,
Eubie,
Negro Ballet,
New Jack City,
Sophisticated Ladies, and other productions are included. Select clippings have accompanying photographs and resumes.
Clippings were taken from a number of regional, national, and international publications, including
Ebony,
Los Angeles Times,
New York Times,
Variety,
The Irvine World News, and others.
Theatrical printed ephemera Series 6.
1973-1996, undated
Physical Description:
0.8 Linear feet
Series Scope and Content Summary
This series contains periodicals, playbills, fliers, and programs documenting theatrical productions, academic programs, and
events that Johnson was involved with throughout his career as a costume designer, director, and teacher. Ephemera from
After & Hours,
The Black Filmmakers Hall of Fame 1977,
The Copa Girls,
Harold & Nicholas,
Helen,
Raisins, and other productions is included. Performances were produced by the American Dance Festival (ADF), the UCI Dance Department,
Moorpark College, California State University Los Angeles, California State University Long Beach, First Union Methodist Church,
and the Palm Springs Desert Museum. Select ephemera contains interfiled correspondence or reproductions of Johnson's artistic
works.
Series Arrangement
This series is arranged alphabetically.
Box 6, Folder 11
Periodicals of
Black Stars,
Footlights,
Focus, and other publications
1974-1982, 1996 and undated
Box 6, Folder 12-15
Playbills and fliers of
Bubbling Brown Sugar, Black Fashion Museum,
The Copa Girls,
Daddy Goodness,
Don't Play Us Cheap,
Eubie,
Raisins, UCI Dance productions, and other theatrical productions
1969-1996 and undated
Box 7, Folder 1-2
Programs of
Black Filmmakers Hall of Fame 1976,
Raisin,`
The Royal Ballet, international productions, and other productions
1973-1980, 1990-1996 and undated
Box 7, Folder 3-5
UC Irvine Series 7.
1991-1995, undated
Physical Description:
0.25 Linear feet
Series Scope and Content Summary
This series contains ephemera and event planning records dating from Johnson's tenure as the assistant professor of costume
design at UC Irvine from 1991-1997. Records include musical compositions, blueprints, memos, schedules, correspondence, contracts,
evaluation forms, fliers, receipts, and other material. Productions documented include
Fiesta Fantastica,
New Slate,
Strutin,
Metamorphis,
Caribe,
Carribean,
Down in Honkey Tonk Town, and
Juke Joint. Materials also document the organization of dance symposia and other events with which Johnson was involved.
Series Arrangement
This series is arranged alphabetically.
Box 7, Folder 3
Playbills, receipts, correspondence, clippings, and other material
1991-1994 and undated
Box 7, Folder 4
Contracts, schedules, correspondence, and other material regarding a dance symposium
1992-1995
Box 7, Folder 5
Musical composition, contact sheet, and correspondence relating to the
Juke Joint production
1993
Box 8, Folder 9
Reproductions of blueprints and memos
undated
