Scope and Content
Related materials in the Huntington Library
Title: Jay T. Last Collection of Fashion Prints
Dates (inclusive): approximately 1577-1943
Bulk dates: 1825-1900
Collection Number: priJLC_FASH
Last, Jay T.
approximately 6,900 items
The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens.
Prints and Ephemera
1151 Oxford Road
San Marino, California 91108
Abstract: The Jay T. Last Collection of Fashion Prints and Ephemera
contains approximately 6,900 items dating from the 1570s to the 1940s, with the bulk
of the items spanning from 1825 to 1900. This collection consists of fashion plates,
advertising prints, broadsides, and promotional ephemera produced for clothiers and
tailors, dry goods suppliers, garment manufacturers, fashion publications, and
textile companies affiliated with the design, production, and/or sale of clothing,
accessories, and dry goods. While most of the materials are American, there are also
notable quantities of foreign items in the collection, including French fashion
plates and foreign textile labels.
Language: English and French
Finding aid last updated on March 20,
The collection is open to qualified researchers by prior application through the
Reader Services Department. For more information, please visit the Huntington's
In order to quote from, publish, or reproduce any of the visual materials,
researchers must obtain formal permission from the office of the Library
Director. Permission for publication is given on behalf of the Huntington as the
owner of the physical items and is not intended to include or imply permission
of the copyright holder, which must also be obtained.
[Item title, Call number]. Jay T. Last Collection of Fashion Prints and Ephemera,
The Huntington Library, San Marino, California.
This collection forms part of the Jay T. Last Collection of Lithographic and
Social History, which was donated to the Huntington Library by Jay T. Last in
2005 as a gift in progress. The bulk of the
Fashion Prints and Ephemera were transferred to the Library between 2010 and 2013.
The Jay T. Last Collection is an unparalleled archive of printed paper artifacts
that documents American lithographic, social, and business history. The
collection began in the early 1970s when physicist and Silicon Valley pioneer
Jay Last moved to Southern California and started collecting citrus box labels
he found at local flea markets and rummage sales. As his collection grew, Last
realized that these labels conveyed important information about commercial
printing, graphic design, and social history, and he expanded his collection to
include other forms of American visual culture. Today this collection contains
more than 185,000 lithographic prints, posters, and ephemera of mostly
nineteenth- and early twentieth- century American origin and represents works by
more than five hundred lithographic companies.
Scope and Content
The Jay T. Last Collection of Fashion Prints and Ephemera contains approximately
6,900 items dating from the 1570s to the early 1900s, with the bulk of the items
spanning from 1825 to 1900. This collection consists of fashion plates, advertising
prints, broadsides, and promotional ephemera produced for clothiers and tailors, dry
goods suppliers, garment manufacturers, fashion publications, and textile companies
affiliated with the design, production, and/or sale of clothing, accessories, and
dry goods. While most of the materials are American, there are also notable
quantities of foreign items in the collection, including French fashion plates, fez
labels in several languages, and foreign textile labels.
Materials are broadly divided into two series: small-size items (11 x 14 inches or
smaller) and large-size items (typically larger than 11 x 14 inches). This finding
aid describes small materials broadly at the series level, with selected individual
items digitized; large materials are fully inventoried and all printers, artists,
and publishers are indexed. The collection includes 223 large-size items comprised
mainly of lithographic advertising prints and fashion plates. Small-size items
number approximately 6,650 and contain a variety of promotional materials including
trade cards, calendars, booklets, product labels, fashion plates, periodicals,
clippings, and printed billheads and letterheads with manuscript text. Each series
is divided into subseries according to the kind of business, service, or trade
sponsoring the advertisement. Types of businesses have been identified according to
the principal type of product(s) manufactured or sold by the business. These
subseries are arranged as follows: Accessories; Clothiers, Tailors, and Dry Goods;
Fashion Plates And Periodicals; Footwear; Garments; Headwear; Sewing Supplies; and
This collection contains many American and European printed illustrations, commonly
known as “fashion plates,” that typically depict men, women, or children modeling
current clothing and dress styles. Small plates (usually 14 x 10 inches or less in
this collection) illustrated the pages of magazines and bound volumes that were
marketed specifically for women. Larger plates, primarily intended for display,
advertised the products and services of fashion designers, tailors, and pattern
The collection provides a resource for studying clothing and dress, sales and
merchandise, textiles, and sewing, as well as changing fashion trends in the United
States and Europe in the 19th century. The images are primarily promotional in
nature and provide information about the history of the American fashion, clothing,
dry-goods, and textile industries and the evolution of their advertising strategies
in the 19th and early 20th centuries. As graphic materials, the prints offer
evidence of developing techniques and trends in printmaking, and of the artists,
engravers, lithographers, printers, and publishers involved in the creative
Alternative Form of Materials Available
Related materials in the Huntington Library
The Huntington Library Rare Books Collection contains one related item (Call number:
66643) that is listed in the "Related Materials" section in Series I, Subseries C in
this finding aid.
The Huntington Library Historical Prints Collection contains one related item
(priHHC_FASH_0000014) that is listed in the "Related Materials" section at the
beginning of Series II, Subseries B in this finding aid.
The collection is arranged in the following series and subseries:
Series I. Fashion Prints and Ephemera (small size)
- Subseries A. Accessories (small size)
- Subseries B. Clothiers, Tailors, and Dry Goods (small size)
- Subseries C. Fashion Plates and Periodicals (small size)
- Subseries D. Footwear (small size)
- Subseries E. Garments (small size)
- Subseries F. Headwear (small size)
- Subseries G. Sewing Supplies (small size)
- Subseries H. Textiles (small size)
Series II. Fashion Prints and Ephemera (large size)
- Subseries A. Accessories (large size)
- Subseries B. Clothiers, Tailors, and Dry Goods (large size)
- Subseries C. Fashion Plates and Periodicals (large size)
- Subseries D. Footwear (large size)
- Subseries E. Garments (large size)
- Subseries F. Headwear (large size)
- Subseries G. Sewing Supplies (large size)
- Subseries H. Textiles (large size)
Within each subseries, items are arranged numerically by call number and described in
the following format:
Title of print. Date
- Artist(s) (when known). Printer(s). Publisher(s).
Business records -- United States --
Business records -- United States --
Leaflets (printed works).
Subjects and Indexing Terms
Advertising -- Clothing and
Advertising -- Fashion.
Children's clothing -- Pictorial
Children's shoes -- Pictorial
Clothing and dress -- Pictorial
Commerce -- Pictorial works.
Corsets -- Pictorial works.
Dress accessories -- Pictorial works.
Dresses -- Pictorial works.
Dressmaking -- Patterns
Fashion -- Pictorial works.
Fur garments -- Pictorial
Hats -- Pictorial works.
Men's clothing -- Pictorial
Military uniforms -- Pictorial works.
Rubber industry and trade.
Shoes -- Pictorial works.
Storefronts -- Pictorial
Umbrellas - Pictorial works.
Women's clothing -- Pictorial
Printer, Publisher, Artist Index
The following is a complete list of printers, publishers, and artists represented
in the large-size items in this collection.
A. Brett & Co.
A.E. Baker’s Lithog’hy.
Ackermann, Emil F., 1840-
Augte. Godchaux & Cie.
B.W. Thayer & Co.
Baillie, James S., fl.
Baker & Godwin.
Baker, Godwin & Co.
Baker, Joseph E., approximately
Beard, Albin, 1808-1862.
Bufford, John Henry,
C.L. Crapper & Bro.
Calvert Lithographing Co. (Detroit,
Cameron, John, approximately
Capewell & Kimmel
Cosine, W. S.
Crawford, C. G.
Croker, H., Jr.
Duval & Hunter.
E. Wells Sackett &
Elite Styles Company.
Elsas Paper Co.
Farwell, F. F.
Ferd. Mayer & Sons.
Forbes Lithograph Manufacturing
Frazer & Denis.
G.W. & W.H. Dobbins.
Geo. H. Walker & Co.
Gilquin Fils. Imp.
Grant & Co.
Gray Lith. Co.
Gray, L. (Lithographer)
Harper & Brothers.
Harris, George S.
Hatch & Co.
Heffron & Phelps.
Heppenheimer & Maurer.
Holland, A. (Printer)
J. Ottman Lithographic
J.C. Kneeland & Co.
J.H. Bufford's Lith.
J.J. Little & Co.
Julius Bien & Co.
Ketterlinus Lithographic Manufacturing
King & Baird.
Lindner, Eddy & Clauss.
Major & Knapp Engraving,
Manufacturing & Lithographic Co.
Major, Knapp & Co.
Mayer, Merkel &
Michelin, Francis, 1809 or
Morse, W.J. (Willis J.)
New York Times Company.
Noel, Laure, 1827-1878.
O.H. Bailey & Co.
Oliver, John Wise,
P.S. Duval & Co.
Pictorial Advertising Co.
Pictorial Printing Co.
Rau, J., approximately
Rease, W. H.
Rogowski & Co.
S.T. Taylor Co.
Sackett & Wilhelms Litho. &
Sackett, Wilhelms &
Seringe Freres (Firm)
Shober & Carqueville.
Stahl & Jaeger.
Tappan & Bradford.
Times Print (Cincinnati,
Toudouze, Anaïs Colin,
Van Ingen, William H., approximately
W.H.H. Rogers & Co.
Wagner & M'Guigan.
Ward & Biddulph.
Wex & Irish.